Pretty sure my new can is shot. Gotta pic if it loads

[Cheromaniac]

Well this isn't the first start up. First fifty miles was fine. I'm pulling the cam and just replacing it. $140 shipped is cheap. I going to attempt it by holding the lifters up by the dowel rod trick I saw. I just got done replacing new lifters and that's a job with a broken wrist.

Very bad idea.
Please DON'T reuse those same lifters on a new cam unless you're a glutton for punishment and want to replace the cam for a 3rd time.
Remember this golden rule for flat tappet cams: Always use NEW lifters with a NEW cam.
You can use new lifters with an old cam but not the other way round except if you have a roller cam.
Now thank me and SilverXJ for saving you a lot of cash and more heartache!

[amceaglesx4]

Lol... yea I learnt my lesson. Excited and wasn't thinking and dont recall a bird in my ear on that one. The radiator and condenser are out today and looks like I got to pull the bumper no biggie on the eagle. I should have a pretty straight shot at it. I think I'm going to use a 3/8 brake like because it is more rigid and maybe put 30 degree angle on the edge. For stubborn ones I'm going to figure out a long narrow pic to grab the snap clip on the lifter to bring it up to get under it. My biggest thing is marking exactly where all timing marks and such go so everything is exact. Dont know how to do this special degreeing the camshaft thing but if its the same cam , which it is I don't see any surprise issues.

[SilverXJ]

Why are you trying to hold the lifters up if you are replacing them? Just pull them out and install the cam.

As for the timing set, if you don't know how to align it up least stock wise (dot to dot), mark the chain on both the cam and crank cog. You can zip tie the chain to the cam cog and then to the crank gear after you get it off.

[optmaxx]

You should listen to what they're telling you and not reuse those newish lifters because they are most likely shot from the bad cam. I know what thread you're talking about, it shows a guy replacing Jeep cam without removing the head, but I wouldn't even do it; he got lucky. I know tearing into your engine a few times isn't fun because I've been there, but try everything you can so that you don't have to tear into it again.

I tore into my engine a few times before finding out I had piston ring failure, but not only did I change the pistons, I changed the cam and lifters too because I didn't want anymore surprises. Good luck, and take a little more time to do it right. You know what's wrong, so you're almost there, just do it the way it's recommended.

[amceaglesx4]

I pulled the head last week and put new lifters in it with ticking still. Those lifters are in the garbage except one so I can use it to figure out a lifting method if needed.

[SilverXJ]

If I am understanding correctly you installed new lifters on your cam then ran it. You then plan to replace the cam and use current (used) lifters on a new cam. Your lifters were run on a cam (of questionable wear). They are not new and should be not used on another new cam.

Once the lifters are matted to the cam by break in or by driving if you skipped break in they are no longer new and can not be used on another cam.

You can put new lifters on an old cam and run the break in process. You can put new lifters on a new cam and run the break in process. You can not put used lifters on a new cam.

Also, what lifters are you using? I wouldn't recommend anything but Johnson/Hylift lifters p/n 2011 (iirc).

[amceaglesx4]

Well now this is fricking fantastic. I pulled the shit lifters and put new ones in with the possible bad cam and idled it for a few minutes. Now these things are considered used and not usable ? Wtf are these things made of plastic or something. The eagle never left the garage !

[SilverXJ]

Idled it for a few minutes? Didn't even perform a cam break in? You are doing everything 100% wrong.

[optmaxx]

Doesn't it take some time for new lifters to pump up with oil and quite down if the oil system wasn't primed? I know that when I changed my lifters because I thought that I was having valve train noise, and I didn't prime the oil system, the valvetrain was noisy. It would tick and clack until the lifters got pump up with oil, and it took a bit more than a few minutes I think, and it was enough to make me nervous.

Anyways, if money is a factor, then maybe you could return your lifters at the auto parts store you bought them from and exchange them for new ones? I've done it without any issues at O'riely or Autozone, and I've even exchanged a head gasket once. I run the sealed power lifters with my new stock 809 cam, and it sounds ok to me. However, these guys run the same cam as you so they know what's best for that cam, it's up to you.

Having to remove the head to change the lifters again would probably only take an extra day or two vs changing the lifters without removing the head, to me that's worth it in order to avoid anymore issues.

Also, how are your push rods, are they straight? Not sure if those were checked, but I could have missed it. I still think it's worth looking at your cylinder walls and check for scuffing, but that's just me.

[jsawduste]

Idled it for a few minutes? Didn't even perform a cam break in? You are doing everything 100% wrong.

Glad you said it. Think I've been bitching too much lately.

Your not soaking the lifters in oil and bleeding them before install ? Please don't tell me your doing it dry.

[nicpaige]

Im sorry I have to say it....you are a glutton for punishment or simply too stubborn to get out of your own way.

[amceaglesx4]

I read somewhere just put them in and priming them could not really benefit anything. So where I'm at now is everything is half assembled. So wtf here ? I'm getting the new cam and new lifters everyone. So I'm guessing let them soak in oil or finger pump them up in the oil or what ? Yes pushrods are fine.

[krom]

from comp cams:

1.Lifter Preparation : Remove your new COMP Cams® lifters from the packaging, and clean the lifters thoroughly in mineral spirits or an equivalent solvent. Remember, in order to protect your camshaft warranty new COMP Cams® lifters
must be installed on flat tappet cams. It is not necessary to “pre-pump” hydraulic lifters full of engine oil prior to installation and valve adjustment. It is actually undesirable to do so as the “pumped up” lifters will cause the valves to open during the adjustment process, rather than positioning the lifter plunger in its operating position as it is supposed to do. “Pre-soaking” hydraulic lifters in a bath of engine oil is a good idea but not mandatory. Doing so ensures that the lifters are adequately lubricated on their outer surfaces prior to installation. It may also result in a quieter engine start up as the oil in the bath may displace some air from the lifter’s plunger reservoir. Coat the bottoms of all flat tappet lifters with COMP Cams® Cam and Lifter Installation Lube (Part #103) supplied with flat tappet cams. When you install the lifters, make sure they fit well. Flat tappet lifters should rotate freely in the lifter bores. Any excess clearance or tight lifters can cause damage to the camshaft, leading to engine failure. Note: .0015”-.002” lifter bore clearance is minimum.

how to break in a new cam:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=re-VqHO3cH8

[jeepxj3]

[amceaglesx4]

Well the o !ld one is out. It didn't look per say bad or really jacked up ! New camshaft finally got in yesterday and mostly everything is back togather. The Eagles bumber came off as well as radiator and installed it. V8's are much easier !!! New lifters soaked and primed up as well as the cam lubed really good. Funny my wife came out to the garage and thought I had blood all over my hands because the comp stuff is bright red lol. A few drive accessories left and final inspection and hope to God my tappet tap tap is gone. Yes... I have Lucas break in zinc additive going in with my Rotella 15w40. Hopefully I can take off my retard helmet and bow now, then lick the banana flavored door window lmao. Btw.... somebody find me a carter afb 9400 or 9410 400 cfm four barrel !