Jeep Strokers

There is no way you will run lean during break in. The engine will be in closed loop for all but thirty seconds.

Using junkyard injectors is also a bad idea as they have sat around a while and the fuel gums up. Unless you have them cleaned prior I wouldn't use them for a first start.

I am planning to get a rebuild kit for the injectors.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-4-0-I6-Fue ... cd&vxp=mtr

That isn't addressing the problem of gas and other dirt gumming up the injector mechanism.

Would it be affective to run the stockers for break in with the stock tb?... If you think I'll be running lean then I think I'll just wait for the right parts... 65mm tb and 24lb injectors. I got the tb today for 30 bucks on ebay. I'll probably wait till I can afford the intake adapter to match. But just for break in... where I never hit WOT and there is no load? Stock tb and injectors?

Go ahead and run the stock stuff for breakin. Even if the engine did run lean, which isn't going to happen, there is no load.

I ran the stock injectors for some time on my stroker. I just didn't do full rpm/hi load runs which would need more fuel.
The stock injectors would be fine for break in, which doesn't need a lot of fuel flow.
I did notice the smaller stock injectors ran lean for the first minute or so of a cold start,producing a rough idle. It'll take a minute or so for the O2 sensors to warm up and for the computer to go to closed loop and richen things up.

As I went to drop it in i recalled reading a post about a cps being a real pain to change. Well I'm looking right at it so I'm going to hold off and replace the cps as long as its easy to get at. The old one has 212,000 miles on it.

I've heard the same thing about people bitching about changing it. Using the right 1/4" ratchet, extension, and wobble its easy. It is a prime target for failure in the 4.0L engine, and replacement isn't a bad idea. However, another thing to consider is that it is easy to bump when installing the engine. That little bump against the flex plate could cause it to fail. It happened to me once and the OBDII codes said something to the effect that the coil didn't reach dwell in the correct time.

I removed my cps while I installed the engine then put it back after the engine was mounted. Just remember if you reuse a used sensor you need a cardboard sticker for the end of the sensor from the dealer to set the clearance. If you get a new sensor it will come with it so don't remove it!

cheers

Chris

Good idea purple. I will remove the old one while I install the engine and then replace the old on with a new unit once the engine is back in.

It was/is a long, slow process doing this by myself. And I still don't have the damn thing lined up right. I don't know how I'm going to get the Torque Converter holes lined up with the fly wheel holes. For the time being the motor mounts are in, but I think I'll be taking them back off to help line up the TC and FW. I just thought I would post a few pictures during the assembly process.

No point in attempting to line the converted bolts up now. Push the convert into the transmission as far as it will go for now. Get the engine mounted to the transmission and engine mounts. Then pull the converter toward the flex plate (not flywheel) and locate the first hole. Put bolt in and tighten until snug. Back bolt off enough to let the converter float. Rotate engine to next one. Put bolt in, but don't tighten all the way. Continue until all bolts are in and loose. Now start tightening them.

That worked great Silver. I put the two side and one top bell housing bolts in first, just hand tight so the Torque Converter would line up with the flex plate. Then I was able to get a finger on the torque Converter to spin it through the starter hole. I spun it till I saw the first Torque Converter boss and the rest is history. Tonight I will tackle the rest of the bell housing bolts. I think I will take out the motor mount bolts to drop the engine as low under the hood as possible making it as easy as possible to access the top bell housing bolts and the CPS. It should be running this weekend.

Good tech information and damn that engine is colorful and bright. Should be way easy to see if something is off color/leaking (except radiator fluid).

Any last words of wisdom? She is about to breath fire. I'll post a video If I can figure out how.