sudo chop's 4.6

[amcinstaller]

the part about the wings being in the top kinda confused me, i was thinking the block was the top. if you got that seal and all to sit in there with wings, youre a champion! (dont mean that to be as mean as it sounds/reads) i just didnt see how. but i see what you mean now. and yea, a bit of rtv on the wings will help it seal, and be careful with the rear area of the pan gasket. i pinched mine while doing a RMS replace on my 92 kee and it acted like a RMS leak but faster but thats what you get for being in a hurry

[banipal19]

I got King main and rod bearings and they are exactly like stock 4.0 ones (with oiling holes).

[sudo chop]

Well I took some pictures...


Here you can see what I was saying about the seal wings not sitting down in there. But after removing the cap I quickly figured out that it was from me putting RTV between the two halves of the seal, so there was RTV under there in its way. Now I need to go get a new oil pan gasket since I decided to cut on that one...



Here we have a new issue though:



Not only do I not have the right bearings to squirt oil through these holes, but the holes are facing the wrong way. I think I could just turn them around but then the piston would obviously be 180* the other way. So, I see three options, and I need help deciding which.

1) The pistons need to stay where they are but the oil squirters aren't a big deal, so just leave it.

2) The oil squirters are a big deal and it's ok to spin the pistons 180*, so buy new bearings and spin it.

3) The oil squirters are a big deal, and you can't spin the pistons. Disassemble everything, throw away that $30 head gasket and get the pistons put on there the right way, and buy new bearings.

I am intrigued by option 2 since I have heard about spinning the stock pistons around, with good effects, and aren't the H802CPs stock replacement pistons? The only difference I see will be the quench, it seems like the turbulence would make a kind of figure 8 shape. Also, the combustion chamber (counting the piston dish as well) would be oddly shaped with two large pockets of mixture joined by a smaller area, I wonder how this would affect the flame front and other things I don't understand that well.

[SilverXJ]

Why did you cut the oil pan gasket?

I don't know if they are that big of a deal. I don't think Hesco uses them as they use Clevite bearings w/o the hole. However, you can turn the piston around, but they will most likely be noiser as the pin is off set. I have no idea how this would reduce longevity if any. It might give you a bit more power, but then also the piston quench pad wouldn't line up with the head pad. Then I am also not sure if it would effect ptv clearance.

[sudo chop]

Because the oil pan gasket would not sit down in the groove on account of the raised wings in the seal, I cut little notches in the oil pan gasket to sit around the wings and sealed it up with RTV.

PTV clearance is a good concern to raise. And I think if clevite has decided for whatever reason not to put holes in there, and even further Hesco is good with that, well then I am good with that.

[sudo chop]

I fixed the RMS, put the oil pan on, and filled it up with rotella. When turning the pump I only get a little oil flow from the pushrods, I'm not sure if this is normal since this is my first experience with this, but I kind of expected the oil to squirt out with some force, but rather they just sort of flow. I indexed the distributor again and ground one of the ears a bit since it wasn't quite where it needed to be. So, if the rotor is a little more clockwise (or the housing counterclockwise) does that mean my timing will be advanced? Thats just a hypothetical, right now its spot on.

I ordered some brown dog mounts and as soon as they get here its going in. In the mean time I need to get the fuel rail on, and right now the old injectors are being a huge pain. I also need to get the last coat of paint on this valve cover, and get the throttle body on, not to mention sending the other one off to be bored. Also still need to get on some spark plugs! I think I will email NGK this very moment.

When I hit the parts house a few weeks ago to buy assembly lube and a WP and cap&rotor etc, I asked the guy if they had and ZDDP additive and he sold me on this Hyper-lube ZRA. Am I good to put this in my motor? The numbers they have on that site seem promising.

I am trying to move into a house when my lease here at the apartment expires on the 17th, which also means the Jeep needs to drive away, so hopefully that happens.

