Jeep Strokers

The problem with heavy weights and deisel oils is the "cure" may be worse than the disease... Trading potential cam and lifter wear for proven increased startup bearing wear, as well as worse fuel economy and a tad less power.

I'm currently running straight M1 in light weights (5w20 and 0w30) with ZDDPlus (popular on Ebay) to bolster their SM rated ZDDP levels and will do a Used Oil analysis and compare it to my previous fills which were all M1 High Mileage... I'm doing this on three jeeps at a time so it should be pretty informative.

If you want a good 10w30 or 10w40 Oil M1 HM is the stuff "on paper" it's the only game in town for normal weight oil with good enough ZDDP until you get to the expensive stuff like Royal Purple XPR ($13 a quart) or boutique oils (Amsoil, Redline) etc.

Scroll down and look for my oil thread titled something like "best oil for the 4.0"... Some interesting discussion in that thread too. here's a link viewtopic.php?f=15&t=330&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

Looking forward to the UOA of M1 with ZDDPlus...I remember reading something about it a while ago but wrote it off. I think I might get a bottle or two. If it isnt that great after all oh well, and if it is then thats great too.

I think 15w40 is a good weight for my climate. Most likely i'll be building this engine over this winter. I will run a low viscosity oil for the break in period in the colder months.

If i decide to stay with the 15w40 with 1250 ppm of zinc, the mopar magnum springs, and a 30ab cam, i don't think i'll need to worry much about lifter wear....

Hope I'm not reviving an old thread but...... I found this "ZDDP Plus" stuff while searching the net. http://www.zddplus.com/ Has anyone heard of it...used it....hate it? Also a little off topic but what assembly lube do you guys recommend? I have a tube of Lubriplate No. 105 "Motor Assembly" and two packets of ARP assembly lube, am I at least in the right ball park?

I use a assembly lube from one of the cam manufactures. Buy it from a local race shop. I use it everywhere except lifter bores and lifter sides, I use motor oil at those points, don't inhibit the early lifter rotation please. Lube the distributor gear, camshaft gear, lifter bottoms and cam lobes liberally, coat all moving parts lightly on assembly. Do not overlook tips of push rods and rocker arm pivots, as well as tips of valve stems.
The price of the additive you mentioned is enough to place it in the snake oil category. Do not know about it's quality, but that is really overpriced. The assembly lubes you have on hand, I would use anywhere but the cam/lifter assembly.
John

Thanks again for the info.

The more I read on this board the more questions I find, I then read to clear that answer and find another two questions...damn I am stuck in a loop.

My you catch on fast to the way things work..... Warning, it gets worse, but remains fun.
John

I know this is reviving a really old thread but I didn't see anyone mention Amsoil's performance 10-40w AMO which is still SL rated, with high levels of zinc phosphate, and specifically made for flat tappet applications like ours. Here's a clip from there website,

Provides Superior Wear Protection
AMSOIL Synthetic 10W-40 Premium Protection Motor Oil is a high viscosity oil engineered to protect against metal-to-metal contact. It resists viscosity shear and is formulated with a heavy treatment of zinc and other anti-wear additives for excellent protection of gears, bearings, cam lobes and other high-pressure components in engines and transmissions. AMSOIL Premium Protection Synthetic Motor Oil helps extend engine life.

Also, Castrol GTX 15w-40 for diesels hasn't been changed over to the new low emission standards for you conventional oil guys. Don't confuse this with their Tection which is a new low emission formula.

I'm running the GTX 15w-40 and Comp Cams break in additive for the break in and first 50 miles, then switching over to the Amsoil AMO thereafter. Couple of things to keep in mind are making sure you have good quality lifters and not to get overboard with you valve spring pressures, you don't need super springs in a low rpm engine. I have the Mopar 30ab cam/lifter package with the mopar performance springs and the spring pressure was way too high. I had a performance shop go through my head with new bore guides, a valve job, and installed the springs. I don't remember the exact pounds of pressure for the springs installed was, but it was well over 200; ended up going with new stock springs which brought me back down to 170 pounds installed. They felt this was more than enough for the cam I am running and spending the majority of its time under 4,500rpm's. So you know, they had my cam to check over while they were doing the machine work; the partner in charge of their performance mods wanted to check it out since he had built a performance 4.0 for his Cherokee.

I took the oil data presented earlier and imported it into an Excel File. I also cleaned it up a bit. This way it can be sorted and viewed a little less painfully.

I copied this off bobistheoilguy web site...

valvoline has all the ZDDP that is advertised... BlackStone labs have been remiss reporting due to calibration errors. that they acknowledged over @ team chevelle... THEY GOOFED... this was done in 2008... I have had Valvoline VR1 30weight and Valvoline 20W50 tested by two different labs.. the samples were taken from the same bottle and sent to Polaris labs http://www.polarislabs1.com/oil-analysis.htm and to analysts inc http://www.analystsinc.com/index.html...

the results were with in 10% of each other.. Zinc was well over 1400ppm and phosphorus was 1300ppm...

Bodo wrote:I took the oil data presented earlier and imported it into an Excel File. I also cleaned it up a bit. This way it can be sorted and viewed a little less painfully.

Nice information. Any ideas what years the dates were? 4-5 year old oil analysis generally dont help much.

I didn't provide the original data, but I believe that the data was from 2007 or 2006.

Muad'Dib wrote:I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15w50. It has something like 1200.

EDIT..

It is 1200:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... _Guide.pdf

They also say its for flat tappet cams...

HT/HS applications. Racing and Flat tappet applications

Mobil 1 no longer makes 15w50 EP. They have just straight 15w-50 (1300 Zinc), but im not too keen on running that heavy of an oil anymore especially on a new stroker. 5w-50 and 0w-40 is also available with 1100 Zinc... but these oils are SM rated... ive heard for flat tappets CI-4 and CI-4 plus is a better choice like the 5w-40 listed below:

The next best oils from Mobil 1 seem to be the High Mileage line (any viscosity), and the 5w-40 Turbo Diesel Truck oil. I just changed my oil today (non stroker) using the Turbo Diesel stuff. Appears to be a very good candidate for people who want to run synthetic after proper break in (id say at least 3000-4000 miles on dino oil). The link quoted above still works and shows the current lineup with tech specs.

I actually just posed this question to my XJ group. I have been running Rotell-T 15w40 since I got all my Jeeps a few years ago. Even Rotella for Diesels is getting low on the ZDDP count. My plan is to use a good assembly lube with a high ZDDP count and Royal Purple break-in motor oil. After that two oil changes a year with Royal purple.

I did find this which helps find the right PPM count on the back of the oil container. I listed this on my site a while back just so I have it for reference. Its a table showing the certifications of the oil and whats in them.

http://www.arbrtek.net/xtek/temp01.html