Jeep Strokers

IH 392 wrote:they are "EIIEIEEIEIIE"

That was a thought I had too.

SilverXJ wrote: Can you provide a pic of the timing set? Either installed or laid on a table as it would be aligned for install, dot to dot.

I have a strong feeling I'll be looking under the timing cover again anyways, but it won't be for awhile.

SilverXJ wrote:

IH 392 wrote:they are "EIIEIEEIEIIE"

That was a thought I had too.

Definitely looking at the correct valves.

IH 392 wrote:The no compression could be misaligned marks?, bad set or simply off a tooth?, as for the valve action!??, it's ASSBACKWARDS!, are you sure you're looking at the correct valve for your description?, they are "EIIEIEEIEIIE"

The timing set is dot to dot now. I wouldn't make that mistake twice after all the work involved. Even if I was off a tooth though, it doesn't explain how the valve events are so wrong. I wish pulling the cam on these engines was as easy as my LS1. I'd have it out already to swap in a better option. Are these head bolts and head gaskets re-usable? They're not on the LS-engines so I figured I'd ask.

Speaking of better options, I'm planning for the worst case scenario assuming I'm going to have to pull the cam out so is there a different cam you'd recommend for a 99% daily driver 1% off road weekend warrior?

Here's a second thought...just throwing this out there. What about spinning the cam gear 180* so the dots are still on the same plane but 180* off? To me it seems like the valve events are opposite what they should be like someone f**ked up while grinding the lobes on the blank at Melling (who btw won't return my phone calls, nor will the shop who I bought the cam from).

Rinkrat456 wrote: What about spinning the cam gear 180* so the dots are still on the same plane but 180* off?

Makes no difference what so ever!, I've heard some guys say this is possible , I've NEVER put ANY! consideration in to this BS! at all, turn the crank 360 and it's all lined up like it's supposed to be!, both valves closed on compression and drop the distributor in and it's good to go! (correctly timed of course)

The way you describe the valve events it sounds like you have a cam ground on the Chevy pattern!??, they turn opposite of the crank as they are gear driven.

So I finally got a hold of Melling's tech support. Apparently we're not supposed to line up the cam and crank sprocket dots dot to dot. They sent me a diagram of the installation.



One of my many concerns though, is our timing set has more pins/teeth/links. When/why did Jeep update the timing set? I assume this means the 15 pin rule no longer applies.

Rinkrat456 wrote:When/why did Jeep update the timing set? I assume this means the 15 pin rule no longer applies.

The 4.0 I6 had a single roller chain up to '93. From '94 onwards it was changed to a silent link type so for those later models, the 15 pin rule no longer applies.

Cheromaniac wrote:

Rinkrat456 wrote:When/why did Jeep update the timing set? I assume this means the 15 pin rule no longer applies.

The 4.0 I6 had a single roller chain up to '93. From '94 onwards it was changed to a silent link type so for those later models, the 15 pin rule no longer applies.

Is there a way to verify the chain timing without following any rules of dots or pins lining up? Like I mentioned above, it seems the cam is opposite of how it should be so I could start by rotating the cam gear roughly 180 +/- 30 degrees either way.

The 15 pin thing was just to verify that it is in time, not to set it up. And it no longer applies.

To check if its in time you need to degree it in.