[yuppiexj]

I indexed the distributor again and ground one of the ears a bit since it wasn't quite where it needed to be. So, if the rotor is a little more clockwise (or the housing counterclockwise) does that mean my timing will be advanced?

Your timing will not be advanced. the timing is set by the ECU via inputs from the the crankshaft position sensor.
The indexing is to make sure when a spark is triggered the rotor is near the spark plug terminal in the distributor cap.

[sudo chop]

Your timing will not be advanced. the timing is set by the ECU via inputs from the the crankshaft position sensor.
The indexing is to make sure when a spark is triggered the rotor is near the spark plug terminal in the distributor cap.

Gotcha. I guess that's why the contact area on the rotor is so large... But then, if the distributor body is rotated wouldn't that also change the input of the position sensor inside?

Anyway, hasn't anybody got anything to tell me about this ZRA i have before I put it in?

NGK recommended a heat range colder for me as well which is ZFR6F-11 stock# 4291

It's ready to go! Just waiting on those mounts now.

[4.whoa]

Looks spiffy

sorry,don't know about the ZRA.
I suspect that degreeing the cam may be why the ears need cutting at times

[sudo chop]

Looks spiffy

sorry,don't know about the ZRA.
I suspect that degreeing the cam may be why the ears need cutting at times

Thanks, the valve cover paint turned out crappy, but you can't tell here. I think it's because it was too cold when I was painting, even though I warmed up the VC and the paint beforehand. But it's whatever.

I always suspected the dizzy not lining up was about the aftermarket cam manufacturer not caring about the placement of the teeth in the gear for it to line up like OEM.

I forgot I had reserve duty this weekend so I didn't do anything more with it. Throughout this week though I pan to get the jeep ready for the motor. Gonna do some cleaning in the bay and some putting back together of things I have taken apart since I took out the engine. I also have to buy new coolant hoses, the old heaters hoses are impossible to remove!

[sudo chop]

Finally finished installing today and it started up beautifully! I was actually surprised I didn't run into any trouble getting it started.

The party stopped though when I tried to do the cam break-in and figured out that it wouldn't rev up. It stalls pretty bad at about 2k, but even at lower rpms with just a very small amount of throttle it sorts of stalls. At this point I am pretty sure the injectors are just way too big. Should've listened to Silver. I think I'll put my stockers in sometime this week, maybe tomorrow, and see what happens with those.

Video

[SilverXJ]

I am not sure injectors would cause that. They would have to be very large. Did you double check your distributor indexing?

Oh yeah. And don't idle it or drive it anymore until you have the cam broken in.

[sudo chop]

I am not sure injectors would cause that. They would have to be very large. Did you double check your distributor indexing?

Well, I made sure the indexing was perfect during assembly and I haven't touched it. It wouldn't idle as well if its timing was off, right? I forgot to mention that I don't have any O2 even plugged in as I don't have any exhaust at all. It also acts a little weird when it is starting, it's not that it turns and turns until it starts, it actually wont start if you just let it turn over and over, It's like I have to give it a few short tries and then it will fire. I will still try the stock injectors jsut for the sake of trying something. Posting this problem here and in a separate trouble thread is less beneficial than I had hoped, I am having to duplicate... After I put the stock injectors in I will probably just bolt a foot long 3" pipe on the exhaust with a bung for the no 1 O2 sensor, and probably one for wbo2 just for the sake of seeing it for myself if I am still having trouble.

Oh yeah. And don't idle it or drive it anymore until you have the cam broken in.

I don't plan on it. I just need a fix to be able to break it in... And then get it to the exhaust shop, and then register it, and then put wbo2 on it.

[4.whoa]

I'm not sure about obdII but obd I is fine w/o o2 sensor hooked up. Just has cel on. Hold throttle part way open and it fires right up.

[yuppiexj]

Did you plug in the cam sensor (the thing in the distributor)?
Mine had the exact same symptoms due to a disconnected sensor.
It would idle just fine, but any throttle and it would spit and sputter down to a happy idle.