Jeep Strokers

UGH!.

Trying to install the pick-up arm into the Melling oil pump. WTF.
Watched their video on the website and .... I need a tool???
I don't have fangled clamps or even a torch.
Any tips or tricks ??

I'd use the old one if it wasn't so beat up and cruddy.

Before I got the tool I used to use the open end of a combination wrench, find one that fits tight and tap the wrench as close to the tube as you can, it is a tight fit!make sure the pickup screen is parallel to the pan rail.

Thanks, I'll try that. Do I have to measure for clearance of the screen or just use the same measurements as the stock pump??

Also, Melling recommends TIG welding the pick-up..
I can JB weld the HELL outta stuff, TIG..eh not so much

The wrench idea worked great. The curvature on the pick-up arm is different from the OEM one I took off.
I guess just measure till it's 3/8" - 1/2" from bottom of the pan????
Also, some say YES to the oil pump gasket, others say NO it'll just break off and clump.

I like tinkering but damn...

Damn. What a load of BS.

Use the oil pump gasket and adjust the pickup as you stated.

Use the gasket, and torque the bolts, 10ftlbs on the short bolt and 17ftlbs on the long bolt.
I use a protractor to level the pickup tube, set it on the pan rail and take a reading then on the screen and twist it to the same angle, never had a problem, but a tape and straight edge will work too, 3/8" clearance should be just fine.

IH 392 wrote:Use the gasket, and torque the bolts, 10ftlbs on the short bolt and 17ftlbs on the long bolt.

Where did those number come from? My 1995 & 2000 FSM specifies 17ft lbs for both bolts.

I use a protractor to level the pickup tube, set it on the pan rail and take a reading then on the screen and twist it to the same angle, never had a problem, but a tape and straight edge will work too, 3/8" clearance should be just fine.

Another method is to use silly putty. Put it on the bottom of the pickup, a little oil on the bottom of the pan, install pan, remove pan and measure. Add some for the pan gasket.

SilverXJ wrote:Where did those number come from? My 1995 & 2000 FSM specifies 17ft lbs for both bolts.

The "1976 SERVICE SPECIFICATIONS" for "CJ-5 CJ-7 CHEROKEE WAGONEER TRUCK" publication # J761000, I've torqued every iron six oil pump to those specs and never had any issue, maybe the aluminum pumps need to be tighter?

I've got a whole pile of those manuals, my grandpa worked at the AMC/JEEP garage here from before my time till the day they closed the doors.

IH 392 wrote:

SilverXJ wrote:Where did those number come from? My 1995 & 2000 FSM specifies 17ft lbs for both bolts.

The "1976 SERVICE SPECIFICATIONS" for "CJ-5 CJ-7 CHEROKEE WAGONEER TRUCK" publication # J761000, I've torqued every iron six oil pump to those specs and never had any issue, maybe the aluminum pumps need to be tighter?

I've got a whole pile of those manuals, my grandpa worked at the AMC/JEEP garage here from before my time till the day they closed the doors.

The pump is Iron so.. I dunno. If they are supposed to be torqued, can I reuse the bolts? The new pump didn't include them.
Maybe I can meet in the middle and go 14 LOL

I did get the pick-up arm in the pump. WAAAAAAY more secure than the stock pick-up. Stock one wiggled when I shook it.

The aluminum pump in my TJ was going fruity!, I pulled the pan and put in a new Melling M81 pump and pickup tube, right back to GOOD rock solid pressure, installed as I described above, NO issues for the last several years

OK. I'll probably try and adjust the screen tomorrow along with clearancing the oil pan. Right now it's sitting right on the bottom of the oil pan. That tubing definitely is stout

From what I gather , it's not the screen that needs clearancing, it's the body of the pump itself.
At least this was true with mine. I slathered some white moly grease on the bottom of the pan
then closed er up to see where the grease went. This has the advantage of leaving a trace on the guilty
object.
J.B.

The "HV" pumps hit the pan, the std pumps fit just fine, if you need an HV pump your bearing clearances are to big!
If the pickup tube is to close to the bottom of the pan it can starve at high rpm's, if it's off the pan 3/8" it has a good oil supply.

So are you saying I won't need the HV pump??
I'm not sure WHAT the bearing clearances are. I can check the machinists sheet and see if it says anything on there. Although ALOT of the info on what was done to the engine was kept by HIM as , I suspect, a collateral of sorts.

On the OEM pump, the pick-up arm literally FELL out of the pump when I wiggled it. If I were to re-use it I'd definitely have to braze that sucker in or something.

It's just effin overwhelming. I've never built a damn engine and this cocksucker literally drops this on us like this. Stoopid roller rocker bosses need ground down and tapped, adjusting the RR?? WHAT? HUH? How do I do THAT.
Use stock ones, but the pushrods for stock are missing.

Good news: Looks like the rocker bosses have already been tapped for the screw in studs.