Jeep Strokers

ilber wrote:I recall NAPA used to sell the same baffle, so might worth to stop buy and check with an old timers.
I am not "massaging" anything I know i need spacers from hesco for VC and T-stat or a valve cover ( either option ~$100). I would consider sprinkling for an aluminum vc if i could find one....I though $100 solution was quick and easy, with my luck i am failing on the "quick" part oh well i got time
ilber

If you are using the Mopar Performance valve springs, check your valve spring clearance against the valve cover. You may have to hammer the valve cover a bit, even with the taller valve cover. The springs hit on the side.

whould the hesco spacer allow for sufficient clearance w/o hammering?

I would't think so. The springs hit on the side, so raising the valve cover would just make the springs hit lower on the side of the valve cover. I have read that some have used the aluminum cover without issues, and some have hit. So I'm not sure an aluminum valve cover would work.

Mine hit hardest on front and back springs, but I "clearanced" all of them just to make sure I wasn't chasing some ticking problem after start-up. I read somewhere on here(I think Silver's build) that he only had problems with front and back springs.

It doesn't take much, and on my valve cover, unless I showed someone, I don't think its noticable.
http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/downl ... &mode=view

ok I am convinced...
I will be beating on my valve cover before etching and powder coating

I now have 1700 miles on my stroker. It has had a bit of a rough idle from day one. I didn't think it was the cam...it's not big enough to cause a "lump" at idle, and the engine has always ran smooth a silk running down the highway. So I took into the Jeep dealer to have them check the sync of the cam position sensor with a DRB. It was reading 17. It's suppossed to be 0. So they adjusted the sensor, and the Idle smoothened out. Maybe just a hint of lump in the idle when cold...that may be caused by the cam.

All of my strokers have had a rough idle on cold start. Don't know why though. Probably the cam as you said.

Just an update...I've got 3500 miles on my stroker now. Still running good. The only thing that has me baffled is, now that the weather is colder, my valves make a noise when you first start it up. It only does it in the mornings after sitting all night, and only for a few seconds. I am running VR1, 10w30. It seams like the lifters are bleeding down. My stock 4.0 would do the same thing. I'm not worried about it. It's just annoying.

I call it morning sickness. I've usually had one or two lifters bleed down at night and cause a racked for the first few seconds after start in the morning. I never found a solution.. maybe lifers aren't built as they use to be or the springs are over powering them when they sit. I've heard of changing oil filters (i.e. anti drain back valve) but I always use Mobil one, Napa or Amsoil filters... no place to go but down from those.

I hadn't gotten to he point of experimenting with different oils on my stroker before the fail, but when I do I want to try some lighter weight synthetics.

I also run Mobil1, wix, or Napa gold filters. I might try a synthetic oil next oil change, if I can find one with a high enough zinc to protect the cam.

How much did they charge to use the DRB and adjust the sync? I would really love to get my hands on one of those. . .

The Dealer adjusted it for free.

dwg86 wrote: if I can find one with a high enough zinc to protect the cam.

http://jeep.blackonyx.net/forum/Amsoil_ ... Tappet.pdf

Some info on Amsoil... if interested I'm a dealer.

STROKER UPDATE: I have 4700 miles on my stroker. I got a p0301 code yesterday(misfire #1 cylinder). I don't know why? It always has had a little rough idle when the engine is cold. I'm guessing the cam is causing the rough idle (214 duration @ .050 with 112 lobe centers). I haven't had any problems with any codes until yesterday. Maybe with the colder weather, and taking longer to warm up, it triggered a code. It runs smooth going down the road, pulls hard to 5000 RPM without any misfire, and will still chip the tires going into second gear. When I pulled the plugs @ 3000 miles, there was no signs of fouling. The plugs had a light tan color. I'll drive it a few days and see if the check engine light goes out. If not, I'll check the plugs and reset the computer.

If the misfire persists you might want to swap the #1 injector with another on the rail. See if the misfire follows the injector.

That's what I don't understand, I don't notice a misfire. It runs smooth. I do have a couple extra injectors if I need to ckeck it. Does a misfire code reset itself, or is it hard lached fault, and need to be cleared. I have left my fuel cap off before and got a fault, but after I reinstalled the cap, the check engine light went out. I don't know if a misfire code will do the same???