Jeep Strokers

By the time you find used one, have it turned it would be cheaper to get a Scat one. And its new.

Does anyone have a link for a Scat one for sale? Thats the one crank I can't seem to find for sale, or at least without calling. I don't want to buy new if I can get a crank and rods locally and get 'em dressed up. I'm just trying to keep the cost down because to start off my build it'll be coming from my bonus and if it's like last year, it won't happen.

crusher242 wrote:Does anyone have a link for a Scat one for sale?

I called Scat last week. They're expecting a shipment in any day now (if they don't already have them). 130+ are already spoken for, so get your order in if you want one. I ordered one thru Summit. $399 + $12-something for handling, no extra shipping charges.
I'll be calling them this week for an update. I'm hoping to have one at my door next week.

try craig's list . i got one that was in the engine . rods were great too . it got ground to 10/10 . engine cost me 50.00 .

I have 2 short snout 4 cw cranks. One is shot peened and polished it's turned 20/20. It looks better than new. Pm if you're interested..

Pm'd ya 6TIME. Letme know. I just got a lead on two local 258's some guy is trying to unload for a $100 a peice.`Here is a good question. What will be better, a short rod or long rod engine? Keep in mind I'm trying to keep all my costs as low as possible. I've heard of people useing the short rods and 677 pistons for pretty cheap. And let's face it, I like cheap. I'm just wondering is this viable with a stock camshaft?

crusher242 wrote:I've heard of people useing the short rods and 677 pistons for pretty cheap. And let's face it, I like cheap. I'm just wondering is this viable with a stock camshaft?

Yes. I have the 12cwt 258 crank, 258 rods, 677P pistons, and stock cam in my stroker.

Looks like I got my crank. 86' 4 weight with the rods. Look pretty good from the pics I receieved. I'm gonna go with the 677P pistons. My question is how far can the be safely dished? I gonna try to keep the CR down as far as reasonably possible. 9.2 would work, but I definately want it lower.

I'm still alitle fuzzy on things...ok, a ton fuzzy! Can I run KB944's on my 4.2 crank and rods to lower the compression ratio to accept pump gas? I see a bunch of the long rod guys use them so I was wondering if I can use the for a short rod.

No, the KB/IC 944/945 can not be run with a short rod.

OK. Thank you.

crusher , i walked in to an O'rieleys about 2 years ago and bought my crank. i think WITH the core it was $243 that came with mains and rod bearings..... the mains wont work on the 4.0L block (mine was a '93 block and head ) but the rod bearings will.
the crank i used was for an '80 model cj beacuse on another unrelated project i had swapped out the 258 in my 80 cj7 in favor of a 360 so that took care of the core since id already torn the old engine down to the naughty bits (old crank was pretty wiped out but they took it as a core)+40 bux

as for turned too much i cant say ... mine was 0.010 and 0.010 and when i checked the oil cleances they were spot on - if it were me id check with them before i got a junkyard one...

i had my crank spin balanced to 10k rpm and my machinist said that because id used the 12 cw crank that he had to do less work to get the combo back to neutral this was mere coincendence that i had used it but i looked at the balance sheet and from what i can tell (looks mostly like greek to me) it was pretty far out to start with but idont think he ended up using any heavy metal for counter balancing because he said the price would go up if he did and it didnt go up

after running it id definitely recomend the early 258 crank BUT youll have to get pretty creative on the spacer for the harmonic balancer (i used a piece of heavy wall aluminum pipe 1/4 inch long ) and id do a spin balance again too if i had it to do all over again even though it wasnt cheap (250 bux) because save for a VERY minor shake coming off idle to about 1100 rpms shes smooth as silk all over the rpm range machinist said it would have been rough and shaky had i not done it .

ive got the speedpro hyperutectic pistons on these i lucked out as when i called summit they had a weight matched set on clearance for about 100 bux so call them before you drop down on pistons (i would not have gotten this deal if id have just ordered online)

im running a comp cams pn#68-231-4 which is 206 214 duration @0.050 i got it in a kit with lifters timing set keepers retainers and locks for about 250 bucks but if you use this one i wouldn't go this route id buy the cam, lifters and timing set, and then buy keepers seals and locks, the one provided in the kit will not work (on the 4.0 head my seat pressure was about 100lbs too high and the retainers locks and seals are for 3/8 diameter stem the 4.0 is 11/32)

i found venom 24# injectors on nextag for 130 bux for a set of six shipped i just checked they are actually cheaper than that now through the same company i used on amazon.com

id did an ass of shopping around before i bought a single part and in the long run i probably saved about 500 bux in part BUT my machine shop bill was about $2k - good machine shop work isnt cheap and if you want you engine to last i highly recomend you go with whatever they recomend ESPECIALY line boring and spin balancing also have them check the cam bore (mine was ever so slightly twisted and needed a touch up)

LeviPittman wrote:i looked at the balance sheet and from what i can tell (looks mostly like greek to me)

I speak fluent Greek so I can translate.

LeviPittman wrote:after running it id definitely recomend the early 258 crank BUT youll have to get pretty creative on the spacer for the harmonic balancer

I had the rear 10mm cut off an old harmonic balancer on a lathe and used that as a spacer. Cheap and easy.

LeviPittman wrote:im running a comp cams pn#68-231-4 which is 206 214 duration @0.050 i got it in a kit with lifters timing set keepers retainers and locks for about 250 bucks but if you use this one i wouldn't go this route id buy the cam, lifters and timing set, and then buy keepers seals and locks, the one provided in the kit will not work (on the 4.0 head my seat pressure was about 100lbs too high and the retainers locks and seals are for 3/8 diameter stem the 4.0 is 11/32)

The stock 4.0 valve stems are actually 8mm (~5/16") and if you're going to use that Compcams cam, I advise that go with Mopar Performance 5249464 valve springs, 4452032 retainers, and 4529218 keepers. You can buy them all from Summit racing and you don't need to machine the head to install the springs.

wish id have thought of cutting a chunk off the old the balancer .... thats a duhuh moment right there lol i had three laying around when i was done

can i post up pics here or ? ive got the balance sheets and i can scan them ?

i ended up going with some outragously priced racing springs for a ford mustang or something - it was the only thing my machinist could find that had the right diameter seat and open pressure he said theyd be good to 8krpms with no float but not to try it as the cast rods would come unglued at 6500 does anyone make an affordable forging for these motors yet?

You can post pics on here using something like photobucket,