Jeep Strokers

No pics available, drilling at the cam gear has been done a long time, by different builders,the two addl. sprays went on because of the cam failures exhibiting themselves at #6 cyl. Thought to try it. Seemed a logical place to test. The I6 heats to the rear, ever seen a EGT front to back on a good running I6. Any extra cooling lubrication there might help. We ran external oil lines on AMC 401's and old Fords to address problems. Thought it time to try something different. The Cam gear spray port is a Hesco fix from the late 60"s or early 70's. Let me look around for some more info.
John

Back already, from a current thread: http://www.hesco.us/forum/forum_posts.a ... PN=1&TPN=2
John

John wrote:No pics available, drilling at the cam gear has been done a long time, by different builders,the two addl. sprays went on because of the cam failures exhibiting themselves at #6 cyl. Thought to try it. Seemed a logical place to test. The I6 heats to the rear, ever seen a EGT front to back on a good running I6. Any extra cooling lubrication there might help. We ran external oil lines on AMC 401's and old Fords to address problems. Thought it time to try something different. The Cam gear spray port is a Hesco fix from the late 60"s or early 70's. Let me look around for some more info.
John

John, I would be very interested in more info on the holes you added. I already have the HV pump installed, adding a few holes to help the longevity of the cam is something I would be interested in trying.

The cam lobe spray is a test on my part, way too early to call any outcome. This link gives info, I went slightly smaller than is stated here. http://www.hesco.us/forum/forum_posts.a ... PN=0&TPN=2
John

John wrote:The cam lobe spray is a test on my part, way too early to call any outcome. This link gives info, I went slightly smaller than is stated here. http://www.hesco.us/forum/forum_posts.a ... PN=0&TPN=2
John

I'm not sure I understand the street version of his fix........You drilling form the inside or out side!

Flash wrote:

John wrote:The cam lobe spray is a test on my part, way too early to call any outcome. This link gives info, I went slightly smaller than is stated here. http://www.hesco.us/forum/forum_posts.a ... PN=0&TPN=2
John

I'm not sure I understand the street version of his fix........You drilling form the inside or out side!

Outside, drill & tap screw in squirt nozzle pointing where you want it. Extra fitting and line ran from the oil pressure sensor port.
John

John wrote:

Flash wrote:

John wrote:The cam lobe spray is a test on my part, way too early to call any outcome. This link gives info, I went slightly smaller than is stated here. http://www.hesco.us/forum/forum_posts.a ... PN=0&TPN=2
John

I'm not sure I understand the street version of his fix........You drilling form the inside or out side!

Outside, drill & tap screw in squirt nozzle pointing where you want it. Extra fitting and line ran from the oil pressure sensor port.
John

OK, that make more sence now!


Flash

I think I can pull that off, so put a t at where the pressure sensor goes and drill and put nice sealed fitting right above #6(edit: or where it'll hit both cam and lobe?) and run a <2' line to there?

gradon wrote:I think I can pull that off, so put a t at where the pressure sensor goes and drill and put nice sealed fitting right above #6(edit: or where it'll hit both cam and lobe?) and run a <2' line to there?

The article that John gave a link to is taking about dist, gear failures


My in-vision of it is, pull the dist. and i-ball a angle that would spray oil directly were the to gear surfaces meats.

fill the dist. hole with a rag and us a magnet to get all the chip out before pulling the rag out.

Flash

That is the basic approach, It also helps on that type of drilling to use a quantity of grease as the cutting lube to catch chips.
John

I would do it before I take the block to the machinist.

John, what are you using for the nozzle? Is it homemade or something that can be purchased? I would like to put some of the extra volume from the HV pump to use. I understand where to put it from flash's description, now I'm wondering exactly what kind of fitting you used. Doesn't seem to be a lot of room around the dist. base for a fitting so what I'm picturing I don't think would fit.

External fittings start life as a 1/4 inch brass hex head bolt, center drill to desired squirt size, head bored to accept a stub of copper tubing silver soldered in for connection with a compression fitting.

That's close to what I have. 1/16" NPT brass pipe plug (5/16" hex at top) drilled to accept 1/8" brass tubing, silver soldered into the plug. The tube has an ID of .050" that I'm going to try crushing down to .040". Drill and tap block, insert fitting then bend to Tee fitting at the oil pressure sending unit.

That could work, if you cut the tubing end, intentionally, with a dull tube cutter, you might swag the end below what you are looking for?????? I like to keep such block openings as small as practical and using a bolt gives one a chance to drill at a angle to aim the spray. Use brass washers to shim to desired stop point. I have a 1 quart aerosol refillable sprayer that is top fill, air pressurized, (Schrader valve) with the spray nozzle adapted to compression fittings at the end of a flex hose.. Fill with oil, pressurize to the system pressure is for the block you are working on and look inside when you pull the spray trigger, Have found the need to spray somewhere else for best results. Internal sprays and spray bars can be tested similarly.
John