Jeep Strokers

My mopar performance tear down set(p4529245) ended up being the fel-pro set with the .051" 9076pti HG and cork valve cover and oil pan gaskets. I just recently bought the victor reinz hg set(5713a) for the 01 I'm fixing and it came with the .043/.044" mls hg.

darn i don't recall already, but it came from MP/Summit I didn't look close enough....shoot. the parts are 120miles away/each way. Is there way/stamping that you would see on HG from MP?

The MLS 0.043" gasket as multi layers of steel which is visible. The OE gasket or Felpro does not show steel.

But, just because it is MLS doesn't mean it is .043"

Right... nothing beats measuring it...

it was defiantly MLS construction, what is the thickness before compressing of the gasket suppose to be?

mine measured 0.042-0.043" in the steel area.

well I am getting close, so I went ahead and ordered case of 10w30 CompCam break in oil. too many option on ZDDP and frankly I already have 5 different oils (3 kinds or royal Purple, 2 kinds of mobile one, 2 kinds of lubra molly, 2 synt Vavlvoline/off road and cheap diesel oil for my big block) that I stock for my "fleet". When I lower my inventory I will re-consolidate a couple of the option into perhaps Amsoil...

*1aautoparts.com header for YJ purchased...
for exception of pushrods I can't think of what else would I need to get....t-body and spacer kicks but! throttle is feather light response, especially when engine breaking and tap the throttle... man stock tired engine @ 6k feet is sweet I can only dream of what stroker would do!

Greetings, group
I had machinist mic. the gasket. The dimenson around firing rin was about .053". My machinist stated that that seemes like a right gasket to be crashed to .043".
As far as oil... well he said he usually dumps a can of BG MOA and I will do the fill with my compcam oil.

phew.... i don't like stressing about all of that crap
but in any case with standard gasket:
Static Compression Ratio: 9:13
Dynamic Compression Ratio: 7.86
Quench: .051

with MP skiny gasket

Static Compression Ratio: 9:27
Dynamic Compression Ratio: 7.98
Quench: .043

so even if I am making a mistake, the performance will suffer, but not enough to tear the engine down. At this point everything points that I do have the right gasket ( when ordrering MP confirm that kit includes the right gasket, gasket MLS, micing it leads to believe the .043" is the crashed thickness).

just ordered pushrods from trend performance ... came out to 9.575" long, ball/ball, hallow, w/ 5/32" ball size. part number T9575805
Yahoo! engine done, but i got no time to mess with it... got like 3 Christmas parties, just got dumped.... so need to find a date for the holidays ... kissing myself under mistletoe is kind of awkward, if you are following me
so 18th of December is the earliest i can go to the shop to pick up the engine...
ilber

Happy holidays, group
The engine is in, but there is BUT...

Removal:
I chose to go as easy as i can get away.
Plan was to swap in engine w/u removing tranny, TC
removed front grille, rad etc, basically all the random stuff, still have the harness hooked up and supported grill off the mirror on the driver side. the only hickup i had it the lower grill bold was right above my MOORE steereing box brace. 3 bolts late-home free
accessories... well shear number of crap was overwhelming, took a while. Manifolds lower bolts are PIA to get to, my lower collector/intermidiate bolts had to be cut off. i was done with that ~ 4 hours of wrenching, I was tired, hungry and had to be up in the early morning.
I asked my dad, not the most mechanically incline iduvidual) to take 4 bolts off, connecting bellhousing to the block.
I left for the day, doing Santa/fund raiser for Childrens Hospital.
Got home and my dad tells me that he could not get 1 bolt out.
I checked it out... SOB it is top belhousing external torx...
I asked him what did he use.... a 3/8" 12 point.... well doh!!!! 3/8" was slipping and correct socket E12 ( i believe) would not even pound on.
Ok change of the game plan.
yank the engine and tranny as 1.
put 3 bolts in and get to it.
Swapping brackets back and forth, self explanatory. new block didn't have guide pins-i just use the pipe wrench and got it out of the old block.
engine goes from top, tranny from buttom.
putting new clutch-no problem, putting new release-swapped lines with 2 o-rings on each, pulled roll pin to replace with ne, start driving thepin and it didn't look right- i bent the crap out of it. SOB, oh well old one was just fine- put the old roll pin in.
engine -in, all the brackets, new ajustable FPR, even serp drive in, start tightening bolt and hear crack... toward the firewall the ear that was suppose over the guide dowel was just slightly off.
Close inspection is impossible, the injectors do not seem to be seeted properly-so got to pull intake out to check for damadge and verify injectors seating all the way in.
tranny I believe it is not engadged on the shaft flanges fully, nor i had any drive left in me, plus the input shaft had noticable play in it.
Checked Casey G *TALL* valvecove. turned the engine by hand-no noise; i have cleared the valvetrain!
I was done. My carple was kicking in, my dad trying to help was driving me up the wall and burning my last fuse... time to quit.
Oh yeah MP tear down set is not the best thing.
oil pan gasket-garbage, went and got Felpro, distributor gasket- not included, valvcover gaske-garbage cork. so I spent another $100 on better gaskets, if I would known that before i would have gotten manifold and Head gaskets. Oh well live and learn.
the machinist's labor would have been ~ $2k, but being who i am, i got a better deal.
was planning to drive jeep to work on monday, will drive Maxima, since even shifting the manual in Goat hurts my hand.
enjoy pictures!
http://www.facebook.com/r.php?i=1&invid ... BAY32ESREV

