Jeep Strokers

I had the shop change the sensors. I don't know how or what it should be indexed at. I don't have a wideband 02 in there and I don't know where to get one for my application and I don't have any monitoring device. I'm not sure the shop does either otherwise they would have told me. If I did, I could change the fuel pressure with a regulator, but is there one? That link I posted, I thought was a regulator.

I need to check:

Fuel pressure for 48-52 psi
Re check sensors

Can you guys give me a link to the afr stuff? I'd be buying to help me with the regulator I don't have right?

its wierd. It misfires when I'm hovering around 3000 rpms but not everytime. I can go up to 5000 and switch gears and the engine light does not flash at me.

fsjeep13 wrote:I had the shop change the sensors. I don't know how or what it should be indexed at.

http://jeep.blackonyx.net/pdfs/jcss.pdf Start by doing that. Its free and all you need are hand tools and a tooth pick. Make sure that the magnet in the sensor itself did not become dislodged.

If I did, I could change the fuel pressure with a regulator, but is there one? That link I posted, I thought was a regulator.

Why would you change the regulator? You don't even know what the fuel pressure is.

Can you guys give me a link to the afr stuff?

Google for a wideband AFR sensor and gauge. They usually come as a kit. NGK makes a good one, autometer and Daytona Sensors.

I'd be buying to help me with the regulator I don't have right?

You have a regulator, what you posted was just a fuel pump. Its not self regulating. The regulator is above the fuel pump on top of the gas tank.

Also, find a new shop. There is no way both the cam, crank sensor and a third sensor went faulty at the same time. What was the third sensor?

SilverXJ wrote:

fsjeep13 wrote: Also, find a new shop. There is no way both the cam, crank sensor and a third sensor went faulty at the same time. What was the third sensor?

X2

SilverXJ wrote:

fsjeep13 wrote:I had the shop change the sensors. I don't know how or what it should be indexed at.

http://jeep.blackonyx.net/pdfs/jcss.pdf Start by doing that. Its free and all you need are hand tools and a tooth pick. Make sure that the magnet in the sensor itself did not become dislodged. I'll check that out.

If I did, I could change the fuel pressure with a regulator, but is there one? That link I posted, I thought was a regulator.

Why would you change the regulator? You don't even know what the fuel pressure is.
I was assuming in the area of 49spi, thats what it should be at the rail. If I could turn up the spi a bit, maybe that would make it run less lean.

Can you guys give me a link to the afr stuff?

Google for a wideband AFR sensor and gauge. They usually come as a kit. NGK makes a good one, autometer and Daytona Sensors.

I'd be buying to help me with the regulator I don't have right?

You have a regulator, what you posted was just a fuel pump. Its not self regulating. The regulator is above the fuel pump on top of the gas tank. Is there an adjustable regulator?

Also, find a new shop. There is no way both the cam, crank sensor and a third sensor went faulty at the same time. What was the third sensor?

I do trust this guy, but he said they are in the same circuit or something to that effect as to where one goes bad, so does the other. He said the oil pump drive went bad, causing the two sensors to fail. He said he pulled the codes. I had it towed in becuase it would not start one day. I made a mistake thinking there was a third sensor, I meant oil pump drive.

How would I know if its the coil pack?

fsjeep13 wrote: I was assuming in the area of 49spi, thats what it should be at the rail. If I could turn up the spi a bit, maybe that would make it run less lean.

Yes, that is what it should be, but you don't know what it actually is. You need to get it out of your head that it is running lean. You already have teh correct sized injectors. Check the fuel pressure though just to be on the same side. If its not 49.2 +/-5 psi replace the pump and regulator, You don't need any sort of high flow, just a good replacement.

Is there an adjustable regulator?

Yes, from Hesco. Its about $400.

I do trust this guy, but he said they are in the same circuit or something to that effect as to where one goes bad, so does the other. He said the oil pump drive went bad, causing the two sensors to fail. He said he pulled the codes.

It doesn't work like that. If they were both thought to be bad because they were on the same circuit then there would have been a problem with the circuit, not the sensors. Since he mentioned the pump drive you need to reindex it, which I linked to. I would put money on it that that is the problem.

Ok, for the toothpick trick... How do I get the engine to TDC? Its also hard to see where the toothpick does in the picture, but maybe I'll figure it out when I'm there. Thanks

TDC: Its best if you remove all the spark plugs, which makes it easier to turn over. Put your finger over spark plug hole #1 (or some other pressure sensing device). When you feel pressure that indicates the valves are closed and you are on the compression stroke. Now watch the harmonic balancer and align the notch with the 0* mark on the timing cover. If your HB hasn't slipped that is TDC.

As for the tooth pick, there is a hole in the body of the oil pump/sensor drive and a hole in the rotating cup inside. You align the two holes and slip the tooth pick through. Its pretty much self explanatory once you see it.

So I had time to have them reindex the oil pump drive. It was within the +- 10. One cylinder was at 2 and another was at -1 i think. Now they are all at 0. So it can't get much more perfect. He recommended I change gasoline from costco gas to chevron. Still misfires if I hover at 3000 in first. It has less tendancy to do it at 3000 rpm at 70mph in 3rd gear and actually has not done it yet.