Few questions on some DIY work.

[SilverXJ]

Yes, there are ARP rod bolts for the 4.2L and 4.0L rods. They are a good idea.

FWIW the stock 4.0L rods are good to 400 HP. Don't know about the 4.2L rods, but they can't be too far behind.

I did just end up off eBay buying some new led bulbs for my reverse, tail, stop, glove box & ash tray & rear running lights.

Link to said bulbs? I'd like to do a LED interior and replace the front LED bulbs I have now.

[Desertjr]

I went to superbright led & used it as a reference. If you type in ur vehicle it gives a list of every bulb needed. I then used that info on google and found what I needed.
I pulled my "tray" part of the ash tray out so now the light lights up my center console area. I. Ended up with a fairly bright red led..we will see how it looks when they arrive.


And these were the brake lights I order. For the brake feature. Not tail light. The beams quite focused so they wouldn't make a god tail light..brake light however they will shoot straight back at other drivers which you want. Fr the tail light portion you want a bulb that'll light up around 180* r better. Same foe the rear running light.
You also want "red color" LEDs even if you have a red housing. The white in a red housing actually comes out pink.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cree-Q5-7W-1157 ... 20&vxp=mtr

He's we're he reverse I got. From all the pics these seem have a wide beam pattern..I have a set of led pods for reverse lights, I mainly did these to have matching color..however hey will put the stockers to shame.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-Cree-Q5-Rea ... af&vxp=mtr


These are the tail light bulbs however the lists I bought from ended..I payed 22 for the pair. You can see its still that bright Cree setup but has ring of LEDs going 360*..perfect to fully light up the tail light housing. You can find something similar..I just. Wanted the. Bright Cree setup in all my lights..no real need in the tail light honestly..the brake light, I'd do the Cree for sure.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-7W-CREE-Q5-1 ... 92&vxp=mtr


For running light in the rear, I just picked up 2 red ones like these, for the glove box, I got 2 warm white, 3800k and 2 cool white 6500k to see which I like better. I payed 3 bucks per set of 2 as well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-T10-W5W-194- ... 1d&vxp=mtr

I didn't do turn signals as I didn't wanna deal with the flasher crap..just wanted my tail lights brighter with the instant on & off feature. LEDs light up .2 of a second quicker than incandescent bulbs. .2 of a second at 60mph is around 25 ft..should help those behind me know when I'm stopping

[Desertjr]

I should add these aren't confirmed to work in a xj. The bulbs actually a few mm longer than the normal ones and I honestly don't know if they will fit. Luckily all my bulbs except those expensive tail light ones came from he same seller if I have return them.

[Desertjr]

Ok guys here the invoice I got..let me know who it looks. The numbers in front of the part is the part number I was given. Let me know if there's places to get them cheaper, better or not needed. Ect.


Motor invoice
Parts

6x 825cp & pins- 189
Rings part# 50514- 39.14
Oem camshaft -
2011 lifters - 32.16
Cb960p rod bearings - 44.70
M5104p min bearings - 74.95
Camshaft bearings - 24.64
3041 timing set - 62.13
M81a oil pump - 79.90
260-1762 felpro gasket set - 75
Mpe608ba freeze plugs - 9.91
Pin bearings - 15
4152 Arp rod bolts - 50
Oem dampened - 49
Crank spacer - 45
Misc parts - 10

Labor

Hot tank & install cam earrings - 115
Align hone main bearings - 70
Power hone - 150
Recondition connection rods - 75
Hang & align pistons, fit pins - 50
Micro polish crank, index grind crank & radius oil holes - 150
Balance assembly - 125
3* valve job - 200
Machine spring seats - 40
Surface & cc head - 50
Labor for disassembly - 200
Labor for assembly - 300
Hot tank covers & pans - 30
Cut down valves - 40 (ls1 stuff)

[Desertjr]

Ok so here's where I'm at. The 4.2L mini stroker with a comp 235 cam ground at 113lsa, installed straight up. Static compression is 9.25, dynamic is 7.5. Quench is .036.
Or a 4.7L long rod setup on the stock cam. Static is 9.3 dynamic is 6.85. Quench is .0409

Both would turn 87 octane. The bigger motor cost more because extra machine work & pushrods and such, but what's your opinion on which to do? I already have a 232 crank but I could sell it and buy a 258 ect ect.
Which would work better, which for more power? Mileage? Reliability?

[SilverXJ]

Reliability they will both be equal. You will get more power out of the 258 crank stroker. Pushrod length may change as well due to the cam used on the small stroker. You also have to figure in the cost of KB, Bulltear or custom pistons on the 258 long rod combo.

[Desertjr]

It would be the same even with the different rod ratio? 1.72 for the mini and 1.57 for the LR 4.7l?

