Jeep Strokers

They're worried about compromising the top of the piston - which is a legitimate concern, assuming that these guys haven't inspected one.

Ok, pistons should be back by Friday, with a 20cc dish.


Now I'm trying to decide between the 68-115-4 (as called for in the mini recipe), or the 68-231-4 (noted in the FAQ). Stock exhaust and TB. Looking for as much performance as I can get for a reliable daily driver with some occasional mild off-road and towing duty.


EDIT: Ok, now reading that the 231 is too much lift for stock springs.

Spoke with Jones today. It looks like there are two options - regrind my stock cam or possibly grinding a blank. I'm trying to retain the thrust plate (for my peace of mind, if nothing else) AND use a Cloyes double roller, without making any other modifications. Still not sure if that's possible, but it doesn't seem like it. I'll probably have to use the stock timing set if I want to use the thrust plate. If that's the case, I may just stick with the stock cam. I need to give him the rocker ratio (1.6?) and he'll be able to tell me if I'll need longer pushrods. And I'm not sure if those are readily available. PM me for pricing. He's still not sure if a blank is available for this model.

Also spoke with the machine shop. They're almost done, but he seems to be having trouble finding the moly rings. Also, he can't find the right rod bolts.

The stock rocker ratio is 1.6:1. Longer pushrods are readily available from several sources. I like Smith Brothers (pushrods.net).

The machine shop can't find the correct rods, moly rings or the right bolts? Seriously? The sealed power part number is E-234K in what ever over size you need. ARP rod bolts are 112-6001 or 146-6001

Knoxes wrote:Spoke with Jones today. It looks like there are two options - regrind my stock cam or possibly grinding a blank. I'm trying to retain the thrust plate (for my peace of mind, if nothing else) AND use a Cloyes double roller, without making any other modifications. Still not sure if that's possible, but it doesn't seem like it. I'll probably have to use the stock timing set if I want to use the thrust plate. If that's the case, I may just stick with the stock cam. I need to give him the rocker ratio (1.6?) and he'll be able to tell me if I'll need longer pushrods. And I'm not sure if those are readily available. PM me for pricing. He's still not sure if a blank is available for this model.

Also spoke with the machine shop. They're almost done, but he seems to be having trouble finding the moly rings. Also, he can't find the right rod bolts.

A double roller timing chain is not available for the later model camshaft (thrust plate). I wouldn't use a stock timing chain with heavier valve springs, just because of the stock timing chain failures I have seen with heavier spring pressures.

Trend also makes pushrods. The one feature I like about Trend over Smith brothers is Trend pushrods can be ordered in .025 length increments, where Smith Brothers are .050 increments. Both companies make great pushrods and are comparable in price.

this may have been asked but i'm too lazy to go back and check.....why not just put a v8 in? the 4.7's not a complete dog and comes stock in wj's

SilverXJ wrote:The stock rocker ratio is 1.6:1. Longer pushrods are readily available from several sources. I like Smith Brothers (pushrods.net).

The machine shop can't find the correct rods, moly rings or the right bolts? Seriously? The sealed power part number is E-234K in what ever over size you need. ARP rod bolts are 112-6001 or 146-6001

Sorry, I take most of that back. He couldn't find the right torque for the stock rod bolts. I think he did have trouble finding the right rings, but I think he's resolved that. Told him I wanted to get ARP's for the rods and he said the torque specs would come with the bolts. Stock rod bolts for a 2003 should be the 146-6001, right?

The really frustrating part of this build is that all 3 of the machine shops that I've visiting, including the one that I'm using, seem baffled by the idea of a 4.0 stroker engine. It's like we're speaking different languages. I know that two of these shops have been around for a long time, and the one I'm using has a great reputation.

A double roller timing chain is not available for the later model camshaft (thrust plate). I wouldn't use a stock timing chain with heavier valve springs, just because of the stock timing chain failures I have seen with heavier spring pressures.

Yeah, the thrust plate/double roller issue...

Using stock springs, and I'm leaning toward the stock cam, unless Jones can find a blank with the later model snout.

shawnxj wrote:this may have been asked but i'm too lazy to go back and check.....why not just put a v8 in? the 4.7's not a complete dog and comes stock in wj's

I'm not sure why my build, as opposed to any other, would warrant this question. Is it because I'm building a mini?

Regardless, I expect to get out for under $1200. I don't think I could do a 4.7 swap for that kind of money. Also, ancillary reasons - the stock 4.0 was just a bit tired. I have a 4.7 HO already, and the stroker will be for my 16 year old. I would have settled for a fresh stock rebuild, but thought this wouldn't be much more difficult. Also, I don't have much interest in storing or trying to dispose of excess parts, especially a long block.

only reason i ask is because yours is a wj compared to everybody else who didn't have a v8 as a factory option. different strokes for different folks i guess....and good luck getting out under $1200. i thought i could get out cheap even with all the horse trading i did and still ended up over 3k

Knoxes wrote: Sorry, I take most of that back. He couldn't find the right torque for the stock rod bolts. I think he did have trouble finding the right rings, but I think he's resolved that. Told him I wanted to get ARP's for the rods and he said the torque specs would come with the bolts. Stock rod bolts for a 2003 should be the 146-6001, right?

Stock torque is 33 ft lbs. The ARP isn't a stock bolt, but it replaces a stock bolt. It looks like they may have changed their part numbers, that is why there is two. Your rods must also be resized when the new bolts are installed. Unless it has changed the ARPs torque to 40 ft lbs w/ their lube.

The really frustrating part of this build is that all 3 of the machine shops that I've visiting, including the one that I'm using, seem baffled by the idea of a 4.0 stroker engine. It's like we're speaking different languages. I know that two of these shops have been around for a long time, and the one I'm using has a great reputation.

I guess its not a chevy engine.. lol.. surprisingly as backwards and screwed up as the machine shop I used they knew what a 4.6L stroker is.

Knoxes wrote: unless Jones can find a blank with the later model snout.

If he can't find it tell him its the same one used on invoice #4286

shawnxj wrote:only reason i ask is because yours is a wj compared to everybody else who didn't have a v8 as a factory option. different strokes for different folks i guess....and good luck getting out under $1200. i thought i could get out cheap even with all the horse trading i did and still ended up over 3k

Yeah, great point - I hadn't considered that. I wonder if there's a WJ 4.7 swap forum out there looking for me...

$1200 is probably out of reach - you're right.

just did a swap for a friend and it was pretty easy. biggest thing to make sure of is that you get the right harness to match the body and computer. everything else is cake

actually you need to be very picky about the harness. make damn sure you get the harness for your year vehicle. they changed a few plugs every year to make things difficult. other then that you can get whatever year motor and computer you find cheap the only thing that's different are the harnesses

Ok, almost 100% certain that I'm going with the stock cam. Jones says the minimum lobe they can do is about 446 - and they want to do 472-480 to get some power out of it. That's too much for the stock springs, I think. And new springs, retainers and keepers are about $270. So, with the custom cam cost, I'm looking at around 500 and I'll run the risk of losing the timing set.

It seems like the smart thing to do here is accept the fact that I'm not going to get 240 hp and 300 ft/lbs with this build.