TurboTom wrote:Just a couple of thoughts...and I am just trying to help.
The 2001 coil pack works a little weird compared to most others. It has a common ground and you have to switch the power on and off for it to fire.
Also it not really a strong sparker either. That's what I found out attempting to build a stand alone ignition for the coil pack.
There is no more load on the cam gear as you have to run the oil pump anyway and the dizzy takes nothing really.
Coil packs do not make anymore power than a dizzy.
I was debating between the 2001 coil packs and GM HEI, which in my mind seems like a better way to go.
TurboTom wrote:That turbo is a waste of your time for your goals. It is sized for a 1.6 -2.0 liter
It will probably make boost at just above idle, and blow up at 4000 rpm.
Then little bits of turbo wheel will go into your newly built engine.
I know you already own it, I own a hornets nest, but I'm not installing it in my car.
lol. Believe me I know it's a waste of time, but wanted to have some fun with it.
TurboTom wrote:Build your exhaust to take a birficated housing and take advantage of the firing order.
My split housing is a 1.15 A/R
I will be making a similar housing to what you created off the stock header.
Thanks for the inputs
The real input I will need for you will come into play when I get megasquirt going. I will be getting everything running on the stock Renix system and then migrate over to the MSii system. I think the main thing will be getting the spark to work correctly.
Last edited by nick on September 22nd, 2009, 2:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
For the Bonneville truck we used Chevy coil packs from a 2006 Tahoe 6.0L. It is a very hot spark, and the coils are available for about $25.00 each on Ebay.
If you computer will support coil per cylinder, this is the best bang for the buck, plus you do not need a distributor.
On the subject of the oil pump, depending on how high you rev, the stock or high output pump may not be able to keep up. You mightt want to look at an external pump setup with an oil cooler.
Peter Lechtanski
The worlds Fastest Comanche Prroject
Plechtan wrote:For the Bonneville truck we used Chevy coil packs from a 2006 Tahoe 6.0L. It is a very hot spark, and the coils are available for about $25.00 each on Ebay.
If you computer will support coil per cylinder, this is the best bang for the buck, plus you do not need a distributor.
On the subject of the oil pump, depending on how high you rev, the stock or high output pump may not be able to keep up. You mightt want to look at an external pump setup with an oil cooler.
Good info. I remember glancing over the coil section of megamanual.
I already plan on running an oil cooler and external pump for increased oil flow.
im not building as wild as you three (nick TT and pletchtan) but i am planning to use a megasquirt system too and thought about the GM HEI as well. i wonder how well it would work?
So in 3 weeks I'll have my 285* 544 lift roller cam, springs, Ferrea ceramic coated valves, roller lifters, push rods, timing gear set, 34cc ceramic coated slugs and nitrated Eagle rods.
Gradon is now at 12th hour of an estimated 20 hour port 'n' polish job. I dare say he is more aggressive than the other port jobs I have seen. Today the long Ferrous carbide bits from Summit Racing came in. Here are some pics of him working and before and after shots.
deffinaly getting there.. As for your welder choice feel free to ask me anything you have questions. I tig 95% of everything i do but some things such as our unibodys have a lot of coatings and such that make tiging a pain in the ass and mig is alot faster and easier.. but it all depends on wht you are trying to weld.
to many projects not enough time.
2000 xj stock and begging for me to build it
amcinstaller wrote:im not building as wild as you three (nick TT and pletchtan) but i am planning to use a megasquirt system too and thought about the GM HEI as well. i wonder how well it would work?
You can get a HEi distributor for an AMC 6, but they are designed for Vacuum and centrifugal advance. the IFSJA.org site has a thread about using an HEI distributor with the GM TBI. the conversion would be similar to use the distributor with the megasquirt.
Accel makes a distributor for Jeep that generates a Crank position as well as a Cam position signal. the part number is 77242
You should look at total costs. if you buy a megasquirt for $450.00 Hei distributor for $100.00 convert it and add the 7 pin module $100?, get a wiring harness and other stuff $250?
Haltech has a new CPU, the Sprint 500 which will support wasted spark and sells for about $900.00 with a wiring harness. You would have to use high impedance injectors. Total cost would probably end up be close to purchasing a megasquirt fully assembled and piecing together the rest.
Last edited by Plechtan on September 23rd, 2009, 8:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
Peter Lechtanski
The worlds Fastest Comanche Prroject
They're not done yet. Still need to be scotch padded with the mediums and then the fine pads. We also will match the ports to the gasket. The Intake is already complete. Will post pictures up of both after head is complete. Overall about 70% complete. Maybe 2-3 more sessions on the head to complete.
