Jeep Strokers

Is your thrust cap on facing the correct direction?

Also it is not really a feeler gage measurement. It should be measured using a dial indicator. You are measuring the total movement forward to rear and back again. Depending on it's happy place you may not be able to get a feeler gage in it. I highly recommend checking it the correct way with your drop dial before you mess with the bearings. Use a prybar between the counterweight cheek and a bearing cap to move the crank and avoid indicator the indicator bounce of a dead blow. The hammer is just for setting the cap before you torque it. I think there's a pic of how to set it up on my build.

honestly i'm not sure....you tell me

so after going through silverxj's build thread it appears as though i have the caps on right

talked to my machinist today and he told me i shouldn't be using arp ultra-torque on anything other then arp bolts. wouldn't the ultra-torque help keep all the mains and head bolts consistent? he told me to use a light coat of 30w oil

ok set my dial indicator up and it's reading about .004 endplay. so why would the dial indicator read .004 when the .002 feeler gauge won't fit?

gonridnu wrote:Also it is not really a feeler gage measurement. It should be measured using a dial indicator.

X2

Depending on it's happy place you may not be able to get a feeler gage in it.

This is why you can't get a feeler gauge in.

Your caps look like they are pointing the correct direction, are they in the correct order though? Can you spin the crank over by hand?

crank spins nice and smooth and they're all numbered 1 thru 7

shawnxj wrote:talked to my machinist today and he told me i shouldn't be using arp ultra-torque on anything other then arp bolts. wouldn't the ultra-torque help keep all the mains and head bolts consistent? he told me to use a light coat of 30w oil

That is correct. Wire wheel the threads and apply 30W on them and under the bolt head. Ultra torque has a lower friction coefficient and will over stretch the factory bolts. You're probably ok right now because they haven't been cycled. If they stretched beyond yield you will see a reduced thread diameter in the first couple three threads from where they start on the shank.

shawnxj wrote:ok set my dial indicator up and it's reading about .004 endplay. so why would the dial indicator read .004 when the .002 feeler gauge won't fit?

Because...LOL

gonridnu wrote:That is correct. Wire wheel the threads and apply 30W on them and under the bolt head. Ultra torque has a lower friction coefficient and will over stretch the factory bolts.

x2 As well as use the ARP lube sparingly and wipe off excess. I have heard that it has abrasive qualities to it.

make sure the arrow on the caps is pointing forward.

got the lower end assembled today and went to stab the cam in and almost pushed it out the back of the block. any particular reason why the machinist would install all but the cam freeze plug? so how deep do i install the cam freeze plug?

Pretty much same as a freeze plug. The hole it gets installed into is chamfered to aid in installation and then turns into a straight machined hole. Install the plug just deep enough to where there is a a very small amount of the straight machined hole showing. Maybe something in the neighborhood of .050" -.075" +/-. It is most important to get it to seal so use a good sealer on the plug such as Permatex Aviation Form a Gasket. The cam does not ride against this plug so it's depth is not important.

It is some what important... don't install it too deep or the cam will ride against it. You don't want that. The cam plug is shallower than the other plugs.

thanks guys. hey silver where did you get your cam pin from? you build thread doesn't say and i'm going to need 1 soon

Its just a roller from a roller style bearing.