so i started my pnp job on the head and keep in mind this is the first time i've ever attempted this. i do know i need to blend around the valve guide a little better but i don't have the correct tool for that apparently so i need to order 1 but for now i can get everything but that
well i decided to just run the stock rods....hope they're strong enough......and i'm picking up my resized rods next week and dropping the rotating assembly off at a race engine builder to have balanced while my block's being decked. so somebody correct me if my math is wrong
rods 6.125
kb944 pin height 1.353
stroke 3.895/2=1.9475
overall height 9.4255
99 4.0 deck height 9.450-9.456
so that leaves me with a miniumum of .0245 to take off the block but i see most people are only taking off .020. why not take off the .024 istead of the .020?
Are those actually your measurements or are you going off specs? Its much better/smarter to mock it up and cut what you need to, if you don't you better watch out for that damn Murphy
Rods are 6.123". Most people using the KB944s take off .020" cause that is how KB spec'd them(taking off more will increase their calculated compression spec). I did the math last week and they came out to be .0295" down the hole if you use the 9.453" deck height. If you aren't going to mock up and measure, I agree that you could take off at least .025"(the rod is .002" shorter so your .0245" minimum is now .0265") and leave the extra <.005" for the variable tolerances. Harbor Freight sells a nice 1' long digital dial caliper that you could use to measure the deck height.
I would ask the machine shop to mock it up. Too many components in play and if you cut it too much you have a problem. Rod lengths vary, the stroke on the crank could be off, piston pin location could be off and deck height could be off.
ok back to work on this thing. dropped the block off to be decked today and should get it back on monday. thinking about using the renix tb on the 99+ intake. does anybody know if there is an adapter out there for this already? if not i have abunch of scrap 3/16 and 1/4 plate laying around. still can't decide if i want to try and stuff ls valves in my head or just go ahead with the stock stuff since i have everything for it already
hmm can't think of anything else at the moment but i'm shooting for stabbing the motor next weekend and hopefully be running by the following weekend. still gotta decide what color to paint the engine.....i'm thinking lime green.....should be fugly against a white body
IIRC there are expensive adapters for the RENIX TB on a HO conundrum.
Why not just use the proper TB and change the RENIX system over to the HO stuff. You WILL need a TPS adapter, however everything else can be found at a junkyard (throttle cable, TV Cable etc). No you dont have to change out the computer wiring and all that stuff...
found a guy on another site who's going to make the adapter for me for like $20 that way i won't have to mess with any of that crap. remembered i knew a machinist about an hour after i made my post earlier so we've been pming back and forth about it
i picked up my block and started measuring for ring gap but i can't find anything for forged piston and moly rings. do it just go .004xbore or is there some other formula for forged pistons and moly rings?
measured my headgasket. coulda swore i ordered the kit with the .043 gasket in it but the gasket measure .053 at the blue section and .043 on just the steel. i may just say screw it and run with it
Measuring it won't tell you the compressed thickness. You probably have the .043" gasket as IIRC those are the same measurements I had when I checked the thickness with led.
so any input on the rings measurement? silver what did you do for yours?
is the harbor freight dial indicator good enough for finding top of stroke and max lifter lift or should i spend the extra money and get a good set? moneys a bit tight and i probably won't need it ever again...well maybe for measuring gear backlash