valve train question

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ftpiercecracker1
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Re: valve train question

Post by ftpiercecracker1 »

Muad'Dib wrote:I think what he meant by waiting for later on the pushrods is to "wait until he can measure and then purchase new or re-use stockers". :ugeek:
:mrgreen: , are you telepathic :shock:
ftpiercecracker1
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Re: valve train question

Post by ftpiercecracker1 »

SilverXJ wrote:If you do reuse your stock cam I would have it checked over thoroughly.
probably gonna get a new one, the original cam has 175K hard HARD miles.

Summit has 8 er 9 different cams to pick from, $109 to $260; street/strip/offroad

I figure i can buy one of theirs and if need be i can have my guy do some fine tuning if necessary.
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SilverXJ
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Re: valve train question

Post by SilverXJ »

ftpiercecracker1 wrote:I figure i can buy one of theirs and if need be i can have my guy do some fine tuning if necessary.
He can't really fine tune a cam aside form retard or advance it and that is if you have an adjustable timing set.
SIXPAK
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Re: valve train question

Post by SIXPAK »

You can buy offset keys for the crank to degree in the camshaft without using the more expensive timing set.
ftpiercecracker1
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Re: valve train question

Post by ftpiercecracker1 »

well then i guess i will have to wait until i know a little more about the build before i try and determine my cam

after all i am just now getting the engine into the machine shop, had a bit of a hang up, so i had to use the engine in my truck instead of the one i bought

by the way do any of you know the best way to disconnect the engine from the bellhousing, I cant figure a way to get at the bolts on the top. :frustrated:
Retlaw01XJ
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Re: valve train question

Post by Retlaw01XJ »

ftpiercecracker1 wrote: by the way do any of you know the best way to disconnect the engine from the bellhousing, I cant figure a way to get at the bolts on the top. :frustrated:
They ARE tough to get to! They are a Torx head, but I was able to use a box end 10mm wrench to get them out. For more work space, remove the engine mounts and tilt the engine forward a little.
Installing them, I did the opposite..... engine mounts in place, dropped the trans tail a little and used a couple feet of extensions and the proper torx socket. Took me about 2 hours for the 2 bolts! :frustrated:
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ftpiercecracker1
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Re: valve train question

Post by ftpiercecracker1 »

Retlaw01XJ wrote: They ARE tough to get to! They are a Torx head, but I was able to use a box end 10mm wrench to get them out. For more work space, remove the engine mounts and tilt the engine forward a little.
Installing them, I did the opposite..... engine mounts in place, dropped the trans tail a little and used a couple feet of extensions and the proper torx socket. Took me about 2 hours for the 2 bolts! :frustrated:
thats pretty funny cause i had the exact same idea, :P , although i have yet to get it pulled, even after 2 stinking days :evil:

My question is, how on earth could you ever do this without taking the entire front clip off? I literally have my entire engine bay emptied, including the entire front end and still feel cramped for space.

by the way once those last two bolts are removed will the engine just kinda fall off? or will it take some persuading??
thanks
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SilverXJ
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Re: valve train question

Post by SilverXJ »

They aren't a torx head they are an e-torx head.

What I do it lift the engine enough to remove the engine mount cushions, then lower it so the engine side bracket is resting on the frame side bracket. Then I use a long extension with one of those ball swivel joints and go in from the rear. This is on an XJ so your mileage may differ on a different Jeep. The first time I took them out was a complete nightmare.
ftpiercecracker1
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Re: valve train question

Post by ftpiercecracker1 »

thanks for the advice, and when the time comes to drop the engine back in are there any aftermarket bolts that i can use? like a normal hex head. or should i just deal with it and reuse the Torxs?

thanks for all the help
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SilverXJ
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Re: valve train question

Post by SilverXJ »

Most definitely replace those etorx with a standard grade 8 hex head bolt.
ftpiercecracker1
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Re: valve train question

Post by ftpiercecracker1 »

are they going to be a standard thread? Where i can just take it into a hardware store, match up the threads and be done?

thanks
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Re: valve train question

Post by Muad'Dib »

Yes
If it feels right, then STROKE it!
ftpiercecracker1
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Re: valve train question

Post by ftpiercecracker1 »

Success :banana: , after 5 days and hours of toiling, the old war horse is finaly free.

had to do just like someone said. Remove the mounts, Block and Frame , had to drop it as low as it would go and then i went in town and bought a set of "e" torx sockets ($24). had to use two different sizes, but i'm glad i got them instead of trying to use something else.
BUT even with engine free of the tranny it was still unbelieveably difficult to get it out of the bay. :banghead: Thankfully i did manage to get it free without breaking anything, 8-) and it is now waiting patiently on my engine stand.

thanks for all the help guys, :D you will be hearing from me a lot more in the coming months, PREPARE YOURSELVES!!! :rockout:
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Re: valve train question

Post by 92tank »

did you take the grill off? that makes it way easier to pull the engine.
ftpiercecracker1
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Re: valve train question

Post by ftpiercecracker1 »

Oh ya, that baby was stripped plum down to brass tacks. Grill, radiator, condenser, EVERYTHING was gone. I'm glad i did it too because that thing was a bitch to remove. :x Unless you have a lot of experience i would highly recommend doing the same. Also as many of you already well know, organization is absolutely critical. I have all my bolts in individual slots, labeled with permenant marker, and i also have dozens of pictures and about a half an hour of video, detailing every part of the tear down.

now i just have to start tearing into the block, cant wait. :P
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