cylinder bore question

[dwg86]

Found a 12 cw crank for 225$ CND including rod and main bearings. I'm going to pick it up this week or next. I will be removing my cylinder head tomorrow, and probly the pistons, rods and crank too. I'll try to post some pics soon.

If it's a crank kit for a 258, the mains won't work. You need main bearings for a 4.0.

[John]

Check this link, Flash and I kinda but you will find answers.viewtopic.php?f=5&t=199&p=2124&hilit=rod+length#p2124
John

[dwg86]

Ok, another question comes to mind : After decking the block, and when all is ready to assemble, will I need stock length pushrods, or shorter ones? How do I measure the exact length I need? Is it OK to put shims under the bridges if my pushrods are too long?

I haven't built mt engine yet, but from what I've read, you will need shorter pushrods or shim the rockers. Either is OK.

[Exos]

Check this link, Flash and I kinda but you will find answers.viewtopic.php?f=5&t=199&p=2124&hilit=rod+length#p2124
John

So if I understand correctly (I'm french speaking, so sometimes I don't get everything...), I need to buy a "check pushrod" and have custom ones made?

[Exos]

Stock pushrod length is 9.640-9.660... So let's say 9.650. If I deck the block to zero, I should be shaving around 0.030. So 9.650 minus 0.030 = 9.620... now, Hesco sells pushrods of 9.622 length for the 4.2l. Would'nt that be the perfect match?

http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=det ... catId=7758

[Exos]

Anyone?


In the meantime, here's my parts list so far :

Block : got it (93)
Pistons : need KB944 0,060 oversize
crankshaft : 3214723 (12 cw) got it
crankshaft spacer : 1 cm (from old pulley?) or cut crank 1 cm (done, crank cut)
crank rear main seal, oil pan seal : need
rods : from block if good
rod and main bearings : with crank
Pilot bearing : need pilot bearing with sleeve 53009180AB (1.82" OD x 0.75" ID)
Fuel injectors : need (ford racing 24 lbs?)
camshaft + bearings : need (comp 232-4?)
harmonic damper : need one
freeze plugs :need
head gasket : need Mopar Performance P4529242 / Victor Reinz Dana 5713----0.043" or Fel-Pro 9076PT----0.043"

timing gear and chain : reuse if good? Or kit with cam
Lifters : need (comp?)
oil pump: reuse
Flywheel and pressure plate : need

cylinder head : got it , valve job needed and diy porting
pushrods : need some (hesco 9,622?)
valves : reuse if good
valve springs, retainers and locks : need some (comp kit?)
valve stem seals : need some (comp kit?)
rockers : from block if good, Yella Terra roller rockers if I win lottery. (Crower stud mounted an option?)
upper and lower gasket set : need

other mods

exhaust headers + cat back (borla, gibson, rugged ridge?)
63mm throttle body: http://www.strokedjeep.com/tbody.html
throttle body spacer: http://www.strokedjeep.com/tbody.html
piggy-back fuel controller : http://www.alamomotorsports.com/apexi/safc.html#safcneo
4.56 gears

[SilverXJ]

Stock pushrod length is 9.640-9.660... So let's say 9.650. If I deck the block to zero, I should be shaving around 0.030. So 9.650 minus 0.030 = 9.620... now, Hesco sells pushrods of 9.622 length for the 4.2l. Would'nt that be the perfect match?

http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=det ... catId=7758

http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/valvetrain.html

At the very bottom Dino lists different pushrods available. Also, keep in mind that your head gasket thickness will play a part too. Custome length pushrods are also an option. I would see if your machine shop would let you borrow a length checker push rod.

[SilverXJ]

Anyone?


In the meantime, here's my parts list so far :

Block : got it (93)

What years is your XJ? Reason I ask is that the 00-01 are a bit finicky on which blocks can be used.

Pistons : need KB944 0,060 oversize

Have you priced these out yet? When I purchased my pistons the .060s were quite a bit more than the .030 KB944s

crankshaft spacer : 1 cm (from old pulley?) or cut crank 1 cm (done, crank cut)

up to you really

crank rear main seal, oil pan seal : need

one should come with your gasket set

rod and main bearings : with crank

The 258 main bearings that came with your crank will not work with your 4.0L block. You need to get teh correct sized 4.0L main bearings. Also, you may want to notch the rod bearing shell for the oil hole. See in my build.

camshaft + bearings : need (comp 232-4?)

I have ran the 232-4 and the 231-4 and liked both. I would go with the 231-4 but make sure your valve springs can handle the lift on either cam.

head gasket : need Mopar Performance P4529242 / Victor Reinz Dana 5713----0.043" or Fel-Pro 9076PT----0.043"

You won't find the fel pro .043" at least I couldn't. Get the MP one of the Victor Reinz... but there is a new part number for the VR.. look for a tread called "gasket suprise" for the gasket set part number with the VR MLS .043" gasket

timing gear and chain : reuse if good? Or kit with cam

Go with a cloyes dbl roller or JP performance.

oil pump: reuse

I wouldn't reuse the old oil pump

valve springs, retainers and locks : need some (comp kit?)

