Jeep Strokers

SilverXJ wrote:Those flares look nice. But maybe less lift or larger tires... but thats just my opinion.

Yes'' I know they look small, for these fender flares, But bleave it or not''' there 33x10.5 x 15's KM2's, some day
I'll go to a bigger tire size'' Ho'' just to know ,from the ground to the bottom of the drivers door is 22.5 inches

I thank I'll follow this build, MarineJRM did some awesome work on this Motor, and a new cam, from Comp cams
I hope it works for an 00 WJ Motor

Havent updated this in a while. The engine is in and running well on 87 octane and is still a TON more powerful than the 4.0 that was in the XJ. I am going to list my parts and specs for anyone looking to build a 4.6 stroker to run on regular unleaded.

4.0 Block bored .020 over and decked to 0.003
4.2 4 balance weight crank
4.2 707 cast rods
Ford EV6 #24 Injectors
68-232-4 Comp Cam
Comp Cams High Energy hydraulic lifters
Comp Cams Magnum push rods 9.6 inch
0630 Head ported and polished with complete valve job
Intake Ported and Polished
APN Header
Mopar Performance Head Gasket
Mopar Performance (Cloyes) True Double Roller Timing Chain
2000 Cherokee XJ Intake Manifold Ported and Polished
Throttle Body bored out to 63mm (Thanks SilverXJ on this one) http://www.strokedjeep.com [email protected] (his name is Jeff Leigh)
Federal Mogul Speed Pro Hypereutectic 825 Pistons dished to 20cc's (get with Oleshot on this forum for some very quality work on dishing)
Federal Mogul Speed Pro Moly Rings
Federal Mogul Speed Pro Bearings
Federal Mogul Oil Pump
Complete FelPro permadry rubber gasket kit (the valve cover and oil poan gaskets are super nice)

This put me around 8.3 DCR and I am running very nicely on 87 octane at the moment. I am having an SCT employee tune this thing for me as I am sure it is not running "Optimally" Further updates to come on the tuning...

Well I thank after lot of time reading these post, I 'll have to try going with , just doing the bottom end
258 crank and rods, and doing some porting this looks like the safest route, and I'll have to watch this
00 head, hopefuly its not cracked I've got over 195,000 miles on this engine . So I'll be looking at this head
really good, also i'll have the 24# ford fuel injectors, to go with the rebuild so its a simple rebuild and should
show some good returns

Check out my build under Bratcop in the build section. I detailed it on an 01 and have been very happy. Engine has about 35k on it since the rebuild and is extremely reliable. It is my wifes DD, puts on at least 60 miles per day and have gone on trips across the state, like 4-500 miles in a weekend (highway) with no problems, runs like a raped-Ape, will light up the tires from a dead stop, not bad for an auto inline six! Has so much more torque, when you shift into drive with foot on brake, it just kinda lurches forward, wanting to go...nice...

bratcop wrote:Check out my build under Bratcop in the build section. I detailed it on an 01 and have been very happy. Engine has about 35k on it since the rebuild and is extremely reliable. It is my wifes DD, puts on at least 60 miles per day and have gone on trips across the state, like 4-500 miles in a weekend (highway) with no problems, runs like a raped-Ape, will light up the tires from a dead stop, not bad for an auto inline six! Has so much more torque, when you shift into drive with foot on brake, it just kinda lurches forward, wanting to go...nice...

WOw Man'' That looks good, I've been reading your post on Piggie backs, do you have part # or web site info for
all the stuff you had to buy , I'm learning this stuff myself so doing all the reshurch befor and learning befor I have to
use it { like you did } or sence our WJ's are alike, what els do I need to do ??

I zero decked it and let the hg be the quench, runs on unleaded, no knock or ping. Obviously, I stayed with the stock cam, as it built pretty good bottom end torque already and all the horror stories I have seen on here about losing lifters and aftermarket cams and the like scared me a little bit. I reused the stock lifters, push rods, springs and rockers, too. My father has been building high perf motors since the 60's and he wasn't at all concerned about the difference in stock deck height affecting the valve train. I would spend some time match porting the head and intake. Time is free, and it will make a difference. I would also port the exhaust, just cleaning them up to match the gasket. Don't forget to machine out the throttle body, it give us some nice throttle response. Also, have Oleshot dish your pistons if you need it, he does some great work...have fun, and good luck with the build. Use the compression ratio calculator and find a guy who knows his engine parts. My machinist helped me order everything and I came in under 2k, near $1800. I also sold the piggyback and was using my laptop to read spec being fed back to the OBDII from the O2 sensors and decided I didn't need the piggyback, it was so close as it was. The injectors match the bigger intake volume nicely, and it idles really smooth. Its really quite amazing. Even my grizzly father who has built them all is impressed by how it runs and what it can do. Plus I got to spend some time with him while building it, which was probably the best part. Find someone to build it with and have fun.

My machinist just happen to have a 258 block in his back yard, Yes'' I got it for 75 & 10 a pice for the rods,
allso picked up 8, 24# cobra injectors XR3E-C5B. Still have to look at which crank he has
but sofar so good

I used those injectors and they were too large.

SilverXJ wrote:I used those injectors and they were too large.

What'' I thought the 24's where the right one's
Thank's SilverXJ, you saved ME ! if the 24's are to large, what did you Use

Those injectors aren't 24lbs. They are like 27lbs. Maxed out the wideband at rich on my 2000 . I have used Jeep 53032704AB injectors used on the 4.7L V8 with very good luck. They still run a bit rich but are no where near what the XR3E-C5B injectors were. You might want to do some research to see if you can find a true 24LB injector to use as I could have mine a bit leaner.

Thanks SilverXJ, I'll find something better, Ive got some PH# numbers I can call !

What harmonic balancer do I need to use, with a 4.2 crank, will the 2000 4.0 work/Fit ??
and will the flywheel flexplate, fit on the back of this new crank ?
Iam starting to build up some parts for my stroker build

The 2000 one will work fine. You may need a spacer to go on after the balancer depending on the year of your crank. Hesco sells one or you could cut up an old HB.

SilverXJ wrote:The 2000 one will work fine. You may need a spacer to go on after the balancer depending on the year of your crank. Hesco sells one or you could cut up an old HB.

Thanks SilverXJ Also the 2000 HB, has a keyway, and it fits just as the stock would ??
I dont know '' Iam just tring to figger all this stuff out, befor I get my engine all a part
is there anything else I should know, any'''' miner details ?

Yes, the HB will fit on the crank like stock. You just might need a spacer.

Depends how far you want to go if you have the porting and polishing kit you can clean up the oil drain back passages in the block a little. Before final cleaning, or before you take it to the machine shop. If you really want to doa lot of work you can clean up the casting on the block and head for better drain back (although i really don't know how much that actually helps). Same with the crank if it hasn't already been balanced. Be careful around any machined surfaces.