cheap rebuild options??

[Muad'Dib]

Well i figured that as much, but i was thinking more along the lines of wear patterns etc. For example when you remove the head to replace a head gasket, you try and remove the pushrods in an order that you can remember or mark so that you can install them back in the same order. I didnt know if the same still kinda applied with using a different head..... if that makes since.

[SilverXJ]

Its not that critical with push rods... If you want to get technical I guess you should keep the push rods that were with the lifters you are using and keep the rockers that were with the head you are using. That would leave a possible incompatible wear issue at an easy to get to spot.

[IH 392]

I wouldn't worry about the pushrods, but you should keep the rocker arms paired together with the bridge they're on, they will have a fairly specific wear pattern.


One of they guys at work drove his Jeep today for the first time since he did a "Budget Overhaul" on it in the last couple of weeks, he tore into it because it was PUKING! about a quart of oil a day onto the road!, turned out that his crank was hashed!, got the crank turned , new rod and main bearings, we cut the ring ridge out of the cylinders and honed them, new rings, I knurled his pistons and he fit them, and I ground his valves and seats, new gaskets.
It doesn't knock when he starts it up now and it has good oil pressure now too, and he used the old pump too!
He said as long as it doesn't leak any more he'll be happy!?, the only problem he ran into was getting the distributor indexed properly.

Looking at the photo it looks like from the carbon in the exhaust ports it was burning some oil?, keep your fingers crossed when you tear into it!

[Muad'Dib]

When i picked up the engine, the guy didnt even drain the oil yet... so when we moved it, oil got all over the place.

Im hoping i can use everything i have to keep this cheap since i have $0 to begin with lol... im still struggling to find someone to loan me money lol!

Anyway, im waiting on a cherry picker then once i get that, ill tear into it and take pics etc..

[amcinstaller]

id lend you mine but im a little far away....

[Muad'Dib]

Just a little

[Muad'Dib]

Im going to be taking my head into the machine shop and have a valve job done. Should i leave the rocker arms \ bridges in place when i take it in? I was assuming if i did they would check those parts for abnormal wear for me.. but i wanted your guys take on it too.

Thanks!

[Bodo]

They have to take it all apart to do the valve job. You can leave it all on there. They may charge you a little more for teardown though.

[4.whoa]

Which head are you going to use, your old one or the one from your "new" engine? Are you doing the valve job just because its apart or is there a problem? I'm just asking cause I had a valvejob done to my 200k+ mj while replacing a headgasket but I didn't do anything else ie- rings. Now that the top is all sealed the blowby pumps out like crazy. No biggie in town but a mess on the highway

[Muad'Dib]

i was going to do it to another head i have laying around. All the machine shops in this area are super backed up, so i decided not to do it. Im just going to clean it really really well and replace the valve stem seals and put it in.

[Muad'Dib]

Head cleaning and stem seals have been replaced. Oven cleaner works wonders...

Anyway, today i should get a chance to get the block torn somewhat down, and start inspecting. I will take pictures so you guys can help me inspect the current state of things.

While i will have some of the engine apart, should i consider cleaning internals up with some brake cleaner or WD-40?

[lafrad]

Don't use oven cleaner on aluminum

Brake cleaner is GREAT to de-gunk and de-oil stuff in the engine.

Just follow the scrub down with brake cleaner with WD-40 so you prevent surface rust from forming.

As always, once you have the engine together again, prime the oil pump until you get solid pressure and oil through the pushrods. this way all the surfaces that need attention have the right type of oil. No worries about WD-40 in the pan though, it won't hurt a single thing.

[Muad'Dib]

Thanks that helps a ton!

[Muad'Dib]

Please take a look at these pics:

http://www.thewarezproject.org/Quick%20Engine%20Fix/

OR

http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/ ... ick%20Fix/

I removed just that one bearing cap for now to inspect the bearing and crank condition. Both look really good. My Nail didnt catch on any grooves on either... Should i definetly plan on inspecting all the main and rod bearings / surfaces?? Under the oil pan seemed to look pretty good. What do you guys think? How does the CAM look? Is that pretty normal cam wear?

Im concearned about the Cylinder Walls though. They are rusty. Should i consider taking a ball hone to it?? Or something like some WD40 and a scotch brite pad? Suggestions and rcommendations are extremely appreciated.

Thanks!!

[Muad'Dib]

Im really starting to think that this engine sat for a long time. I tried both a green and a blue scotch brite pad with WD40, and i couldnt get the walls smooth. In some really bad areas, i couldnt even get it clean looking.

I have read and gotten many recommendations to take a ball style hone to it and re-ring. I can get an economy Ring Set for about 50, but ball hones range anywhere from 90-140 for a 4" one. Not only that, they are hard to find... im going to check NAPA tomorrow, but i doubt anyone locally carries one (VatoZone, and CSK-Whatever auto doesnt for sure). Would i be better off using a stone type honer for this particular job??

Thanks for all your help and your time.