Jeep Strokers

If you have read through this thread you know that I have still not purchased many main engine components. Besides my crank, which is a four counter weight 258 crank ground -.030 on the rods and mains. Stroke=3.895. I am waiting on purchasing other things because my wife and kid are both in school full time and I can barley keep gas in the jeep let alone buy expensive parts. But I will save my little moneys and do the job a little at a time. I am attempting the slow, cheap, quality build. And I am glad I am taking my time because if I would have ran out and bought parts I would have been returning them anyhow.
I have read the C/R FAQ a dozen times now and I think I am comfortable enough to make a move or two. But I am a little nervous to cut medal. First, when I polished and CC'd the combustion chambers I had to remove a little material. I ended up with 60cc combustion chambers. This is 2 CCs larger than stock which means I have lowered my DCR by .19 without affecting my quench. To raise my DCR and lower my quench I want to deck my block -.010.
here is my recipe and I am sure it will change before I actually buy parts

4.0 block, align honed, Decked -.010, Bored-.030
258 crank, cut -.030 rods/mains
4.0 conrods weight matched
Keith black IC945 forged piston = 11.4 cc dish
Polished, port matched, and CCd (60CCs) 0331 head (yeah I built an 0331 but it was my first so who cares if it cracks Ill build a TUPY)
Mopar performance head gasket =.043 compressed
Comp Cams 68-232-4

This should net a 7.74:1 DCR with a quench of .054499

I think this looks good for now and I'll probably order the pistons in the next 6 months or so

Good news!!! I have procured a part time gig at the AutoZone down the street. There was two ideas behind this job. One I will get a discount on parts. And two I will have extra money to put towards my build. Hopefully this thing starts to move a little quicker. Off to work...I think this job will be fun.

After getting my head back from the Mech Shop I had to clean it up a bit. And I was not satisfied with the shine on my CCs so I set to work making them shine-yer. After this was done I CC'd the chambers again and they were all steady at 65 CCs. This brings my DCR down into the 6s. So now I will need to reduce CC volume any way I can. I will start by decking the block -.020. Then I will order the KB 945 pistons as they have a 10cc smaller dish than the 944s. I will opt for the mopar performance .043 head gasket. And I am thinking about milling the head. taking .020 off the head will mean -4.12 CCs out of the CC
taking .030 off the head will mean -6.18 CCs out of the CC... Bingo This brings my CC volume down to 58.8 CCs and my DCR up to 8.12 in Denver.

Has anyone ever milled .030 off of a 0331 head? Will I run into any clearance issues?

akadeutsch wrote:After getting my head back from the Mech Shop I had to clean it up a bit. And I was not satisfied with the shine on my CCs so I set to work making them shine-yer. After this was done I CC'd the chambers again and they were all steady at 65 CCs. This brings my DCR down into the 6s. So now I will need to reduce CC volume any way I can. I will start by decking the block -.020. Then I will order the KB 945 pistons as they have a 10cc smaller dish than the 944s. I will opt for the mopar performance .043 head gasket. And I am thinking about milling the head. taking .020 off the head will mean -4.12 CCs out of the CC
taking .030 off the head will mean -6.18 CCs out of the CC... Bingo This brings my CC volume down to 58.8 CCs and my DCR up to 8.12 in Denver.

Has anyone ever milled .030 off of a 0331 head? Will I run into any clearance issues?

I just had approx. 2 cc milled off a 0331. not sure how much material it was that was removed. the head was warped .006. It was a Clearwater cylinder head that I have had nothing but trouble with.

Go get yourself an 0331 Tupy from a junker 03-06 and a die grinder from Harbor Freight and then set to work port match and polishing. If you stick to only port matching I would think it would be hard to do any damage. And the runners can definitely benefit from a polish.

akadeutsch wrote:taking .030 off the head will mean -6.18 CCs out of the CC... Bingo This brings my CC volume down to 58.8 CCs and my DCR up to 8.12 in Denver.

Typically there is plenty of room before the valves touch the pistons. Never hurts to check during assembly though.

akadeutsch wrote: If you stick to only port matching I would think it would be hard to do any damage. And the runners can definitely benefit from a polish.

Don't forget to check the intake manifold too. Polish the exhaust side, leave the intake side rough.

I sold the 4 CW crank and decided to go with an entire rotating assembly from Clegg Engines. I just did not want to grind this crank .030 under. It only weighed 43 pounds. Ill spend about 1800 for the complete assembly plus their stage 2 cam kit along with a gasket set. I know that I could find the parts a little cheaper individually. However, I want desperately to KNOW that all these parts will play nice together. And the guys at Clegg have sold a bunch of these kits. But I am still about $1000 away from purchase. Word to the wise. If possible build your stroker motor before you pull out your old one. You will have less down time and an easier time with reassembly.

I finally have the money to buy my pistons and i am facing a delema. Today these came up on CraigsList...
https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/4491655724.html
Check out the skirts...
Too good to be true?
500 pistons for 100 bucks?

They are used pistons id be happy to get 100 for them too.Dont skimp on engine parts.Saving 50 here will cost you thousands in the long run!!!!!You can spend it now once or spend it again twice.The second time always hurts more.

Id contact newcomer racing before purchasing a kit from them.Keith has a respected background being a carb tuner and dyno operator at dei.Obviously he knows what hes doing if he landed that job.He has a reputation to uphold as opposed to these big companies selling jeep parts.Ive talked to him in the past very nice guy and knows his stuff.Cant hurt.

akadeutsch wrote:I finally have the money to buy my pistons and i am facing a delema. Today these came up on CraigsList...
https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/4491655724.html

Wouldn't touch those with a 10 foot stick. Scuffed skirts, they were already pressed on and off rods once. Plus the machinist said they were undersized? That means he bored and honed the block before having the pistons? Nothing about them sounds good.

thanks gentlemen. I had a moment of weakness thinking about the savings but I will be purchasing my New KB 945s later this week. Ebay seems to have the best price so far.

How about this crank shaft? I called and James told me that it was seized, but that it had never been apart.
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/4496264732.html

I just ordered a master rebuild kit from RockAuto for 328.00 to include pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, and freeze plugs.
I will also be ordering a stage one cam kit from Clegg for another 327.00. Now I think all I will need is an oil pump.