TurboTom wrote:Just a couple of thoughts...and I am just trying to help.
The 2001 coil pack works a little weird compared to most others. It has a common ground and you have to switch the power on and off for it to fire.
Also it not really a strong sparker either. That's what I found out attempting to build a stand alone ignition for the coil pack.
There is no more load on the cam gear as you have to run the oil pump anyway and the dizzy takes nothing really.
Coil packs do not make anymore power than a dizzy.
I was debating between the 2001 coil packs and GM HEI, which in my mind seems like a better way to go.
TurboTom wrote:That turbo is a waste of your time for your goals. It is sized for a 1.6 -2.0 liter
It will probably make boost at just above idle, and blow up at 4000 rpm.
Then little bits of turbo wheel will go into your newly built engine.
I know you already own it, I own a hornets nest, but I'm not installing it in my car.
lol. Believe me I know it's a waste of time, but wanted to have some fun with it.
TurboTom wrote:Build your exhaust to take a birficated housing and take advantage of the firing order.
My split housing is a 1.15 A/R
I will be making a similar housing to what you created off the stock header.
Thanks for the inputs
The real input I will need for you will come into play when I get megasquirt going. I will be getting everything running on the stock Renix system and then migrate over to the MSii system. I think the main thing will be getting the spark to work correctly.
Just run a stock dizzy and an MSD
Don't listen to me about the turbo and ruin a good engine
Why waste your time with the stock ECU, start off with the MegaSquirt. You will use nothing you try to learn from the stock system, it is a complete waste of time/money.
I have the quickest AMC 6 cylinder car in the country....but you probably won't listen to me
Remember, Sometimes I post after drinking!
1979 AMC Spirit
Building a Turbo 2.5
I am not very smart!
He is going to use the megasquirt--he just might use the renix to break in the engine before the turbo. He is going to use a dizzy(don't know which one yet). I don't know ish about turbos so what turbo would you recommend for this build(would a turbo from a ford 5.0 build be comparable)? 6Krpm is going to be the max.
Why would you break the engine in without the turbo? Before you pick a turbo you need to have some real world plans for how the engine will be used. What are the lowest RPMs the engine will see, how hard do you want the power to hit, how will the engine be driven? Break in of an engine takes about an hour on the dyno...not 500 miles as some people believe.
You ask if a turbo from a 5.0 Ford build would be compatable? Could be, depends on the build and intended usage. I have seen Turbo's as big as pumpkins on a 5.0!
5000 rpm stall converter, shift at 8500, probably will make good power. Put that same turbo on a street car....it's a pig. I would say a 55-65 mm T-04 frame turbo with a birficated
1.15 -1.25 A/R exhaust housing would be a good place to start. After all perameters of the engine are set, call Garrett.
Titan motorsports runs a 3 liter Toyota Supra 6 cylinder engine at 62 pounds of boost and makes 2200HP at 10,000rpm. With street cams
My advice is to forget the custom crank (doubt if that ever happens), roller cam, and work on the fuel and intake (turbo) system .
Remember, Sometimes I post after drinking!
1979 AMC Spirit
Building a Turbo 2.5
I am not very smart!
To me it always seemed easier to break in the engine on the stock system without the turbo, then get the engine to run properly on the MS and then add the turbo and get it to run with that. It seems to me that doing it in stages would definitely take more time and probly money, but for a first timer I would be able to isolate and identify any potential problems that occur.
Now I can be like all those other awesome people with more than one Jeep in their sig, but now I have to say one of them is sold:(
97 XJ 4.6
90 MJ 4.0 - sold
I want to have as many Jeeps as children. DD, offroader, drag MJ and another one. 4=4
I agree, The engine needs the first 20 miles to be beaten on going up and down a decent rpm range to get the rings broken into loading. I dont see paying a dyno to break in an engine very efficent when you have a street that your taxes pay for already. There is no advantage to breaking the engine in with the turbo. But if he is on a bad tune with a turbo he could see issues in the future. So i dont see whats wrong taking a safe route when you dont have a premade map. Those big pumkins would be useless on a car maxing out like this, i remember from my supra i put a slightly larger turbo on and it would be in its power range for a good 1500rpms and i'd need to shift. He isnt going to blow that T3 to smitherines as long as the wastegate is working properly so his engine will be fine.
For an SCCA track car thats not going to see WOT constantly your going to want quick boost pressure so i'd say smaller twin turbos and getting a good horsepower range instead of useless dynoqueen power. IMO
