New 4.6L stroker build

[the_wrench116]

Good luck once again silver. hope that things behave for you this time.

[YJason]

Good luck Silver, I know what you are going thru. I had to have my stroker redone after installing it also.

Me> < machine shop owner

[the_wrench116]

what is it thats so different about a strait 6 that gives them\use so many problems?

[YJason]

My machine shop thought a stock style Cloyes timing chain would drive a performance cam and HD valve springs

I called Cloyes myself and told them what happened and the first question he asked was are you running a performance cam and HD valve springs? Me , yes. Cloyes, Its not designed for that much load and thats why it stripped all the teeth off your crank timing gear.

trying to tell the MS owner he f'ed up was like

sorry for the hi jack Silver

Hows the assembly going?

[SilverXJ]

Last night I degreed the cam in. What a pain it was this time. First time around it was more that 13* off. I knew that 13* was the number for just being off one tooth from the first install. I moved the one tooth and it was 2* advanced from the cam sheet. So I adjusted that out with the timing... but obviously didn't do that 100% right because it was off two teeth this time. So I fixed that and then it was right where it should be. Keep in mind that each time I adjusts the timing chain I need to remove the degree wheel, adjust, re attach the degree wheel and then find TDC again. Then I stood around debating if I should retard it 2* more to give me a bit more upper rpm power. Decided not to. By that time it was getting colder and I was hungry so I packed up for the night.

Tonight was warmer so I put a radiant heater under the block as I was a bit concerned about torquing the rod bolts down with the block being so cold. Which also mean I also lost the halogen light I use and only had the ceiling light. With the two heaters going(for some reason the kerosene one takes 30 minutes to fully light) I closed up the timing cover and harmonic balancer. And of course the balancer installer/removal tool I rented didn't have the correct crank adapter so that didn't work. I just tapped it on a bit then sucked it in with the bolt. It was also missing a bolt for removal but I had my puller with me. Once that was done I flipped it over and torqued down the rod bolts and main girdle. I debated putting on the head, but that meant I would need to clean both mating surfaces up and then install and torque down the bolts and it was already 7pm. Plus I haven't checked deck clearance yet. So I cleaned up and left.

[YJason]

IIRC, your doing this in a storage unit right?

[SilverXJ]

Yes. 10'x20'. Very well ventilated.

[the_wrench116]

at lest the beer stays cold

[SilverXJ]

Yesterday was a warm 36* after work. After checking the deck clearance I dumper the lifters on, cleaned the head and block mating surfaces, and put the head on. Today was a sweltering 39*. I checked the torque on the head bolts, installed the push rods and set the preload on the lifters. Once I was done with that I installed the water pump and pulley, then the engine brackets and finally the oil filter adapter. I still need to flip it over and install the oil pump and give things a final torque down there. Then I think I have a few minor items to attend to and I can drop it int he vehicle. No pics this time as its just wash rinse repeat.

Today was the first time I took a close look at the rockers after I got them back from Harland Sharp for service. Not only did they charge me half price for replacing the bearings and cleaning them due to contamination but they also gave me a new set of bolts for them and even put them in numbered bags which corresponded to their original place on the engine(I sent them in numbered bags, which was for my own use). They have excellent support and are one company I would use again.. too bad they don't sell other engine parts for our use... unlike Isky.

[SilverXJ]

Wednesday I buttoned the engine up. Oil pump in, checked pick up clearance and rear baffle clearance, oil filter adapter on, dipstick tube on, oil pan on. Cleaned up the storage unit a bit then left.

Thursday I put the engine in. Got it bolted with two bolts to the transmission then pulled it apart again because i wanted to grease the area in the crank where the torque converter sits. I have never heard of this being done but while trying to find torque figures for the bell housing bolts to the engine the FSM says to do it. With my history of the knocking sound I decided to do it. Hopefully that knock was coming from an obstruction in the cooler lines as I didn't find anything else wrong. I redid my cooler and lines using Parker high temp lines and AN fittings, and put in a filter as well.

I'm still waiting on my modified seat mounts back from the welder.

Something else I have been working on:

[thecrew2999]

wow man i can finally tell my friend i found someone with worse luck....

i think i would have made sure my insurence was full coverage and burnt the thing to the ground then started from scratch....


i cant believe the luck your having it just amazes me...

i hate to ask but what do you have invested in this project now?

[SilverXJ]

too much

[SilverXJ]

This weekend was quite warm so I got some work done. I had tried to make a heat shield for the intake manifold. I had to hack it up to make it fit with the header. I got it to fit around the exhaust manifold by which time it was pretty well hacked up. The next problem came when I tried to fit the fuel line. The line ended up hitting the shield at which point I decided to scrap the idea. About 2 hours wasted there. I had the radiator in and for some reason the fan shroud wasn't fitting 100%. Turns out that the placement of the transmission filter I installed interfered with the shroud. Out came the skillsaw and I removed some of the shroud. The filter mount is still about 2-3" from the fan, so I don't understand why the shroud is so large. Not too worried about that because I plan to go with 3 electric fans. I placed the filter so it would be easy to remove and for the best hose routing. I didn't anticipate the fan shroud.

Just finished up assembling the last of the transmission lines.. those push-lok fittings are no joke. You need to heat the hose up(not just tap water hot.. like boiling hot), lube up the AN fitting (i used soap) and push very hard. Push-lok my ass... should be put-all-your-weight-on-lok. I have no fear of these every coming apart.

I'm done with the wrenches until I Put the spark plugs in and cam sensor. Now all that needs to be done is plug the wiring harness in, attach the fuel line, install the cooling hoses and fill the cooling system. I don't think I will be working on it tomorrow as I have a dentist appointment to take care of a cavity I have. The forecast for Tuesday and Wednesday look good though. Maybe I will break in the cam in on Wednesday, but I don't know. I would rather wait for a really nice day (like today was) to start it. I don't like the idea of starting it from so cold to break the cam in. As the the date to start it gets closer I get more nervous. I hope it holds together this time.

[go4lo]

Just read through your whole build thread and all I can say is WOW!!! You have much more patience than I would have ever had. I REALLY hope it runs right for you this time around.

[SilverXJ]

Its 99% back together. However, its still cold here. The break in oil is straight 30 weight. I don't want to break it in in this cold weather on such a heavy oil. I can wait until a nice day (when!?!?) of I could have it towed to my machine shop on Friday (if their bay is open) and then break it in Saturday morning. I'm thinking about doing the later.. but I don't know.

The transmission cooler hoses are done. I'll post some pics later of it.

Whats left:
Fill sump with oil, prime engine, put valve cover on, drop cam sensor in, bleed the fuel system, fire it up and break the cam in.

-Chris