Jeep Strokers

Ok, here's a question! What year block can I use to cram in my 99' (dizzy) TJ if I get one from a XJ? I was talking to my father in law today and he's going to finally open a shop. So I suggested building the stroker there which he immediately agreed to. The one thing he brough up is what if I used another block and we just swap them out in a day when all is said and done? Good point. There's tons of xj's in the JY around here, but I know that there are some differences in the blocks and I couldn't really find what I was looking for in the FAQ.

You can bolt the dizzy into any year 4.0 block but your real concern should be to find a suitable block that'll allow you to bolt on your existing engine mounts and ancillaries.

something youll want to think about is the location of those darn square drive pipe plugs on the side of your engine - i ended up buying a set of square drive sockets to get just one of them out ($45 bux on thebay) we used a 93block and head in an 90 model engine and many of the plugs had to be moved and others needed a plug were there wasnt one on the 93 block
just something to think about if you think your gonna "do an engine swap in a day" mine took about a week as i had to wait for the sockets lol

oh and ungreekificate (its a word look it up in websters;D) this for me if you would:

Someone put bob weights on an inline six crank?

I can't decipher what the machine shop actually did but they massively improved the balance of the bottom end. It looks like there was a lot of imbalance initially.

SilverXJ wrote:Someone put bob weights on an inline six crank?

It's my understanding bob weights are not necessary on an inline since one cylinder is balanced by the other cylinder that is 180 degrees opposite. The piston/rod assemblies just all need to weigh the same.

Interesting that the balance machine took it up to 10K. I'm not sure how to interpret it either since there are left&right sides and the initial weights were 76.6 and 58.4 and then afterwards 2.12 and 2.23(did he remove 74.5 and 56.2?). Anyhow, I'm sure it was worth his services--one of the things I regretably skipped on my build since the machinist I use doesn't do this/have the capability.

Retlaw01XJ wrote:

SilverXJ wrote:Someone put bob weights on an inline six crank?

It's my understanding bob weights are not necessary on an inline since one cylinder is balanced by the other cylinder that is 180 degrees opposite. The piston/rod assemblies just all need to weigh the same.

That is correct. Adding bob weights won't do anything because they will cancel each other out.

I believe there are 3 on ebay right now one rebuilt and two that need work.

Well,my crank and rods came in. Looks like I'm sitting on a 4 weight 54mm nosed 258 crank. # 3727. Just fine by me. Now I just need to find the block. I'll start snooping around the yards in a few days.

I'm looking at a 94 block and head tonight. The guy says he threw a rod in it. We'll see what happens with that one. There's also a 92 I found for a little less with no damage. I've been thinking about a cam. I'd like a stock cam from a later model. I don't know if I'm being paranoid, but can I really trust a used cam? I would think it would be too worn to get all the performance I would need. I was thinking about CompCams #68-231-4 206/214 degree camshaft. I found them cheap enough so would this combo work?

4.2 Crank and rods
CompCams #68-231-4 206/214 degree camshaft
677p pistons (not sure on bore size yet)
H.O. block and head?

That combo will work.

Good to know. Any thoughts on single vs. double roller chains?

Go with a double roller.