Jeep Strokers

Here are a couple of web sites on adjusting rockers.
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instr ... es/250.pdf
http://www.harlandsharp.com/tech_tips.htm

SilverXJ wrote: Setting the preload correctly (which your method does not) negates this measurement.

You want to bet your next engine on your statement here?

It would be sheer luck if your method actually set preload correctly. The only way that would work is if you have a lifter that has a movement depth of .11" max. even at that you would have a preload range of .0475" to .060". And you would have to use nothing but that lifter, as would everyone that you tell that method to... in which case, how do you know what lifter the OP is using? Go ask any machine shop what preload you should use and they will give you a number, not something along the lines of "as long as the lifter has at least .05" before it bottoms out"

And I am not betting anything with you because your method is just plain wrong.

SilverXJ wrote:It would be sheer luck if your method actually set preload correctly. The only way that would work is if you have a lifter that has a movement depth of .11" max. even at that you would have a preload range of .0475" to .060". And you would have to use nothing but that lifter, as would everyone that you tell that method to... in which case, how do you know what lifter the OP is using? Go ask any machine shop what preload you should use and they will give you a number, not something along the lines of "as long as the lifter has at least .05" before it bottoms out"

And I am not betting anything with you because your method is just plain wrong.

This website is pretty much a waste of time, as I suspected before I joined.

Bunch of armchair engine builders.

Whatever floats your boat. There are no reasons for insults either. I'll set my preload the way I feel is correct, and you can set it whatever way you feel like.

Corey: I was hoping for some good input from you when you joined. You have experience that can be helpful to many people here. You immediately gave advice to forget about quench, you gave a little misinformation about 96 being obd1 and had an attitude when someone corrected you, and now because you don't use this method of checking preload, you call us a bunch of armchair mechanics? It's simple: if you don't want to help the stroker community out don't come here. Your negativity is not welcome.

Probably the only reason Corey is here is to try and sell some of his stroker kits he is talking about over on Pirate. I really respect Corey's fab skills and willingness to push the limit trying stuff, but there are plenty of people over on Pirate hardcore who are willing to kiss Corey's ass. None of us know everything.
And by the way, it's not like we are curing cancer or saving the world from the next great asteroid collision. We are building stupid jeep engines because it's what we like to do. It's not worth getting pissed about.

This website is pretty much a waste of time, as I suspected before I joined.

Bunch of armchair engine builders.[/quote]

With that statement you have just insulted almost 1000 members here on this board. And because of that statement I think you should be banned. There are people on this board that have all different levels of experience. From the first time engine builder to advanced engine builders. Everyone has always tried to help those who need it, or to listen from those who want to help. I think constructive criticism, and arguing a point is appreciated, but rude insulting comments should not be tolerated. Bye Bye, you WILL NOT be missed.

YJ_and_Corey wrote:This website is pretty much a waste of time, as I suspected before I joined.

Bunch of armchair engine builders.

There is a LOT! of good information on this sight, some not so good, people that think they now it all and expect everyone else to do it their way or it'll never work often bring the not so good information, it's because of guys like Cory that I don't participate over on "Pirate", I won't kiss his ass, I might put my foot in it!, I'm certainly no "armchair engine builder"!

dang well sorry i didnt' mean to piss a bunch of people off lol i just needed some better understanding of lifter preload. thanks for the information fellas.

03GC wrote:Probably the only reason Corey is here is to try and sell some of his stroker kits he is talking about over on Pirate.

This could not be further from the truth. I joined up to try and save a few more people from building budget strokers using 4.2 rods and 4.0L pistons. I didn't mention the kits here. I've built over 15 engines now, so I figured I may have a few things to add. But obviously you guys have it all figured out!

Gradon:

If quench is SO important in the 4.0L, then why are many of the engines I have built running the pistons backwards in the bores? How is that possible?

From the literature I have read, the people I have talked to, and the (limited) experience I have with building engines (everyone has got to start somewhere), I understand quench to be a 'Secondary' for encouraging good combustion without detonation. The primary thing to promote that (provided fixed combustion chamber shape) is giving the fuel mixture octane. Either through better quality gasoline, water injection, water/meth injection, etc etc etc.

My jeep short-rod stroker is the first I6 I have build, but I have put together a few of the modern 3G hemis, and tuned quite a few more than that. for the Hemi builds that are "Close" in combustion chamber shape and CR, the ones with better quench have ALWAYS enjoyed more low RPM high-load timing without knock, assuming the same fuel used. the Hemi's really enjoyed a rich fuel mixture up high in the RPM range, so the quench meant less and less compared to the relatively cool rich AFR's that they desired.

Since most of the more "budget" builds do involve using inexpensive parts that put the piston into a situation where only a little effort can be spent to actually GET "ideal" quench, it only makes sense to maximize it where possible. IT CAN'T HURT.

If you are building a custom piston motor and excellent control over CR, or are setting up to run high octane (either fuel or with additive), or are looking to go Forced Induction (where other factors are going to be much more significant in keeping knock under control), then really, who cares about quench.

but, when you are working on a fixed budget, have no real control over the timing curve, have no knock sensors, and want to run as inexpensive of fuel as possible, quench just makes sense.

YJ_and_Corey wrote:

03GC wrote:Probably the only reason Corey is here is to try and sell some of his stroker kits he is talking about over on Pirate.

This could not be further from the truth. I joined up to try and save a few more people from building budget strokers using 4.2 rods and 4.0L pistons. I didn't mention the kits here. I've built over 15 engines now, so I figured I may have a few things to add. But obviously you guys have it all figured out!

Gradon:

If quench is SO important in the 4.0L, then why are many of the engines I have built running the pistons backwards in the bores? How is that possible?

NO, with your attitude, it seams as if YOU have everything figured out and everyone else is wrong. If you want to add something to this board, it can be done respectfully. May I quote you? "This website is pretty much a waste of time, as I suspected before I joined.", "I figured I may have a few things to add. But obviously you guys have it all figured out!"
So this board is a waste of time and everyone here knows everything. That's a good way to "add a few things" to this board. I applaud your efforts.
Ok I'm done

Lets get back on topic here fellas..

For the record .. we are all allowed to have our own opinions and to share those opinions. But the way i run this board says do not and i will repeat DO NOT put down, slander, or humiliate other members here. Its unacceptable. Our Forum rules states that specifically: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/rules.php

Muad'Dib wrote:Lets get back on topic here fellas..

For the record .. we are all allowed to have our own opinions and to share those opinions. But the way i run this board says do not and i will repeat DO NOT put down, slander, or humiliate other members here. Its unacceptable. Our Forum rules states that specifically: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/rules.php

bla bla bla for the record, your opinion is also invalid. Like many others on this board, it is not based on experience. There is a word for that, it's called web knowledge.
Your insistence on quench height being of any value in a 4.0L is ridiculous. It is simply not true.

And thats why yourself and many others will continue to believe the persistent myths pertaining to the 4.0L