Jeep Strokers

The math he is using assumes that after you deck the block .020" (remove .020") the piston will be down in the bore .008" after that. Add .008" to .043" you get .051". Don't worry about the compression while reducing quench. The reduced quench will help combat detonation.

Ok, thats where I am getting confused. Im thinking the deck height with the 944's would be .0215, which i guess is stock height. However the deck height with the 944's is actually closer to .028. Is that correct? I believe i have got most of my questions answered and will be starting a build thread soon. The only other main question is setting the timing on a 2000. What i read states you have to have a scan tool to set it. Is that correct? Thanks for all the help i really appreciate it.

Ok i've brought myself more confusion. When I add the 944 pin height, 1.353, to the rod 4.0 rod length, 6.15, and finally to half the total stroke of the 258 crank, 1.9475, I get a total of 9.4505. From what i read in the faq's section the deck height is 9.45 - 9.456. Wouldn't that leave me with about a zero deck clearance? Or at the most 0.006?

live24wheel wrote:Ok, thats where I am getting confused. Im thinking the deck height with the 944's would be .0215, which i guess is stock height. However the deck height with the 944's is actually closer to .028. Is that correct?

Not exactly sure the deck height on the 944s without decking. But its around .020-.030" I just ask for the clearance I want.

The only other main question is setting the timing on a 2000. What i read states you have to have a scan tool to set it. Is that correct? .

No. To dial it 100% dead on (which really isn't that important, but can be done later, you require a DRB.) Search on here for tooth pick and you should find a PDF with a good write up on how to do it.

live24wheel wrote:Ok i've brought myself more confusion. When I add the 944 pin height, 1.353, to the rod 4.0 rod length, 6.15, and finally to half the total stroke of the 258 crank, 1.9475, I get a total of 9.4505. From what i read in the faq's section the deck height is 9.45 - 9.456. Wouldn't that leave me with about a zero deck clearance? Or at the most 0.006?

6.123" is the correct length of the 4.0L rod. Would be nice to have a rod that is 6.15"

Oh shoot thats right. I think its the eagle rods that as 6.15 or something like that. Hmm, i wonder if it would be worth it to go with the eagle rods vs having the 4.0 rods polished and shot and the block decked. Hmm. Choices choices.

The eagles can only be used on full floating pistons and the kb944s are press fit pistons, so the combo won't work(would be nice though, cause it would almost be a zero deck--the piston would be above deck about .002-.003").

Hey guys, got another question, this time about balancing. I talked to the owner of a balancing shop here in Phoenix about doing the maching and balancing. Hes been around a long time... I had originally gone to one machine shop and they source all there bigger work to them, so I figured cutting out the middle man some I would talk directly to them. Well he told me to bring my internalls to be balanced, i.e. Crank, rods and pistons. He told me we can just balance the harmonic balancer and flex plate later. I talked to the first machine shop andthis is what he told me, "I have known that man 30 years and I have never heard him tell someone to balance that stuff seperately, it all has to be balanced as one unit." So my question before I go down there later today, is this guy trying to cut corners with me? Does it all need to be balanced as one unit, balancer, crank flex plate, rods and pistons?

Thanks, Tom

An inline 6 is internally neutrally balanced. As such it needs no bob-weights like a v8 does when balancing the crank.

The crank can be balanced separately, with only a weight match on the rods and pistons.

This type of balance job is simple money for the machinist, drop the crank on the machine and spin it up.

So being that its easy money for him, as far as balancing and weight matching, can you recommend to me what all I should have done? Thanks for all the help and advice.

live24wheel wrote: I talked to the first machine shop andthis is what he told me, "I have known that man 30 years and I have never heard him tell someone to balance that stuff seperately, it all has to be balanced as one unit." So my question before I go down there later today, is this guy trying to cut corners with me? Does it all need to be balanced as one unit, balancer, crank flex plate, rods and pistons?

I have stoke with about 4 machine shops on balancing the inline 6. What they told me they do is weight match the pistons and rods, bringing them all to the same weight. Balance the flex plate, crank, and harmonic balancer separately. They use no bob weights on the crank because it is a neutral balance engine. V8s always need bob weights as do most other engines.

Awesome, I appreciate the info. Okay, so i have searched everything i can think of but cant find much on the topic of 1.7 roller rockers. I am trying to build a good performer but that will last and am really worried about running one of the big name Cams and i just cant find much on the smaller name guys. I need it to perform all the way to redline. With that said the stock valuetrain works and is proven to last. What will 1.7's do? Is there a calculation i can use to better understand it? If i choose to stick with the stock cam, as long as it appears to be in good shape are new cam bearings all thats needed or does the can need worked when you replace the bearings?

Don't know how much the 1.7 rockers will help, but it will essentially make the cam a bit bigger.. a bit more duration and lift. Divide the stock valve lift by 1.6/ That will get your lobe lift. Now multiply by 1.7 and that will get your new valve lift. Ex. .42" stock (just throwing it out) will be .446" with the 1.7" rockers

You will have to check the stock cam over for any wear. If you are re using the lifters keep them in order. They have a pattern from each cam lobe and need to go back on that lobe. Or you could use new lifters and run the cam break in procedure.

Can anyone tell me what the bolt sizes are for the bell housing? Trying to get it on my motor stand and think I got the size for the 3 upper bolts but not sure about the 2 lower bolts.

Thanks

7/16 for the two lower.

So this is a first for me. Got the motor most of the way tore down but am pretty sure I found a bad hole. Number one piston, pushrod came off the lifter and landed on the shelf right behind the timing cover, piston came up a couple times, hitting the valve and punched about a half inch hole through the casting into the timing area. My guess is the motor is done for and I get to shop for another 4.0 block. I figured it could make for some extra custom timing chain oiling capabilites...