Jeep Strokers

amceaglesx4 wrote:I just couldn't see the justification of $400+ for pistons myself. I'm going with the 4.2 rods and 677p pistons 60 over.

It was easier for you to use the 4.2 rods 'cause you sourced them from your spare 4.2 engine and they didn't cost anything. Would have been a different story if you had to spend $200+ to buy them from someone else.

I do have 4.2 rods,... they came w/ the 258 crank. From what everything I read, going w/ the 242 rods and the forged pistons is what I decided.

I plan to sell the 4.2 rods - anyone here interested? 258 Rods for Sale

Kahlis wrote:I do have 4.2 rods,... they came w/ the 258 crank. From what everything I read, going w/ the 242 rods and the forged pistons is what I decided.

I plan to sell the 4.2 rods - anyone here interested? 258 Rods for Sale

I think you're a bit high at $250.00 for 4.2 rods.
By the time you ship, put bolts in it,and resize, you'll have more money in these rods then a steel 6.125 Scat I-beam Rod's bushed.

Price was based on two eBay sales.

Are you buying? Got a better price in mind?

Pistons getting machine, shipping the first week of February. The engine is bored .60 over; just waiting on the piston to hone the block. Also got my 258 crank there getting turned.

Quick question about cams. The recommended cam Comp Cam 68-231-4, says not recommended for fuel injected Jeeps on Summitracing. Also there is a lot of talk, on other people's topics, about some cams will not work with later or early engines depending on a cam pin,... maybe I'm nuking this, but what IS the best cam for my build?

'91 block, .60 over
258 crank
242 rods
Bulltear forged pistons, compression height 1.380", dish volume 28cc
9.25:1 CR
Stock #0630 cylinder head (57cc chamber)
Mopar/Victor 0.043" head gasket
Dodge Neon EV6 injectors

Kahlis wrote:The recommended cam Comp Cam 68-231-4, says not recommended for fuel injected Jeeps on Summitracing. Also there is a lot of talk, on other people's topics, about some cams will not work with later or early engines depending on a cam pin

It'll work fine and drop straight into any 4.0L engine (or stroker based on it) from '87-'98. The 68-231-4 cam will produce good torque from idle to 5000rpm and has excellent street manners. It won't work inside a '99+ engine unless you use either a '94-'98 OEM timing set or an aftermarket timing set with the earlier style recessed cam bolt/spring/pin with matching washer.

Ok, thanks.

Perchance, are there any cams that'll give a noticeable cam growl that I can safely use? I know I'm not building a V8, but something can be said about a cammed engine!

If you're looking for growl you should think about installing a custom 2.5" downpipe, 2.5" high flow cat, and 2.5" performance catback exhaust.
A bigger cam will produce more engine lope at idle but not a growl.

Guess I didn't explain well enough, or at least, didn't use the right descriptive word. lol

I did mean lopy (spelling?). I already have a 50 series Flowmaster on factory exhaust that has a pretty nice growl.

What is the biggest cam I can put in it? I already have another ECU that I plan to have retuned. Not looking forward to the additional cost, but hey - go big or go home.

Kahlis wrote:Guess I didn't explain well enough, or at least, didn't use the right descriptive word. lol

I did mean lopy (spelling?). I already have a 50 series Flowmaster on factory exhaust that has a pretty nice growl.

What is the biggest cam I can put in it? I already have another ECU that I plan to have retuned. Not looking forward to the additional cost, but hey - go big or go home.

You could go as big as the 68-239-4 cam but you'll lose low rev torque, sacrifice idle quality, and the MAP sensor won't like the low idle vacuum. You'll also need to raise the static compression ratio (smaller piston dish) to get some decent low rev response.

Ultimately you'll have to decide which is more important.
Sound good (lopy), or run good.

Manifold vacuum is a key factor in tuning and making these engines run well.

Fair enough.

Bulltear's pistons arrived!! Very good craftsmanship and arrived nearly three weeks from order date. Very pleased!

Been a while since I updated my post - been making some heavy moves forward! I got the block back bored, crank has been balanced and the machine shop threw in the cam bearings and installed the connecting rods to the pistons. Scrubbed the block clean and gave it a couple coats of hi-temp semi-gloss black. Starting putting the piston rings on, but I need to get a ring spreader for the top and middle rings. Plan to rent one from AutoZone tonight.
Thus far, here is the engine build:

4.0L block (bored .60 over)
4.2L connecting rods
Bulltear forged pistons - 28cc dish - 3.935 dia
Stock head DIY port/polish (might have the machine shop knock this out)
COMP Cams 250/258, Lift .462/.485
2000 WJ Intake manifold (buying this weekend)
Factory throttle body bored to 62mm (with 1" AL spacer)
Bosch Injectors (23 lb/hr) (4 hole)
Volant CAI
MSD Blaster coil
Bosch Iridium spark plugs

Now that the bottom end is nearly complete, I get to park Maggie, pull the engine and start the rebuild!

Factory ride height, for now, plans for a Rough Country 4" lift. 31x10.5 General Grabber AT2

Cheromaniac - what type of HP/TQ number do you think I'll be at?

I plan to get it dyno'd, but curious how close your estimates are!!