Oil pump: high volume or high pressure

[SilverXJ]

I can move the passenger side of the oil pan out by about 2 inches before it hits the transmission lines and up about 3" before it hits the starter. That would give me roughly 1 extra quart there. I'm going to add a baffle at the rear, but should I weld the front of the stock baffle to the pan? Also, what about side baffles on the sump? I'm planning on cutting everything my self then finding someone to to weld it up. I think I cam minimize the number of welds bu using the brake at work.

[IH 392]

I'm looking at running 360 oiling (grooved main bearing shell on top and bottom.. rods get oil pressure for the entire cycle), HV pump, and work out a "squirter" for the distributor gear.

the oiling should encourage a bit more oil to be slung at the cam, and also pressure oil the rod bearings for ALL aspects of the otto cycle...

There is a reason the OEM's DON'T! use 360 grove mains, the thrust on the available bearing surface is three or four times that of a non grooved bearing, if you want that much oil cross drill the crank.

[lafrad]

With a 7 main, 6 cyl crankshaft, I'm not at all worried about the load capacity of the main bearings on this crank. after 150K+++ miles on the original engine, the main bearings came out FLAWLESS. never worn, never EVER any metal on metal contact. I'm willing to chance it... especially on a motor that will rarely see anything above 4500-5000 rpm.

Crossdrilling every main will actually weaken the cast crank, allowing more flex... at ANY rpm. Thats the last thing I want to do.

[SilverXJ]

Those that have done or are working on the cam gear oiling mod, where are you getting your parts from? I am having a problem trying to find them locally.

[dwg86]

Hey Silver, I got the fittings from the local Ace Hardware Store. They didn't have the 1/8 copper line. I bought an oil line gauge kit from Autozone for the copper line. The compression fittings from the line kit and the fittings from Ace are a little different. I used the fittings from Ace.

After I figured out how deep I wanted the line to go to the gear, I tightened the compression fitting down. Then I put a .020 stainless wire in the copper line, smashed the line with a pair of pliers, and the removed the stainless wire. There was plenty of oil flowing onto the gear with the .020 hole in the line. http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... m+gear+oil

[nukfyrsq]

My 4.6 is assembled awaiting the arrival of custom length pushrods. I installed a Melling HV after much research and varying opinions. My machinist, who has been building engines for drag racing, mud boggers, round track racing, aside from general rebuilds, recommended against a HP pump and was on the fence regarding the HV. With the engine on the stand and filled with 6 quarts of Rotillia 10/30 at room temperature; ~85 degrees, spinning the HV pump at ~1500rpm with an electric drill, a mechanical oil pressure gauge at the filter indicated ~70psi.

I've been toying with the idea of a pressurized oil accumulator for pre oil starts and pressure drops under various conditions. The Moroso or Canton systems in the 1-2 quart range new are running ~$250-$350. Thoughts?

[SilverXJ]

I think the pressurized accumulator would be a great idea. The way I understand them is that they can pressurize the system prior to starting as well.

[Biggrnjeep97]

Stopped by my machine shop on the way to work this morning and asked this very question. I was told the only two options he recommended were stock or high pressure. The reason being that unless you have a LARGE capacity oil pan ~10qts+ you'll run your sump/pan dry. A high pressure pump will flow roughly the same quantity of oil as a stocker but the pressure relief valve is set higher to provide a higher pressure. I did, however, not take into account the fact that youve grooved your lifter bores and that MAY have a different pressure/flow requirement to my application.

[gradon]

Go with the stock--the high volume one I run has too much oil pressure and is more than likely providing more parasitic loss than necessary.

[dwg86]

I was concerned about running the sump dry with a HV pump. I had no problems with any oil issues during break in. I ran my engine at 2500 rpm for 20 minuets. I also don't believe the engine needs a HV pump. I bought a HV pump because it was cheaper and it came with a pick up tube.

I also ran my engine at 4000 rpm for about 10-20 seconds to try to clean out the carbon from my PCV valve sucking oil. I kept an eye on the oil pressure gauge. No fluctuations or drop in pressure.

[gradon]

That's why I bought it too: cheaper and came with the pickup.