Jeep Strokers

You'll need the '91-:95 TB, '91-'95 injector rail and, since this is a very mild stroker build, a set of Accel 21lb injectors (150621) would probably suffice.

good day just want to make a comment about needing the older throttle body because the map sensor ...you can use a new throttle body with map sensor on the throttle body ...just remove the map sensor thats on the tb and hook up the map thats on the fire wall ..did it with mine ..no issues..if you have any questions or would like pics of how i did mine my email is [email protected]

Strokers with the stock Renix ECU can be tricky. I can't recommend too highly that you get an AFR gauge with a wide band ECU. The biggest issue you need to monitor is how rich or lean your engine is running. I have seen quite a few strokers fail due to running too lean or way too rich. I built an adjustable MAP sensor supply to dial the mixture, but a friend of mine found an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and I am thinking of converting. When I nail that down, I will post up the info.

Since you are running the Renix, a cheap change is to convert to the high altitude crankshaft position sensor. It advances the timing a few degrees and for a more performance engine, this is perfect.

I'm looking at Holley Bypass Fuel Pressure Regulator Kits 12-886KIT. Should work nicely. It tracks the vacuum/boost. I am working on an easy way to adapt it to the Renix fuel rail. I may just end up TIG'ing up an adapter or building on a connector to the fuel rail.
Anybody got an extra renix fuel rail they would donate to the cause (or sell cheap)?

Swapping to the later manifold is a good choice. Any 91-06 4.0L throttle body will work for you. I prefer the 96+ to run the MAP on. Here you have two choices, make a bracket and hang the 87-95 MAP sensor, or swap connectors and run the 97-98 MAP (99+ was another connector swap due to pin style changes). I have run both in the past, any both MAP sensors work exactly the same to Renix.
Converting to the 91+ throttle body is quite simple, you just have to hang the TPS, there are several ways to adapt it that can be done at home with basic tooling.
The IAC is plug and play just use the one that matches thw trhottle body (due to closing angle difference of the pintle between 87-90 and 91+).
Keeping the YJ's accessories is a good choice as well, as you retain the stock YJ Saginaw pump, and a higher placement for the alternator. Makes them both easier to get at as a bonus.
The Wrangler (YJ and TJ) pumps may not work for you as they were both serpentine. I would look closely at your stock 4.2L water pump and compare them. There are many parts compatible between the two engines (obviously, this forum is because of that). I'm pretty sure that's the one you'll want.

Also look at the 4.2L thermostat housing, it's a lot less reatrictive that the 4.0L version, but it does have a difference in angle, may be good, or not ... I just wanted to mention it. You did mention parts are hard to come by.

Video of the first start :

https://youtube.com/shorts/wMulMW4dSSw? ... cVxw7J67TL

Its running on idle quite nice. But it pops when i rev it.(indexed distributor right) When it gets warm it goes closed loop and the idel starts to wonder. Ended up using after market fuel regulator and pushed the pressure higher. But now its burning rich..
Need AFR to tune it.

Or maybe just buy maxxECU.

HELP...

I cant figure this out.. Bought AFR gauge..

Cold start. --- Leanish
Getting warmer -- Good range
Throttle-- ultra rich but runs okey.
Idle-- Good range
Soft throttle -- pops and bangs in exhaust

In overall - the Air/fuel mixture seems to be good. Always idling perfect . But throttle changes in every other start result in bangs and pops. Some starts are perfect ... Up to 5krpm no problems...

Does renix ecu has some kind of memory ? Because im used to take the battery terminals of, because i visit my garage once a week..

The MAP sensor has nothing to do with the throttle body, but the TPS might. Use sensors compatible with the ECU/PCM you decide to use.

Not renix, but when my car was running obd1 I had a tps die on me. Rough idle, popping through exhaust on cruising throttle, ran ok at WOT. Got a part store one and it was OK for a week, then it died too. I ended up with an oem one from a wrecker that worked

She just wanted more fuel.

Did an engine swap that was remix. Thing ran like crap total crap. Disconnected the battery again and held the cables together to do a capacitive discharge on the ecm. Reconnect the battery and fired it up. It quickly learned what it needed to and ran fine after that

Just to put it out there. I originally conceived the idea of the poor man's stroker more than 20 years ago when these engines were still relatively new and it was possible to save some cash by reusing the original stock cam.
Nowadays you'd need to replace the original cam anyway if you build a stroker so there's no such thing as a poor man's stroker anymore. In fact the cost of either building or buying a stroker is so high now that it's more cost effective to do a 5.3L LS V8 swap with those engines being so common and inexpensive.
Long gone are the days when you could find a cheap used 258 crank in eBay. Even the 231 cranks used to build a 4.1/4.2 mini stroker have become scarce.