Hello, group!
happy New Year.
Well I am happy to report that engine is in and for exception of a few issues I am done.
Known issues: warped intake- my fault, just crappy part and my fault again. Let me explain; I put the intake/exhaust manifolds and when I started tq in sequence in steps on 7th bolt i believe i broke the closest to firewall ear off since i was not fully on the dowel. I corrected issues and snugged it all up.
I put the serp drive, PS pump, tensioner, and only after that I final TQed - I know I am dumb@$$ but i was not thinking...
when i threw a check engine code and car was idleing at 2k with injector pulses sky high and unable to kill the engine by covering the T-body it was obvious that i have a BIG intake leak. This time I have undone serp drive, all the bolts and used another new gasket.... well poop after tqed everything to spec i still idle at 1400. squirting f brake clean around bolt #1 and 7 i believe ( in TQ sequence, essentially the middle top and one right of it) my rpm drops to 750 or so...
I know where i can get a '00 intake from pull and save for like @0 so hopefully it will be there when it gets warmer.
Casey's valve cover worked like a charm, thanks Silver XJ for heads up!!!
PVC or i should say emission elbox + gromets from dealer =$60...yikes
to find out that NAPA carried identical stuff, just didn't list in the computer abd woul have cost me $14.
160F t-stat... well will see in the summer in last 2 days i regret it... ( ~15F). with 180 I could get HOT air, border line of scortching, with 160F i got warm/hot... surely it is ok, will see.
Now to the main item stroker.....
sorry if i sound like a middle school girl, but OMG, YOU WOULD HAVE TO DRIVE IT to understand!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
previously i would be hanging around in the right most lane, in the mountain pass I would be in the right lane with 4-way flashers and 18-wheelers with their flashers would be passing me ( yep I was going ~30mph). in city i would stay behind school bus, dump truck and would try to match their acceleration, usually they would win. Now I feel I actually can beat the traffic, I actually keep the rpms under 3k for right now (190 miles on the motor only). but i can hit 80 mph without 4 mile 6% downgrade with tale winds... I actually can get to 80mph within a block!
I am loving it! jeep always was a fun vehicle, but i dare to say now i have FUN driving it to the trail, not only trail.
as far as budget, well I decided that I need to put fresh batteries, since dual stack batteries is pain to get to in my jeep, so optima deep marine gels $400...
basically nickel and dime myself in last week for another $200-300
got the gavin ent swing out tire carrier and expedition rack ( i am not counting that in to my budget)... i need to drive my jeep or i will keep buying parts...
so the buttom line for THE MOTOR+ related accessories has to be ~ $6k ( still cheaper than a shrink).
oh yeah t-stat housing was cracked, finally nailed it, but in process wasted 2 gallons of fluid and with dye penetrant and black light found the stupied leak-very small crack in the housing.
Well I will report back with some more miles, but for now- keep the shiny side up!
ilber

I would change that 160 t-stat out for at least a 180* or even a stock 195*

i was afraid that i would be running hot with the stroker, but it is a 10 minutes to do, when it is a tad warmer... I had 180 and I believe it was awesome... I did remove my condenser when I removed A/C and at that time i switched to 180* and for last 5 years was very happy. 160 seemed like a good time to try, unfortunatly I think I get more issues; #1 as I said, yep I am russian but i need to be warm/hot when it is cold out , #2 I even threw "cold operating temp code", my fuel trim is super rich and that's with adjustable FPR at 42# and ford racing injectors...
will give it a little bit more try, but for now the negatives outweight positives....
Chris, what's you argument for 195*?
I am non emission area, so running richier is not a killjoy...
ilber

The PCM likes to run it at 195*. There is also a debate if there will be any extra engine wear on 180* vs. 195*. Richer isn't always better too. Modern fuel also burns best at a higher temp. I doubt you will notice any performance loss by going with a 180* or 195* t-stat. Your mileage will probably also improve and the engine will run cleaner. If you want extra power in the cooling department go with electric fans.

Also, if you have over heating problems with a 195* t-stat you will have over heating issues with the 160 or 180* t-stat. The stroker should run hot for the first few 100 or so miles as parts wear in, but not over heat hot. If you do have over heating issues with the stroker you need to address whatever issue is causing the cooling problem.. clogged radiator, bad water pump, etc.