Jeep Strokers

dwg86 wrote:Does your idler pulley bolt to the front of your head? If it does, a older style head wont work unless you get all the brackets from the earlier engine. That = more money. So you might want to get a head from a later engine(2003-2006), or get from Alabama cylinder head. Or use yours and hope it doesn't crack.

its a simple matter for the machine shop to tap a hole in the appropriate spot.

Plechtan wrote:I have heard about the cracking problem with the 331 head, but i really wonder what percentage of them failed? And if a head has been in use for 8 years and not failed, what are the odds that it will fail in the near future? So do you spend $500 on a new cylinder head assuming that your old head will fail?
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Why use a component that can fail??

any component CAN fail. its a question of when. if hes been using this head for 8 years, and is 100 percent sure its not cracked, why not use it to keep the cost down? the only thing missing from this equation is the mileage on the vehicle. according to this survery here (http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/sh ... p?t=721472 and im not using this as the bible) majority of failures were between 62 to 92 thousand miles, in the XJ models. i know this isnt every jeep ever made by far, but for the results here, there was only 1 single WJ failure mentioned.

id say use it, to keep the cost down. if youre concerned, have it checked out.

SilverXJ wrote:Why use a component that can fail??

Last time i checked, almost any component can fail. I believe what you are talking about is a component that has a high failure rate. I stick by what i said, look at the odds. I have had brand new oparts fail in a short period of time. An argument could be made to go with something proven rather than somthing that has an unknown history.

not to toot my own horn, but you have exactly what I had...take a look at my build in the projects sections...I did it for right around what you want to spend. I think I am hovering at the $1500 mark...but I didn't need an overbore, just a hone....

Bratcop

Plechtan wrote: Last time i checked, almost any component can fail. I believe what you are talking about is a component that has a high failure rate. I stick by what i said, look at the odds. I have had brand new oparts fail in a short period of time. An argument could be made to go with something proven rather than somthing that has an unknown history.

Having brand new parts fail that have a proven reliable record is one thing. Putting something that is proven to fail on a new block and hoping that it won't fail is another thing and a bad idea. As he said it is his daily driver and looking for reliability, not his weekend play toy which he can afford a failure on. $300 on a used head with a 3 angle valve job now is cheaper than the new head + block repair down the line when the head does let go and the coolant mixes with the oil.

bratcop wrote:not to toot my own horn, but you have exactly what I had...take a look at my build in the projects sections...I did it for right around what you want to spend. I think I am hovering at the $1500 mark...but I didn't need an overbore, just a hone....

Bratcop

I read your build...great stuff and it should really help me out. Do you think you could have used stock injectors instead of the 24lb?

I've got my fingers crossed that it just needs re-honed...but if it needs overbored, then so be it.

What year jeep is the engine out of? There really hasn't been enough data to conclude which year has the crack proned heads, although it seems to be 2000-2001 era....

Mgardiner1 wrote:What year jeep is the engine out of? There really hasn't been enough data to conclude which year has the crack proned heads, although it seems to be 2000-2001 era....

Check the Subject

good GAWD what a dummy....... lol funny part is i scanned through most of the thread looking for that answer..... that will teach me to post when i roll out of bed in the AM

I don't think stock injectors would have worked on my build, as I match ported and relief ported the intake runners and manifold and polised the exhaust runners. I think that along with the bored TB will make it breath better and therefore require more gas. I have had no O2 sensor CEL thusfar and the thing idles like a dream, so I think I found the right combination. We expected it to be hunting a bit at idle to find the correct fuel mix, but that is definately not the case.

I got the injectors on ebay for $75 for a set of rebuilt EV6 connectors. I think it is worth it for a couple of reasons...they are 4 port injectors which would lead me to believe they create a finer fuel mist and better mixture, as the stocks are one port. Also, they are reconditioned/rebuilt/low mileage, which I know must be better than the stock ones at 95000 miles...

and for the record, I checked the stock valve springs, found them to still be within specs and stayed with them and all stock valvetrain. I have had no problems so far, and I decked the block .030...It saves alot of dough and my quench is around.042 to .048...

Good Luck. Let me know if you need any part numbers as I have a bunch in a spread sheet I created, with approx costs.

If it needs to be bored, big deal, it will only add a bit to the machine cost and will give you more cubes...I would recommend staying with the same block, as it is so much easier to just re-install parts than it is to fabricate brackets and the such. I don't mind that kind of work if you have all the tools at your disposal, but I do not have a fabrication area/shop in my garage....

and let the flames begin, but I reused the 0331 head and still have my fingers crossed...the odds, statistically speaking, have to be in our favor.

Bratcop

OK, tore down the block today and everything is ok to go ahead with the standard size pistons. Do you mind checking my parts list?
4.5L Poor Man's Simple Stroker Parts
4.2 Crank (.20 under mains, .10 under rods) $185
4.2 Rods Reconditioned w/bolts $100 (fingers crossed that this deal goes through!)
Sealed Power 677CP Pistons (standard bore) $150
Timing Chain (Mine was a little slack) $25.50
High Flow Oil Pump (necessary or not?) 83.50
Mopar Performance or VR .040-.043 Head Gasket $40
4.0L Engine Re-Ring kit $269
2.5" Magnaflow Muffler $85

The total parts list comes in right around $940

I already have a hi-flow 2.5" cat and a homebrew K&N intake system. I'd like to get a 63mm TB, but its not in the budget right now, so it'll have to wait.

My friend is charging me $1000 for the labor (since he knows whats going on, and I'm learning). That includes the complete tear down, cleaning everything, port and polish on the head, re-honing the cylinders, and installation. I'm hanging out, watching, learning and lending a hand when possible.

How does that list look? Any recommendations on a place to buy the gasket sets or re-ring kit? Thanks for the help.

I would suggest to get the standard flow oil pump. The HV oil pump is not required and as it has been said before, most likely put a higher load on the cam drive chain and distributor gear.

Whats included in the re-ring kit?

The re-ring kit includes Piston ring set, rod bearing set, main bearing set, & rebuilder gasket set w/rear main. I found a little better price @ $229.

Just make sure the rings in the kit are the correct rings for the 677CP pistons.... There are "metric" and "standard" rings