Jeep Strokers

My jeep must pass a emissions test in a Dynamometer at any rpm. If the power is 30% higher than stock engine, it must do special study of chassis resistance.
that is, a lot of problems and a lot of money.

Rig the bypass valve stuck open for the test.

I have a solution to the pump, PSC has a stock style pump with the fitting I need for around $180. It is a rebuilt (or new, didn't ask). I though about tapping the input for the fitting myself, but I would need a) a used pump, b) the seal kit. By that time I am around $70, and I can't find a rebuild kit so I would still have a used pump with new seals. I would probably also have to purchase the correct tap for it as I haven't seen one that size NPT at the machine shop.

Friday I talked to a welder that is certain he can weld the plate to the manifold. I was planning on welding a 3/8" plate like the rest then milling it flat. He was concerned that the warpage from welding would more than I expect so I he wants to use a 1/2" piece of aluminum. The other guy that I was waiting to call me was supposed to be some kind of welding expert... he didn't even have a TIG setup and recommended that I JB WELD the plate to the manifold. Some expert.

In other news the BMW AOS looks like it is working well. I won't know how well until I drain my original AOS and see if anything comes out of that. I also installed the Fringe XVO modified valve body today. It was too late to play musical cars and cargo by the time I was finished with the install and a few other things I needed to do. An impression will have wait until later this week.

Between work, other projects and other delays work on the MP90 has been quite slow. I have done some work on the supercharger itself and acquired some parts.

Since I had to take apart the MP90 to install the pulley I decided to do some work on it. A bit of clean up work on the intake. The casting has some imperfections which I smoothed out along with the casting grain. I also just smoothed out any sharp edges on the exhaust.



I'm debating opening up the intake more along the lines of this, but I am unsure:


Stock pulley pressed off and modular pulley hub pressed on.


Pulley installed:


A few sensors (EGT, Boost/vac, IAT)


EGT probe will be placed off the #6 cylinder which tends to run the hottest. The IAT probe will be interfaced with the Arduino-multi gauge and take the vacuum display place. Just need to decide on an R1 resistor for the voltage divider, write the code and wire it up.

I didn't want many gauges on the A pillar so I went with a gauge that encompassed several features and had a stock look to it. Backlight is green to match the stock lighting. Custom McNally EGT, vac and boost gauge with A pillar mount.:

since you have (or had) it all apart, and smoothed out everything, do you think there could be any gains or improvements to be made by flaring or creating a bowl into that butterfly or am i overthinking this all?

Its still apart. I'm debating if I want to take it further like that one pic. I don't think there is any gains to be had by flaring the bypass valve opening. That is only open out of boost. It just recirculates the air.

oh thats not what i thought it was then

An update. The intake has been cut.

After a quick sandblasting clean up:


As I mentioned earlier taking the top off at an angle and welding a plate to it will restrict #3 and #4 intake runners if left unmodified. The side wall and bottom wall will need to be cut.

Unmodified side:




Modified side, not even close do being where I want it:


Also, once the plate is welded on I will need to go into the intake runner and open it up a bit where the plate seals against the runner.




Its rough now and needs a lot of clean up before being welded up. Many hand grinding hours are anticipated.

amcinstaller wrote:oh thats not what i thought it was then

This is a neat video of how the bypass valve works. Its a twin screw super charger with an inter cooler but about 1/2 ay through they give a close up of the throttle body and bypass valve... one opens and the other one closes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKViNCZhIqc

does that gauge fit perfect on your a pillar i was looking for a nice stock looking one

I hadn't gotten to checking the fit yet, but I just did now. Not real happy:



Thats just fitting loosely, but even with some pressure on it its not much better:



I could try to make it fit better with a heat gun though.

you can always fiberglass it and give it more of a molded look but then the only problem is matching the color

thanks for the vid. i know how it all works together, i just havent been around too many sc's, let alone ones that are apart. you mention the runners for 3 and 4, but im wondering what runners you are referring to, doesnt look like theres much runner left for 3 and 4 looks good so far, im anxious to see it running now!

vashxj wrote:you can always fiberglass it and give it more of a molded look but then the only problem is matching the color

Yeah, I could do that. But right now I don't feel like messing with fiberglass. I may go with one of these. http://www.vumaxx.com/

amcinstaller wrote:thanks for the vid. i know how it all works together, i just havent been around too many sc's, let alone ones that are apart. you mention the runners for 3 and 4, but im wondering what runners you are referring to, doesnt look like theres much runner left for 3 and 4 looks good so far, im anxious to see it running now!

LOL. Running the SC is still a long way off, especially the way work has been going recently. Runner #3 and #4 are still 5.5" long.

SilverXJ wrote:

LOL. Running the SC is still a long way off, especially the way work has been going recently. Runner #3 and #4 are still 5.5" long.[/quote]

And what are the runner lengths of runner #2 and #5 and runner #1 and #6?