Jeep Strokers

All my main caps have numbers cast on, so I know they're all facing the correct direction. Will report back after everything is back together.

You can only put #7, the rear cap, on one way. Then you can see how the other #s will have to face. As said, w/o spark plugs, the crank should turn easy--even w/ a 1/2" ratchet. Hopefully you have plenty of assembly lube in there.

With the full valve train and pistons in it won't turn over that easily.

Well I loosened the mains and turned it to make sure everything was looking good. It was, but it looked like two of the valves weren't fully closing so I took the valve train out and then tried to turn it to see what the lifters were doing. Wouldn't budge. Loosened the rods. It was very sticky and it would only move it jerky movements, not a smooth rotation. Do I need to take the caps off and re-lube everything? I know there's no way that if I were to go torque it down now the crank would move at all. The crank has standard size journals and I checked every one of the bearings that went in as being standard as well. Am I over thinking this?

did you make sure and put oil in the cylinders when you put the pistons in. if the cyl walls are dry its donna turn hard. after i build any engine i take and put some oil in the holes and then turn it over a time or two just to help with not taking out the rings on start up. it will smoke when first started but all fresh engines do.

or you may have a lifter the binds somewhere.

It's my hope that the cylinders are just wiping the bores dry rather than lifter problems, especially since the rocker arms weren't on on when it started getting really difficult to turn. I know assembly lube has been seeping from everywhere. I may just take the main and connecting caps off and just throw some more in there. I cleaned the cylinder bores and then covered them in oil as I put each piston in. I guess it's worth a shot to re oil the bores, and keep the turning to a minimum, or at least re-oil them as needed. It just makes me really nervous when it barely moves; I know it will tear up my starter and everything else attached to the Jeep.

I poured oil down the cylinder bores from the top and from the bottom. Once upside down I saw....a backward #1 main cap. Idiot. I took it off immediately since I knew it was wrong. Everything turned like butter. I put the cap back on (the right way) and it's still good. Big question now: I rotated the engine about 10-15 times overall. Maybe 20. Do I need to replace the bearing?

maybe for peace of mind so you won't ever ?

gradon wrote:maybe for peace of mind so you won't ever ?

x1000000000000000000000000000000

Q - Anyone know who sells one bearing?
A - It looks like online OEM parts distributors will sell you one standard bearing, upper and lower.

Should I do the upper and lower?

I the the bearing will be fine. Its not like you tried to shove it in the wrong side of the bearing cap/block. I haven't found anyone that sells a single bearing besides the dealer.. well, they list it, but a single bearing from them would cost as much as a complete set of other bearings.

autozone and orielly's used to sell single bearings. i only know this because orielly's had 3 in stock and autozone had 3 in stock when i tried to "refresh" my old motor

Well I got the new bearing and installed it - for peace of mind if nothing else. After adding oil to the cylinder it turned beautifully. I torqued all the main caps in order and torque sequence, verifying I could still turn it each time. Everything felt great. Now the engine is ready to be mated to the trans, and installed. Then I couldn't move my back. Gotta lift with the legs next time...

I got it all together today and started it up. Caught on the first try with minimal cranking, so that was good. Found out that over a year of sitting I've lost the gauges, so I had to turn it off almost immediately. At least I know it all went together correctly. I hate electrical stuff.

Try hitting the dash. Last time mine sat the driver's side window started having problems.