[SilverXJ]

You don't hear of many strokers having damage on the crank or rods unless its from a bad tune. Its the cam and valve train area that gives us the problems.

[Desertjr]

So big stroke 4.7L short rod it is. I've gotta speak with Russ about pistons and cam. I believe he was wanting me to run the sealed power 825s but I doubt they'd hold a dish deep enough to run 87oct? Looking at a 22-24cc dish to get me where I need to be. I have seen however the silvolites will hold a 30cc and still have enough meat?

My specs I've come up with.
.060 over
3.895
.051 head gasket (for a availability..I want something I can go pick up at autozone in a pinch)
-.012 deck (this is to achieve a good quench, while keeping oem head gasket)
62cc chambers (pure speculation on my part but I'm gonna have ls1 valves and ill open them up some..hoping for more than 62cc)
24cc dish
5.875 rods
Comp 232 secs (250/113/3)

I get 9.25 static/7.96 dynamic. And from my understanding this will run on 87 oct? Sea level and a extremely tight quench at .038 & gonna polish the chambers. I would like t run my stock cam, not only for cost but because I have a BIG fear of the valve train issues. I don't want to deal with the garbage cam issues, and wouldn't have cash to replace it if anything went wrong.
Looking for great low end, I cruise right at 1950-2000rpm and also want some good strong power all the way to 45-4700. I won't push it more than 5000 because I know the harmonics issue, and ill be running a single roller timing set.

[SilverXJ]

http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... =34&t=3001 for piston dishing.

As far as the fuel grade, you should be able to run regular. However, there is no number set in stone.

If you are reusing the stock cam and lifters keep the lifters in order so they make with the same cam lobe. A numbered egg carton works great for this.

[Desertjr]

Well this motors now a very very high priority. I will call russ tomorrow or tonight and speak with him..

My crank snout snapped at around 26-2700rpm in 4th gear. She's pushing over 300k and still starts and idles fine. It had a weird knock before. I thought it was a rod or main after I check the top end. Nope It was the crank snout or pulley. Luckily it hit no one..made a good 1/2 gouge in the road and ended up close to 1/4 mile away in a gutter. It crossed 3 lanes..I'm dead happy no one was injured. This could of killed someone!

[Muad'Dib]

HOLY WTF

[Desertjr]

Appears to me the po used a incorrect sized bolt. Length wise. I bought it along time ago, po had just done the pan gasket, but pulled the pulley
The bolt that's in the pulled is only .75" long. I think the factory crank bolt would be longer? If you look you can see where the bolt stops and there is still tons of thread area..about .75" more between the piece of crank on the pulley and the rest left in the motor. Russ said the crank bolt was around 1.25" or so but didn't. Have an exact number on hand. Sounds about right to me..bolt areas t be .75" long plus the other .5-.75 of unused threads would equal around 1.25-1.5" long.
It was a huge spark show, a nasty pop and then a airplane sound. When the pulley snapped, it snapped the serp. belt. That intern spun the idler pulley insanely fast..it was screaming(air plane sound) that's how fast it was going. Scared me something fierce.
I'm so extremely happy that it didn't hit anyone or damage anything. How it skipped 3 lanes of cars and stopped about 1/4 mile away without touching anything ill never know. When I saw the crank pulley gone first thing I did was look around to see if anyone had stopped or was hurt. That thing was like a missile I'm sure. It gouged the asphalt a good .5" deep for where it hit.

If the cause was incorrect length of bolt then its last the 6 years I owned it. I've pushed her to 5000rpm a few times running stop-stop light...hey it's a 5speed and that's silly ricers need a lesson but I would say that's like 1 time out of 100 days or something. Not often at all! I do know the harmonics issue could of been a cause. Idk what the reason is, just very scary.
Will be working with Russ to get a cam setup that won't turn anymore power past 4700rpm max. Cause I do not want to be tempted to run any higher EVER!

[SilverXJ]

Wow.. that is nuts. The stock bolt is about 1.25" long. I remember this because I used a BB Chevy ARP bolt on mine and had to cut .25" off the bolt. I am uncertain that is teh cause though. The balancer is a pretty tight press fit and I don't see it coming off with even a short bolt. Unless the bolt had backed out and allowed the balancer to back off as well.

[Desertjr]

Wow.. that is nuts. The stock bolt is about 1.25" long. I remember this because I used a BB Chevy ARP bolt on mine and had to cut .25" off the bolt. I am uncertain that is teh cause though. The balancer is a pretty tight press fit and I don't see it coming off with even a short bolt. Unless the bolt had backed out and allowed the balancer to back off as well.

Nope, the snout snapped/sneered itself off. I couldn't believe it. Meeting russ today and dropping of first down payment for the motor:)