Jeep Strokers

SilverXJ wrote:Check out Scat cranks. They have a crank that can be had for $400, maybe less through your machine shop.

My little brother, who works at O'Reilly's, can get me a reman for $150. Terrible idea?

Might be crap, might not.

SilverXJ wrote:Might be crap, might not.

That's what I was thinking lol

There is a, "shield," just below the PVC/CCV elbow on both the front and rear elbows/valve cover location. WHat some folks don't know is the two elbows ARE NOT THE SAME. The newer rear elbows, with the ORFACE hole in it have TOO SMALL of a tube going from the elbow to the intake vaccum port, which is also too small. If the older set up is replaced by a 1998 or newer size, the TUBE QUITS PLUGGING UP with oil/etc and can flow better. The newer setup not only has bigger rear tube, but also has bigger metal part that screws into intake manifold.
Also, when finding all this out, I found the BAFFLES in my valve cover, just under the elbows were both PLUGGED SOlid. I cleaned them by removing the small bolts holding them in, and had to MAKE MY OWN GASKETS out of gasket material as the dealer doesn't carry them; they only want to sell you a whole valve cover new.

My 1994 I6 has a CCV system; NOT a PCV system. No valve, just needs to flow clean air into the front of cover and dirty air through the orface/restrictor hole in the rear to vaccum and intake manifold. Opening up the orface a tad might not hurt anything either; too much will mess with running of engine, especially I only venture a guess here, it might mess with idle speed a bit with too much vaccume being bled off for no good reason.
After doing this small stuff to mine, finally the oil stopped getting into my air cleaner filter and engine ran better because of it.

don jr

TITAN SMOKE: If i was to bet on something, I'd BET RINGS WERE NOT BROKE IN PROPERLY (not seated) WHEN ENGINE was BROKE IN. Coasting down hill with throttle closed, then flooring it and smoking is rings (classic). Also, with a piece out of a piston looks like it was burn't out from running lean/hot in at least that one hole. All the black soot/carbon has a story to tell too if you can track down the story that put it there.

Don Jr

NEW Block; NEW Crank; I feel sorry for you brother. And you still end up with a short rod motor in the end. There is a PLUS to us attempting to build our own motors I suppose. At least we know what goes into them. I sincerely believe we DON'T spend enough time and effort making sure all the electrical/fuel/pcv/ign bugs are worked out BEFORE we pull original motor out for replacement. When we run a brand new engine for break in too lean, etc. we are tossing our investment down the drain.

Don Jr

Don H Jr wrote:There is a, "shield," just below the PVC/CCV elbow on both the front and rear elbows/valve cover location. WHat some folks don't know is the two elbows ARE NOT THE SAME. The newer rear elbows, with the ORFACE hole in it have TOO SMALL of a tube going from the elbow to the intake vaccum port, which is also too small. If the older set up is replaced by a 1998 or newer size, the TUBE QUITS PLUGGING UP with oil/etc and can flow better. The newer setup not only has bigger rear tube, but also has bigger metal part that screws into intake manifold.

The newer style, stamped steel covers have a long single shield running the length of the valve cover, different from the aluminum valve covers with individual shields. I'm assuming you also beams older for the bold.

Don H Jr wrote:There is a, "shield," just below the PVC/CCV elbow on both the front and rear elbows/valve cover location. WHat some folks don't know is the two elbows ARE NOT THE SAME. The newer rear elbows, with the ORFACE hole in it have TOO SMALL of a tube going from the elbow to the intake vaccum port, which is also too small. If the older set up is replaced by a 1998 or newer size, the TUBE QUITS PLUGGING UP with oil/etc and can flow better. The newer setup not only has bigger rear tube, but also has bigger metal part that screws into intake manifold.
Also, when finding all this out, I found the BAFFLES in my valve cover, just under the elbows were both PLUGGED SOlid. I cleaned them by removing the small bolts holding them in, and had to MAKE MY OWN GASKETS out of gasket material as the dealer doesn't carry them; they only want to sell you a whole valve cover new.

My 1994 I6 has a CCV system; NOT a PCV system. No valve, just needs to flow clean air into the front of cover and dirty air through the orface/restrictor hole in the rear to vaccum and intake manifold. Opening up the orface a tad might not hurt anything either; too much will mess with running of engine, especially I only venture a guess here, it might mess with idle speed a bit with too much vaccume being bled off for no good reason.
After doing this small stuff to mine, finally the oil stopped getting into my air cleaner filter and engine ran better because of it.

don jr

Yeah I figured all that out too late, lol...

Don H Jr wrote:TITAN SMOKE: If i was to bet on something, I'd BET RINGS WERE NOT BROKE IN PROPERLY (not seated) WHEN ENGINE was BROKE IN. Coasting down hill with throttle closed, then flooring it and smoking is rings (classic). Also, with a piece out of a piston looks like it was burn't out from running lean/hot in at least that one hole. All the black soot/carbon has a story to tell too if you can track down the story that put it there.

Don Jr

It is possible I messed up the break in, I did it pretty hard....

Istarted a build thread for my new engine and posted all the Titan specs there: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... f=8&t=1874