Jeep Strokers

Both quoted parts are off the shelf single piece designs same wall and material as far as they will tell me.

Another question that has been bothering me I still have regular fuel in the tank should I add octane booster to it for the first start?

Also I can't find a colder plug for the stock RC12LYC plugs any suggestions?

Cheers

Chris

I use NGK and I have a few numbers posted on here. IIRC they may be in one of the FAQs.

I also wanted to mention, did you check both the intake and exhaust preloads? And on more than one cylinder?

The preload is what I am measuring with the pushrod length right? I checked both intake and exhaust on cylinder 1 and a random other pushrod and they were all the same. I will check all 12 as it is pretty simple to do.

Cheers

Chris

Yes, what you are checking is preload. I wouldn't go through the trouble of all 12, but it won't hurt.

Ok Will do!

Any thoughts on the fuel situation?

Had to buy a piston stop to find TDC again after adjusting the chain since my cam degreed off 15ish degree's. Found TDC originally using a dial indicator on the piston, bit hard with the head on :p

Cheers

Chris

Checked a few pushrods all seemed to indicate I need 0.130" shorter so I ordered a set of 9.500" pushrods from trend. Should have them next week just in time to fire the engine up I hope!

Plan to install the engine this weekend and the connect everything else during the week. Fire it up the following weekend.

Cheers

Chris

Boys and Girls just a reminder the first valve from the front is not a intake valve so don't try and degree the intake centerline using that pushrod!

No wonder I was confusing the hell out of myself and spent almost 6hrs on and off trying to figure it out :p

All done now, Cam matches with specs with a centerline at 106 deg. I will measure the duration and then close it up until I recieve the new trend pushrods.

Hope to weld the pickup to the oil pump today.

Cheers

Chris

Ok Engine is in and running with some issues but first lets get caught up!

So I measured the duration at 0.050" lift and it matched the cam spec card so that was great. Buttoned up the Timing cover with the spring and pin for the camshaft and loctite on the camshaft bolt.

Also welded up the Oil Pickup tube after confirming I had it in the correct location.
Attached the pan to the engine with a new gasket and installed water pump and 180 deg stant thermostat so all ready for installation!

Took a bit of work to get the torque converter engaged with the transmission correctly again as I had removed everything to change the front pump seals etc. Finally after multiple attempts it clunked into place .

First attempt at installation involved a load leveler and we managed to get the engine in and lined up only to find that the leveler prevented the engine from going far enough back to engage with the transmission!!!! gahhh!!!
Had to take it back out remove the flex plate mount it back on the stand and rig with chain only. This time we managed to get it in and mated to the transmission.
Now getting the engine mounts on was a major pain in the rear! I used Iron Rock Offroad mounts and they are a tight fit! Unfortunately I managed to strip a thread out of the block on one of the 6 bolts so it is mounted with 5 only right now until I can have a machine shop put in a Helicoil.

Next!

And the engine is in sitting pretty! Just need to connect everything back up
After re connecting everything, new belt, new hoses, spark plugs etc
Time for some fluids I think!
Filled everything up and checked for leaks, I seemed to have a small coolant leak at the rear of the engine, drip from the flex plate dust cover, hope it does not turn out to be an issue!!

Next!

Primed the engine using a drill and cut off screwdriver.
Now installing the distributor was a pain for some reason the first 4-6 times I tried the ear did not line up with the hole in the block and was off significantly. Piston 1 was on its compression stroke and set to TDC using the Harmonic Balancer and timing cover mark (which I checked when degreeing in the cam) slot in oil pump shaft set at 11 o'clock and a pin in the distributor alignment hole. Then somehow it just lined up perfectly not sure what I did differently that time but I quickly bolted it down and connected the spark plugs etc.

Started it up and ran it between 2,000 and 2,500 rpm for 30 mins to break in the cam shaft, seemed to run fine coolant temperatures went to about 110 deg C then the fan engaged and dropped back down to 95ish. Exhaust manifold did not glow red.

Let it cool a bit and drained the engine oil and changed filter and new oil. Added coolant to the overflow to be sucked back up when it cooled. Left it overnight as I had to adjust the front band on the transmission before I could drive it and that was causing me some headaches!!

Next morning checked underneath for leaks and it looks like the small leak at the back fixed itself as there was no sign of it after sitting for 12ish hrs. Over lunch I went to Grainger and picked up an 8pt 5/16 socket so I could adjust the front band. Then the moment of truth!

Next

So last night I took it out for its first drive. Did the whole rev up to 50 mph and coast to 30mph about 10 times to seat the rings I drove around for about 45 mins while I hope the computer learned what it needed to.

Initially if I put it in Neutral or park at a light or something it would rev up to 2200 rpm but at the end when I parked it at home it was only reving to 740rpms idling in park.

It drives fine but does not seem to have any extra power if anything maybe a little weaker? What should I be checking? I have Torque for android with an OBDII bluetooth unit.

I ran a test and got the following report:


Mode $06 report generated by Torque for Android
================================================
Vehicle VIN: Not present
Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown
Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present
Unit and scaling information are not supplied with the data from the ECU for this type of vehicle. Consulting the manufacturers service book for this information is recommended.
Test report:
------------------
TID:$11 CID:$01
-
Min: 48
Test result value: 14
FAIL
----
TID:$13 CID:$01
-
Min: 16
Test result value: 156
PASS
----
TID:$19 CID:$01
-
Max: 3,732
Test result value: 1,487
PASS
----
TID:$1a CID:$01
-
Max: 15,547
Test result value: 2,720
PASS
----
TID:$1c CID:$01
-
Max: 15,547
Test result value: 2,720
PASS
----
TID:$21 CID:$01
-
Max: 191
Test result value: 15
PASS
----
End of report.

I also took screenshots of the fuel trim and timing advance if it means anything?
What else should I look at.

Cheers

Chris

I would check for vacuum leaks.

Are you using stock heat range champion plugs?

What, if anything, are you using for engine management?

purple_jeep wrote:Initially if I put it in Neutral or park at a light or something it would rev up to 2200 rpm but at the end when I parked it at home it was only reving to 740rpms idling in park.

TPS or vacuum leak most likely.

Yeah I am thinking vacuum leak also as my brakes seem a little unresponsive also. I don't see anything wrong but I will keep checking... TPS is new not to long ago (mopar part) same with the IAC valve.

Spark plugs are ZFR6F-11

Engine management is all stock no adjustable MAP or anything yet. I would love to have you tune it just a little outside my budget right now . Looking at ways of building my own AFR data logger using the Bosch LSU 4.9 and an audrino.

Here is a graph of my drive to work from Torque
Cheers

Chris

FlyinRyan wrote:I would check for vacuum leaks.

Are you using stock heat range champion plugs?

What, if anything, are you using for engine management?

Are you still offering tunes for $375 per http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... =21&t=3637 ?

Cheers

Chris