Jeep Strokers

Another pic:

AlexTJ wrote:

dwg86 wrote:It could have been running lean because of the vaccume port for the PCV is above number 5 cylinder. Sucking oil through the pcv into #5 causing a lean condition.

Interesting......

Isn't there that shield like thing in the top of the valve cover that would negate the PCV being right above 5 though?

So far I'm thinking it was my PVC issue that gave me oil leaks. Running low on oil gave me piston ring wear and cyl 5 got the worst of it. '

Oh yeah, all of the pistons are very wiggly and a few, especially 5, will rock. Pretty sure they're not supposed to do that ideally, correct?

Wiggle is identical to this guys: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNCqZXjY ... _embedded#

Yes there is a baffle, but if your rings are worn, you can get excessive blow by being sucked up by the pcv.

My pcv valve was sucking oil and my engine was pinging bad.(My homemade baffles didn't work on my steel valve cover. Running roller rockers). So I installed a stock aluminum valve cover...no more sucking oil and pinging is gone. I also oil fouled #6 plug. #5 plug was pretty bad also. On the 99 and up intake the vaccume port is right above #5 and #6 intake runner.

Piston 1 was the cause of my terrible noise. You can watch the piston move and make the noise as you rotate the engine

So, piston 5 is burned, piston 1 is the noise maker?

That sucks!

More than just cyl 1 make noise but thats the worst one...

Randomly checked rod side clearance before I pulled cam, looks like cyl 1 and cyl 6 have a bit over .020"....

Just pulled the cam out, how to I identify it? I'm seeing these stamped on the cam: "EP-88", "CWC", "D-2", "10 7"(?)

Is it stamped or cast in? Your looking for something stamped. Look at the end.

There are no stamped numbers on either end of the cam, one end has a 'D" but thats it...

EDIT: Triple checked. Numbers on the shaft itself are cast, but there is nothing on either end of the cam other than the D.....

I seem to remember the 'build sheet' that came with this thing saying '212/212' for cam. That would lead me to believe that it is a 68-201-4 but I'm pretty sure it would be marked being a comp cam. I was looking at Titan's website and it looks like they use Enginetech's kit on 'most' of their strokers with an Enginetech 'high torque' cam.

Either way, this kinda sucks trying to rebuild this engine and not knowing what I have to work with...

The Comp cams are all labeled on the rear of the cam.

I measured the lobes on cyl 1 and got:

Intake - 0.2796x1.6= 0.4474"
Exhaust - 0.2784x1.6= 0.4462'

This would seem to be a 68-201-4........but it has no markings??????!

Deciding if I want a new cam or not...
With the one I have I would pull nicely to about 3k but after that it just sorta went flat.

Anyone have a suggestion for a cam that would noticeably help after 3k without sacrificing too much low end? Or should I keep the one I have and see what happens with a bigger throttle body (its currently still stock) and header (this is coming anyway)?

I don't do much rock crawling (closest place with rocks is 2.5 hrs away), mostly mud, and on the street I usually have my foot in it. Currently geared at 4.11 w/ 33s but 4.56s will be coming when there's cash.

I am running an Engle 214 duration @ .050, .501 lift, 112 lobe centers, advanced 3 degrees. It seams to come on about 1200 rpm and it will pull to 4500 rpm. It will go to the rev limiter, but doesn't really pull after 4500. They also have a smaller cam 209 @ .050, .489 lift. These cams are made specifically for the bigger .904 diameter lifter. They are a fast ramp design. They are custom ground cams, and you can mix and match lobe profiles (example: intake dur 209 @ .050, .489 lift/ ex. dur 214 @ .050, 501 lift). I went with the same lobe on intake and exhaust. The 112 lobe center has a slight lobe whan the engine is cold, but smooths out after the engine is warm. The computer doesn't have any problems with the cam, and I don't have a check engine light. If you went any bigger than a [email protected] duration cam I might widen the lobe centers to 113 or 114. The narrower you can keep the lobe centers the flatter the torque curve will be. The wider the lobe center, the torque curve will be peakier (if thats a word). If the duration is smaller, you can run a narrower lobe center and still have enough overlap for good vaccum. That is what the computer controlled fuel injection needs to see to work correctly. I think this is why the old Mopar 30ab cam worked so well. The duration @ .050 was 200, and the lobe centers were 108. That produced a good flat torque curve.

Engle doesn't list a jeep 6 cylinder cam on thier website. The amc lobe profiles are the same ones Engle uses for the Jeep 6 cam. http://englecams.com/downloads/2010_engle_catalog.pdf

I wish my compression was a little higher. My static comp ratio is 9.25:1 and dynamic is 7.75:1, zero deck .043 quench. I can run 87 octane with no ping. I think I could run 9.5 static and 8.0 dynamic with this setup on 87 octane.

Got everything apart. Pistons are marked 2228 (so silvolite then) and .06 ..... I'm hoping that cylinder 5 isn't so worn that it has to be bored cause I'd like to not have to find a new block. Piston #5 had metal melt over and seal the top ring where that chip was, kind of funny if it wasn't costing me time and money.

I'm questioning how I could supposedly have a 9.25:1 CR when these pistons definitely don't look dished....... They still have these raised dots and arrows on the piston tops....

Going to the machine shop tomorrow hopefully....

Also, since I don't know anything about this engine, what measurements do I need to make and know before sending it away to the machine shop?

Another thing I thought was weird was the plug that sits right behind the rear end of the cam was worn from the back of the cam. Normal? (may get a pic later)

Ok took it to a local machine shop today. Fortunately it turns out it was bored .040 over so I'll be taking it to .060. Unfortunately the crank was previously taken down to .030 and .060.....thanks titan.....lol, looking for a new crank....

Check out Scat cranks. They have a crank that can be had for $400, maybe less through your machine shop.