Jeep Strokers

Yeah, these are kinda' spendy engines to build compared to a Ford or Chev S.B., for instance. What initially seems expensive with respect to Hesco, may not be too bad. Especially if you "get it right" the first time. I built the 4.0 first and then did the stroker when the stocker ate the cam. I coulda' had a blown stroker for what I've got tied up between the two builds. That's why this forum is a gem. It pays to read up. Most of the folks on here are pretty decent about answering questions

T~

Amen brothers.

Don H Jr
New today to site

Unstroked as of yet; but vernerable to it...lol!

I know my speeling sucks, but my Cherokee runs like a dream still at over a quarter million miles, yet to burn oil and never in a shop. All done in driveway for past 12 years by me and a cheap set of tools. I tune it very carefully, keep the distributor cleaned out from the two holes in it that let stuff in moisture. I put new dist cap and rotor once year cause it's burn by the moisture getting in.
I run upgraded plugs and home made cold air mods on stock system, so far. Drilled half inch holes all over bottom half and front of airbox with screen door wire mesh crumpled up in airbox with KN filter. Growls, breaths, drains. Ten years and still working well. Digging out front air inlet next and removing bug screen factory put by radiator near headlight lens for more air. Also will insulate whole deal soon.
Have steel cowl induction hood in box still, big bucks but so much potential. And will look so cool, too.

Don H. Jr.
Gig Harbor, WA

I recently picked up my engine from the machine shop. $1585 .....which isn't bad considering I had them build the longblock for me, machine the head and assemble it all together ready to go right into the ZJ. Good machine work does cost a lot of money though! The total for labor was just over $1300 for disassembly & assembly of the longblock, cleaning of misc parts, grinding of the crank, & head work.

dwg86 wrote:I just got a call from my machine shop. Engine is ready to be picked up. The work that was done. Clean, bore, and zero deck block. Install cam bearings and freeze plugs. Turn and polish 12 weight crank(Shop said only had to turn the mains .010. Rod journals were perfect). Balance assembly. Install pistons on rods. The only parts I had to buy from the machine shop was cam bearings and brass freeze plugs. The bill...$818.04!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I haven't seen the itemized bill yet. I can't imagine why it's so high, unless they had to add heavy metal to balance the crank. I'll be picking up the engine sometime next week. I'll post what is in the bill. Has anyone else had that kind of cost?

The machine shop came highly recommended. He builds mostly high performance engines. After talking to shop, I found out they have built a couple of 4.0 strokers.

i dont have itemized in front of me.
chico,ca
$1200 included zero deck, balance rotate assembly, 20 over, 10/10 crank, all new parts-hyper pistons, cut piston dish, full engine kit plus flexplate and damper, ARP rod bolts, head bolts... etc... including tanking all my sheetmetal...
$600? for complete head work-new bigger stainless valves, new springs, guides, seats, all rocker arms and bridges... everything for a complete head.

build is gonna be 1800 for running long block, plus 575 for 727 trans and 208 case with new chain(another shop.
i think from wrench to wrench im gonna be in for about a total inc purchase price of donor rig maybe $3500 after i make a few orders from summit racing.
thats everything from not owning a truck to driving a brand new 1950 Cheep(chevy/jeep))4x4 truck
i had to buy a electric pump and new braided and hard line since the 4.0 block is not set for mechanical pump