Jeep Strokers

fuel pump installed. fuel pressure and volume test completed. meets stock requirements.
same problem.
ideas ? ive heard crank position sensor can cause some issues like this

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=102 ... 9321351738
video of it running

A slightly failing CPS could cause this issue.

As well as a faulty MAP sensor or O2 sensor.

Being that it is at idle and a fairly cold engine the plug gap shouldn't matter as long as it is close to stock.

What about your ignition coil?

What injectors are you running and where did you get them?

24 LB BOSCH FORD RACING FUEL INJECTOR im running those
and the actual distributor is reused stock one with
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g5230
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-867625
my dad seems to think the problem lies in fuel
im starting to move to timing or spark.
the fuel pressure regulator i already went to the junkyard and pulled another. after it wouldn't start originally.
wouldn't a faulty map sensor or o2 sensor give me a cel ?

im going to look right now. looked up what the cps actually looks like. and i don't remember plugging it back in/ever removing/ seeing something the resembles that. mind you its been 4 years since i pulled the motor ill get back to you with result.
nope hooked up. very dirty. but hooked up

So.
done some looking around and found this gem
http://www.scribd.com/doc/10078577/Jeep ... -diagrams-
know for a fact the live wire i hooked to battery is supposed to be on alternator + so that's one thing. and im going to thoroughly go through every wire. just to check its not something stupid.

so. i messed with the car today. i think your onto something with the cps
unplugged it. plugged back in.
car runs like shit and stalled out 2 times
coincidence ? i think not. just got another one from store. install after work tomorrow will get back to you with results

crank position sensor changed. wont start. ideas ?

It's not starting at all now?
Grasping at straws, but the Cam Position Sensor (in the dizzy) will cause no start if it fails. It could cause your other symptoms but I'm not sure on that. Anyone?
I did notice you've reused your old dizzy, so just a thought.

yeah. plans for tomorrow. sorry been working.
im going to add another ground to the motor. just for peace of mind. ugh im so frustrated.
also im going to get something hooked up like this. http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... f=24&t=536

so. this kinda perplexed me today. just for shits and giggles i redid the timing... AGAIN. and noticed this.
when you remove the distributor it rotates, its about a 1/4 to a 1/5 of a cycle.Ive tried multiple times. to get it to the 3cm point from the cam position sensor. it ends up falling in at around 3.5cm or 2.5. no matter how many times i pull it out and push it back in i cant get it to hit that 3cm line i drew. Ive heard aftermarket cams could be the cause. anyone know if that comp cams K68-231-4 cam might be the issue here ?
thoughts on this ? just a note. i actually measured the turn. and perfectly dropped the dizzy in where it would line up after its turn going in to 3cm. it goes all the way in then just stops about a half centimeter from block. and that's as far as it will go period.

Once the dizzy is in, the shaft will be located (you wont be able to move it) but you should be able to rotate the housing so the rotor lines up at 3cm.
Have you modded the locating tabs to allow enough adjustment, often required with aftermarket cams?

i have not modified the dizzy at all
when its pushed in at all there is no more motion. it goes down like a spiral and where the spiral ends is where it sits. no more motion. theres a little play but not much not enough to get the correct distance.
so should i cut the "ears" off and manually make it 3cm ?

You can't rotate the distributor housing even with the hold down bolt removed?

i can rotate the housing. but to make it 3cm its not going to line up with the ears