Jeep Strokers

lens_xj wrote:now I have, I see a lot of guys saying they heard that 505 has a problem but I have not seen anyone that has had a problem.
anyway I found there e-mail and I asked the question why and when did there bad reputation start? I mean it is everywhere. I also asked them what they were going to do about it if anything. I am not going to buy anything from any one with that bad of a reputation unless they are doing a lot to make it better. this is one of the reasons I am here you all protect each other. you are not the only one that told me about this
Thank you

I have had a bad experience with 505...

My experience was all his attitude and lack of care or concern for the customers buying his products, I had a few issues but my main problem was they
sold me a stock length pushrod set when I spoke directly with him and told him I needed 20 thou shorter due to my head was decked 20 thou and then
when I addressed the issue I was bitched out by him and told that there are different factory lengths a fact that I was not aware of and he was but yet
he failed to ask me my factory length so my issue could have been easily fixed but he would rather I had sent him back all that I bought and go F$#% off
and buy my parts from someone else who is just reselling his products anyways...

Customer service score from me would be a -10

i see. not good. I would rather pay a couple more $ to a person that at least seems to care the an a-hole that treats me like you know what. is there anyone else that sells the 4.060 crank that they have? I really would love to have that .

anyone know where I can get a 4" crank to put in to a 1998 4.0 stroker build? does anyone make them besides 505 performance ? if that is not possible what is the closest I can get to a 4" crank?

Couple random thoughts.

Why the 4 inch crank ? The engine is limited on the head as it is. Adding more displacement but not being able to feed it is kind of counter productive. Sure it "should" make more power but at a diminishing cost per dollar ratio. YMMV.

If you can supply the rod specs (diameter, length, width etc) I can supply a 12cwt core and have it offset ground. Likely will need custom pistons which can also be sourced here in Michigan.

The 1.7`s will increase the effective cam duration a couple degrees but the biggest benefit will be in the low end. Once the engine gets spinning the inefficiency's of the head and intake will tend to negate some of the potential benefit of the increase valve lift.

Don't take me wrong. I will likely order a set from Russ at some point. With the expected outcome to be a mild boost in the lower RPM "off the cam" performance.

I did get the 1.7 rockers from Russ. they are socking in brake in oil now. I will be putting them on this Friday. I was speaking about a part of the total build. I would like to get as square of a motor as I can, 4" crank and a 4" bore and a head that can handle all this. a cam that will place the power and torque where I need it. but that is way down the line, for now If I am trying to get some easy and quick power. I don't have the time to brake this motor down putting in a cam.
so,it has to be something like the rockers and then later, the cam. at that point I will have to take into account that I have the 1.7 rockers.
I have kind of built this thing in my head and I was really liking the 505 performance 4.060 crank, it looks like it would really help to give me tons of torque. but now I have heard and talked to many sources to be aware of 505 performance (not good parts or people to deal with). that is why I asked if anyone made a 4" crank besides 505 performance.
I just keep looking way down the line.

lens_xj wrote:I would like to get as square of a motor as I can

Mine's square with a 3.895" bore (+0.020") and stroke (standard 258 crank).
Here's the result:

that is the curve I like to see. except for 2 things. starting off earlier and ending about 3oo foot lb.
maybe you can help me on the head.
check out viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5249

lens_xj wrote:that is the curve I like to see. except for 2 things. starting off earlier and ending about 3oo foot lb.

The chassis dyno run was started from 1500rpm but I can tell you that my engine pulls cleanly and strongly from as little as 750rpm.
Maximum torque is 258lbft at the rear wheels or 311lbft at the crank (numbers in sig).
If you're looking for 300lbft at the rear wheels, that's only going to be happening if turbo or supercharge your engine.
I'm running my original stock '92 camshaft with Yella Terra 1.6 roller rockers but I extensively ported my original '92 head and that allows my engine to make decent top end power despite the mild cam. I strongly recommend you read the article at http://www.lcengineering.com/pdf/Head%2 ... asives.pdf if you're going to tackle the head porting yourself.
Static CR is 9.25:1. I also have a free-flowing exhaust (Borla header modified with 3" collector, custom 3" downpipe, Flowmaster center muffler, Magnaflow rear muffler, and Mike Leach 2.5" tailpipe).
On the intake side I have a DIY cold air intake with 7" Powerstack cone filter, modified '93 5.0L Mustang Cobra 65mm throttle body, tapered 65mm to 62mm TB spacer, and '01 XJ intake manifold.
Ignition & fueling is taken care of by a stock '92 PCM, stock Champion RC12LYC plugs, stock fuel pump, stock 39psi FPR, and Ford Racing 24lb/hr injectors.
The Jeep feels a lot quicker than the 1/4 mile numbers would suggest with a pin sharp throttle response and sporty exhaust note. There's never a time I crave for more power and it's still great fun to drive despite being 24 years old. I absolutely love it to bits.

it sounds like you have everything I have been thinking about except for the 4" crank. but not sure I can get that. with the head I am not going to do any port work but not sure what kind of head would be best for me for now and for the long run. aluminum head? form who? how much? can I get a head that would help me get any where close to what you have or what I what with out a blower is there anyone I should get to "customize" the head? all on regular gas
sounds like you have healthier motor then what I am reading into the numbers. maybe I not looking at this to realistically. I would love to get 300 foot lb at 2500 but not with a blower.
thanks for helping me out.

Russ Pottenger

I wouldn't be so stuck on a 'square' engine build. Square can be 3.895" stroke and 3.895" bore (0.020" over).
Better would be 'Over Square' with 3.935" bore (0.060" over) and 3.895" stroke = 4.7L.

Big valve ported head would really pay dividends towards your goal as well as a cam with 0.500+" lift and 9.5:1 compression ratio.

It will still be tough to get over 1.2TQ/CID without higher compression or forced induction.

lens_xj wrote:sounds like you have healthier motor then what I am reading into the numbers. maybe I not looking at this to realistically. I would love to get 300 foot lb at 2500 but not with a blower.
thanks for helping me out.

At 2500rpm I have 246lbft at the wheels or 296lbft at the crank. Even at 1500rpm I have 230lbft at the wheels or 277lbft at the crank. That's plenty enough in a Jeep weighing less than 3500lb.

jeepxj3 wrote:It will still be tough to get over 1.2TQ/CID without higher compression or forced induction

With higher compression, a performance cam, and an Edelbrock head ported by Russ, 1.2lbft per CID is just about achievable. I'm 23lbft short of that goal.

jeepxj3 wrote: ↑April 14th, 2016, 4:25 am The 1.7 roller rockers will add 2-3* duration and 0.025" lift. Your jeap instead of falling on it's face at 3800-4200rpm it will carry out to 4600-4700rpm right where the auto shifts at. Well worth it, easy install.Non-adjustable ones cleared my stock valve cover.

The angle at which the lifter, pushrod, and pushrod side of the rocker does not change. Consequently, the duration does not change. What changes is the rate of change in the lifting and the closing of both valves, and total lift (remember your calculus?). With the intake valves opening and closing quicker, it will increase torque and power because of the wider opening of the valve window. You will have the same increased rate of change with your exhaust valve.

How well your engine breaths will determine how this change will impact your engine, but as long as you have sufficient valve clearances, you should have positive gains.