I wouldn't us the comp kit ones.. I feel as their pressures are too high even at their correct installed height. Find some Mopar Performance valve springs

valve stem seals : need some (comp kit?)

Should come with the gasket set

rockers : from block if good, Yella Terra roller rockers if I win lottery. (Crower stud mounted an option?)

YTs are great, but if you are spending the money on rollers get the adjustable Harland Sharp's and you won't have to worry about push rod length.. or adjustable Yella Terras if you can find them

piggy-back fuel controller : http://www.alamomotorsports.com/apexi/safc.html#safcneo

For that money I would get an FTC instead. Also, you may want to get a wideband afr gauge.

For parts I used mostly Falcon on ebay.

[Exos]

Anyone?


In the meantime, here's my parts list so far :

Block : got it (93)

What years is your XJ? Reason I ask is that the 00-01 are a bit finicky on which blocks can be used.

It's a 98

Pistons : need KB944 0,060 oversize

Have you priced these out yet? When I purchased my pistons the .060s were quite a bit more than the .030 KB944s

No price yet, but I'm in Canada, so it sure will be pricey

crankshaft spacer : 1 cm (from old pulley?) or cut crank 1 cm (done, crank cut)

up to you really

crank rear main seal, oil pan seal : need

one should come with your gasket set

rod and main bearings : with crank

The 258 main bearings that came with your crank will not work with your 4.0L block. You need to get teh correct sized 4.0L main bearings. Also, you may want to notch the rod bearing shell for the oil hole. See in my build.
I got the 4.0 mains swapped in

camshaft + bearings : need (comp 232-4?)

I have ran the 232-4 and the 231-4 and liked both. I would go with the 231-4 but make sure your valve springs can handle the lift on either cam.

head gasket : need Mopar Performance P4529242 / Victor Reinz Dana 5713----0.043" or Fel-Pro 9076PT----0.043"

You won't find the fel pro .043" at least I couldn't. Get the MP one of the Victor Reinz... but there is a new part number for the VR.. look for a tread called "gasket suprise" for the gasket set part number with the VR MLS .043" gasket

timing gear and chain : reuse if good? Or kit with cam

Go with a cloyes dbl roller or JP performance.

oil pump: reuse

I wouldn't reuse the old oil pump Why? Are you suggesting an HV pump?

valve springs, retainers and locks : need some (comp kit?)

I wouldn't us the comp kit ones.. I feel as their pressures are too high even at their correct installed height. Find some Mopar Performance valve springs

valve stem seals : need some (comp kit?)

Should come with the gasket set

rockers : from block if good, Yella Terra roller rockers if I win lottery. (Crower stud mounted an option?)

YTs are great, but if you are spending the money on rollers get the adjustable Harland Sharp's and you won't have to worry about push rod length.. or adjustable Yella Terras if you can find them

piggy-back fuel controller : http://www.alamomotorsports.com/apexi/safc.html#safcneo

For that money I would get an FTC instead. Also, you may want to get a wideband afr gauge. What's an FTC?

For parts I used mostly Falcon on ebay.

[Exos]

Also, I'm a bit confused, as my '98 XJ FSM says this about pushrods : 9.640-9.660" So what's the truth? I guess I'll measure my old ones tomorrow...

[dwg86]

The comp cam springs, retainers, and locks won't work with the stock 8mm round groove valves.

[Exos]

SilverXJ, I have three pending questions :

• -My '98 XJ FSM says this about pushrods : Push Rod Length . . . . . . . .244.856 to 245.364 mm
  (9.640 to 9.660 in.) So what's the truth?
  
  -You said you wouldn't use the old oil pump, are you suggesting/using a HV pump, like Melling?
  
  -You mentionned "FTC" about fuel control, what is it, I did not find anything?

Thanks.

[SilverXJ]

The push rod length in the FSM is an acceptable range of pushrod length. I don't know how much a factory push rod would be off from the next, but it will fall in that range.

I wouldn't recommend a HV pump. Just a new regular pump. I have never heard of a HV pump being needed in these engines and if it is not then it is a waste of power and extra stain on the cam gear to have to turn it.

An FTC (Fuel/Timing Calibrator) is a piggy back computer by Split Second that allows you to adjust the the fuel curve in open loop.
http://www.splitsec.com/products/ftc1/ftc1ds.htm

[Exos]

Thanks for the reply. One more and I leave you alone for a while...

Hesco sells HD valve springs (HESSPRSS6). Are these the same as Mopar perf.? They mention that machining of the head will be required to achieve correct installed height. Do you have to have some machining done with Mopar perf. springs too?

[SilverXJ]

I don't know what springs the Hesco units are, but other springs can be made to work as well. As far as machining for the MP springs, most people don't. I did because they are about 113# seat pressure at installed height (1.64"). I wanted 100#, so I have the seats machined a bit to get them to 100#.