Bought someone else's build, working through problems

[Cheromaniac]

Sounds like you're having to deal with a catalog of monumental f*** ups.
Hope you can get that stroker build on track.

[Russ Pottenger]

My engine shop is in West Covina not too far from you.

Shoot me a PM I'd be happy to look at what you have and try and help you out.

Russ

Bishop-Buehl Racing Engines
531 N. Lyall Ave.
West Covina, CA. 91790
Work (626) 967-1000
Cell (626) 673-2203

[Shadowdrop]

Thanks Russ for the offer, the block is already at a shop nearby for the basic machining needed. The block was previously decked to a height of 9.415", which corresponds to the previous owner saying he decked it .035". My shop had to punch out the cylinders .020" over. The shop also had a crank and rods that they were kind enough to give me. So, I'm trying to decide on pistons. This shop does not have a CNC capable of a good dish job on some 2229 Silvolites, and those would sit .0115 in the hole anyway. I'm leaning towards some Bulltear pistons at zero deck height with 20cc dishes. Combined with a 0.51 head gasket and my chambers CC'ing at 59cc's, I'm looking at a static CR of 9.5. If I run the Mopar 229 cam, I'd have a DCR of 8.31. Does this quench and DCR seem in a safe range to run 91 octane? I'm in So Cal, so I'd be running close to sea-level most of the time.

I could try to use 802 pistons, but I think 20cc's is pushing their dish capability. Any thoughts/suggestions?

[Russ Pottenger]

If you're willing to go to the expense of the new custom piston, I'd do it slightly different.
I could build a piston for you that would give you a positive .005 out of the deck.
With a 23cc reverse non-symmetrical dish.
Using a .043 gasket you'll have a .038 piston to head with a much more efficient quench area while maintaining your desired static compression ratio.

Feel free to give me a call me if you'd like any further information.

Russ

[Shadowdrop]

Finally got around to doing some fitting and assembly!

Crank is in, plastigage'd within spec and everything looking great.

I did the math right! Pistons come right to zero-deck. I'm very happy with these Bulltear/Racetec pistons so far.

[Raggedyman]

Congrats on getting back to the build....it's sometimes too easy to give up and move on.

I have that same book you're referencing......good info. Seems like there's a couple places where he contradicts his own numbers....can't remember off the top of my head though.

Peace.

[gradon]

[Cheromaniac]

Finally got around to doing some fitting and assembly!
Crank is in, plastigage'd within spec and everything looking great.

Glad to see the engine's coming together again. Any progress since you took those pics?

[Shadowdrop]

I picked up a billet JP Performance double roller timing set. It's nice because the crank sprocket has different slots to adjust timing in 2 degree increments. I think I have the proper install procedure, but let me know if I'm screwing something up. I set the crank to TDC and installed the crank sprocket. I installed the cam and cam sprocket. The timing marks were slightly off. When I add +2 degrees using the crank sprocket, the marks are just about perfect. So, now the engine is at TDC with the timing marks aligned. Is this good enough or do I need a depth gauge and verify the degreeing on the camshaft? I'm using a Mopar Performance 229 camshaft.

[Shadowdrop]

The cam timing mark is aligned with the outer timing mark on the crank, per JP's instructions. The crank is at TDC here.

[Shadowdrop]

[Russ Pottenger]

You look like you're good to go.

Being the West Coast distributor for JP and Rollmaster I've found them to be consistent and accurate.

I degree the camshaft in on every engine of that I build and haven't experienced any issues or problems.

[Shadowdrop]

Awesome, thanks Russ!