Jeep Strokers

bellator50 wrote:Hope someone can answer this for me. Here is where I am at I have a 258 crank and OE 4.0 rods. I intend to go with Bulltear pistons with 26 or 27.5 cc dish. The question is what needs done to the rods far as machine work.

If my crank is no good, anyone have thoughts on this kit.
http://www.cleggengine.com/stage-ii-4-6 ... -1c-r.html

Sending you a message.

Have them checked magnafluxed to check for cracks and checked for straightness. Polish the rod beams. They don't have to be shiny just remove the casting grain with. Make sure the new sanding grain goes along the rod's length. Replace the bolts with ARP hardware and have the rods resized. Shot peening and cryo tempering are also two other options. Shot peening should be done before sesizing.

Cheromaniac had provided me a recipe I was using, but since I went with the Clegg kit. http://www.cleggengine.com/stage-ii-4-6 ... -1c-r.html It kinda threw things off. I am at cam selection and could use some advice. If I use OEM cam with zero deck I get 9.1 SCR and a DCR of 7.86. Clegg suggested keeping the pistons down the bore just a bit. So if I go 10 thousands in the hole with a Mopar cam, I get an SCR of 8.94 and DCR of 7.81. What cam would be best for daily driver to run on 87 octane and to avoid issues. I read in Jeep mag that going below a DCR or 8.1 one would lose some low end torque.

https://plus.google.com/116651934844743 ... mv6xgTvyMR

bellator50 wrote:I read in Jeep mag that going below a DCR or 8.1 one would lose some low end torque.

Naturally the engine would make more torque with a higher compression but you can't run 87 octane AND expect maximum torque. Something has to give, and a DCR above 8.0:1 with an iron head pretty much rules out the possibility of using 87 octane without pinging.

Naturally the engine would make more torque with a higher compression but you can't run 87 octane AND expect maximum torque. Something has to give, and a DCR above 8.0:1 with an iron head pretty much rules out the possibility of using 87 octane without pinging.

Would you still recommenced the OE cam.

Yup.

87 octane

FlyinRyan wrote:87 octane

The lowest octane fuel available in Europe is 91 octane (95 RON) so blame the oil companies for supplying pumps in other parts of the world with 87 octane catpiss.

gradon wrote:In that Cleggengine link, I checked out what they offered and found that their Stage II kit comes with:

Icon 4032 Forged Dish Pistons -27.5cc #IC668
Cast Piston Rings #E667 Scat Enterprises 9000 Series Performance Cast Steel Crankshaft 3.895” Stroke #9-4.2L-3895
Connecting Rods 4.0L 242ci 6.125” Reconditioned
King Connecting Rod & Main Bearing

Has anyone heard of the IC668s? I didn't find them anywhere else online. I did find an IC968 for a Chevy. .
You'd want to click all the options(even the rods) if you went the kit route.

I got my kit and the IC668 are supposedly a new design made for CLEGG. They do not have a D cup dish in them, they are completely round. I shall see how that's gonna work.

I'm looking into the same Clegg crank kit, but maybe going to use the Stage 1 cam kit. How is the crank kit working for you? I don't know that I'm going to shave the block any, so it will be roughly a .063 quench height, but going to do the +.030 bore.

What are your impressions of the kit so far?

Tighten the quench

jsawduste wrote:Tighten the quench

X 2,

Should be shooting for something around .040ish
Most of my engines are .032 to .036

A tight quench on a normally aspirated engine makes a big difference.


Russ

Got it finally fired up. Got cam broke in and running smoothly and strong.. The Clegg kit was great all balanced out great.

bellator50 wrote:Got it finally fired up. Got cam broke in and running smoothly and strong.. The Clegg kit was great all balanced out great.

Chalk another one up in the win column. Congrats. Hope your engine continues to run reliably for many years to come (knock on wood).

Hi everyone!

I need your advice for '99 WJ Stroker build recipe.
I have 280K kilometers on it now and don't now if anything was done with my engine before, but it runs good and doesn't consume any oil.
Anyway I guess it will be needed to get rebored and rehoned.
I usually run LPG as it's my daily driver.
Last couple of years I was reading this forum and researched information about Jeep stroking, but there is such a huge heap of different configs so I am a little bit confused which one is better for me.

I've already bought Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank and found spare ZJ block with 4.0 rods.
I don't want to buy expensive Keith Black pistons and custom forged pistons and also want to leave my stock cam.
So I found this config:

Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
Jeep 4.2L 5.875" rods
Sealed Power H802CP standard bore pistons (dished to 18cc's)
9.25:1 SCR
7.96:1 DCR
Stock 4.0 camshaft
Port & Polish cylinder head
Mopar/Victor 0.043" head gasket
0.081" quench height
stock injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines
247hp @ 4900rpm, 300lbft @ 3500rpm (thats what Dino's site says)

If I mill block deck 0.020" I will get better SCR for LPG and better quench height. And little more power.
But will stock 4.0 camshaft and stock lifters work?
Are ZJ and WJ blocks compatible?
What do you think or would you advice me a good stroker recipe?

Thanx!