Jeep Strokers

Click on this link and read Tips 12 and 13 if you're gonna mess with the dizzy.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz4d205 ... edit?pli=1

cruiser54 wrote:Click on this link and read Tips 12 and 13 if you're gonna mess with the dizzy.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz4d205 ... edit?pli=1

Thanks Cruiser, I'll give that a go.

About the Ignition trigger: Would I be able to see that with a digital meter? It just looks like 5 Volts, 0 when set to AC.

The proper digital meter will have an aC scale and it will show.

I managed a couple of hours in the garage last night.



The Distributor button wasn't as clean and shiny as I thought it should be so I took emery cloth to that.
I verified the fuel pump is running while cranking.
Firing order is correct.
From the photo is the distributor index correctly? I don't see how that could be a tooth off?
I gave up trying to measure the trigger input, and just pulled the plug on #1 and held it to the block. I HAVE SPARK!
I smell fuel but it must not be enough.

NOW WHAT?
Fuel: I guess I need to find a way to verify the Injectors are running while cranking.
Air: The IAC stepper is off a throttle body I have never used before, so It could be faulty? Can I remove it, will it just idle high or will it run away high? Should I just give it partial throttle while cranking?
Spark: We are good there.

I told a buddy I had two more theories then I'm going to set it on fire. that was three theories ago... MAN this is frustrating

It's not indexed correctly. The trailing edge of the rotor needs to be .020" past the #1 terminal on the cap.

You also know that #1 is in the 5 o'clock position when viewed from the passenger side fender, right? I wish I knew how to post photos here.

So it sounds like I'm a tooth off? That's at least something tangible to go test! I feel like I've completed the Cam breaking with the starter motor.

Should it matter that I'm running Comp 68-232-4? That won't change the TDC center line so no never mind just thinking out loud. .020 thou past #1 (IE to the left of the #1 post). Would that cause it to completely NOT fire?

Cruiser I'm gonna buy you a box of cigars. I really appreciate your help.

Cam doesn't matter.

Yes, after the terminal of the cap.

Click on the link below and scroll through to see the correct firing order and placement of #1. Lots of photos, but unless I learn how to upload them here, it's the best I can do.

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/g/album/1725214

Cruiser I hope you don't mind me re-hosting this for comparison.

Absolutely not. We're all in this together. Thanks!! Did you see the firing order one?

This seem too far. I shouldn't have to cut the ear should I? If I go back the other way the rotor is centered on #1. It way closer to "6 o'clock" than 5. Thoughts?

Very common to have to cut the ear.

So common in fact, that I just do it on every dizzy I have occasion to remove.

So put it back on like this.. Replaced the new cap. No change. Gonna try a noid light on the injectors. And a timing light from a buddy.

SO FUSTRATED!!!

Noid light verified the injectors are firing(or at least #1 is). Can't get to a timing light today. It seems to me that the problem HAS to be in the timing.

I guess I'll look at the distributor again.

Timing is controlled by the ECU based on inputs from CPS. Is the spark strong and blue at the plugs?

It's blue-ish white. Seems pretty strong. I'm at a total loss. I've got fuel and spark! Seriously! What gives!