Jeep Strokers

YJ_and_Corey wrote:I don't build strokers with 4.2L rods anymore, and neither should anyone else. Using 4.0L rods and KB (or my up and coming new pistons) offerings makes it (quench) a non-issue these days.

I'll agree with you there but bear in mind that most of us built our budget strokers with 4.2L rods and cheap aftermarket 4.0L pistons many years ago when you could only get $600+ custom forged pistons to go with the 4.0L rods. It would be fair to say that there's NO NEED to build a stroker with 4.2L rods anymore since KB introduced their stroker pistons for the 4.0L rods.

YJ_and_Corey wrote:The entire stroker community, with the exception of several individuals present, realize that your stroker formulas are garbage.

I'll let the members of this stroker community judge for themselves.

YJ_and_Corey wrote: ---------

Yes, tight quench is best - ....

So why is quench the "be-all and end-all" in a 4.0L again?

If it's best, why should anybody with the money and desire to have a tight quench not do it then? Why not put every chance of a ping-free engine on my side? What's wrong with shaving a block?

Ok, WTF, is there no thread on this website that hasnt turned into a "Quench" argument? Seriously...... this thread is titled "lifter preload" and some how, some of have migrated to whether or not quench is important. Title a new thread "Quench", take the keyboard-battle there, and lets get back to posting the proper methods of lifter preloading.
-Will

Ok then. Lifter preload, from my web-knowledge, turkey farming and armchair building is supposed to be between 0.020" and 0.060" from zero-lash. Proper way to check it is with a dial indicator, not feeler gauges. If you set preload correctly, you don't have any chance of pushrods bottoming out in the lifters, so I don't see the point of checking free play in the lifters with feeler gauges.

With both valves closed and no load on the pushrod, you bolt down the rocker until zero-lash, that is no vertical movement on the pushrod and it still spins freely. You mark the pushrod at that point, or set dial indicator to zero. Then you torque the rocker to the proper value and either mark the pushrod again and measure distance between the two marks, or read your dial indicator. You need to be between 0.020 and 0.060". Ideally, something close to 0.025"- 0.030".

With an adjustable rocker, you torque down the rocker, turn the adjuster until zero lash, then tighten 1/2 turn more for Harland Sharp rockers.

So if that method is incorrect, then everybody on the web, including Crane, Harland Sharp and Comp are wrong and one person is correct.