Jeep Strokers

Again noob here...

I think since we are using a cam that uses a drive chain instead of idler gears (V8 & V6 as on youtube and pdf files mentioned before) you should not reverse directions of the crank to calculate the timing and degrees. The chain will have a little play or back lash that might effect the readings on the degree wheel. I believe that you need to always turn the crank in a clockwise direction to achieve the correct measurements.

Again, I have never degreed a cam so I could be incorrect...anyone please feel free to correct me. Good luck!

omegatron wrote:Again noob here...

I think since we are using a cam that uses a drive chain instead of idler gears (V8 & V6 as on youtube and pdf files mentioned before) you should not reverse directions of the crank to calculate the timing and degrees. The chain will have a little play or back lash that might effect the readings on the degree wheel. I believe that you need to always turn the crank in a clockwise direction to achieve the correct measurements.

Again, I have never degreed a cam so I could be incorrect...anyone please feel free to correct me. Good luck!

He has it right, don't build up slack errors.
John

Ok so how can you go backwards without a chain slack error?

You don't go backwards. If you miss the point you want just reverse about 20* then go forward again. For finding TDC it doesn't matter if you go forward or backwards because you are measuring the piston, not the cam.

Ok thanks, one more question I have( for now). The teeth on my new timing set are much wider open than the stock teeth were . Could this make a big difference? Once I have my degree numbers I really am not sure what I need to do. Adjust the cam? I am unable to do that with this cam other than to advance or retard the cam sprocket. Thanks

Maddawg wrote:Ok thanks, one more question I have( for now). The teeth on my new timing set are much wider open than the stock teeth were . Could this make a big difference?

Not if it is the right set. What timing set are you running? Besides using a double row chain, the Cloyes I run are beefier in other areas also. Do you have a large degree wheel to use? I like the largest diameter one that I can afford.
John

I have an single Engine tech chain and gears, using a 11" degree wheel

I have a larger degree wheel that was IIRC $50... larger = more accurate. But for checking purposes yours should be fine. Especially if you are off as much as a tooth, like I was, it will be very evident... like off 13*.

Ok, dergreed my cam all seems well but I had 112 lobe int and specs are 110. I tried to fire it and it turns over but won't start. After cranking it a few times it wants to start( yeah ok) and will backfire. just running out of ideas. Thanks

Ok got the enigine to fire evry time key is turned. Runs REALLY ruff with no ower yet. The 2 center plugs are not burning fuel at all. The 2 at front and back are burning and real wet. any further thoughts? I did relpace the coil rail.

What head are you running with the coil rail? The coil rail needs to be grounded. I am running the 7120 head with a coil pack/rail. When I changed my plugs, I set set the coil rail on the plugs without putting on the straps that attach the rail to the head. When I started the engine it ran like crap. I remembered reading on Hesco's forum that the coil rail gets grounded through the attach bolts, and it needed to be grounded. So I put all 4 straps back on that attach from the coil rail to the valve cover bolts. When I started the engine it ran smooth.

Also, try re-indexing the cam sensor.

We did index the sensor already after replacing the coil pac which got it to run.I have the 0331 head, but trying to ground it couldn't hurt. I'll give it a try.

It should ground through the attach bolts. Just make sure the bolts are grounded. You can use an ohm meter on the head of the bolt and somewhere on the block. Also check your valve prload. Make sure your valves aren't staying open. Maybe a compression check.

Well good news, got the ole Jeep running good . The center coil pack had a large crack in it and the PCM was fried. Not sure if it was related or not.Currently running 93 in it for a couple hundred miles then gonna start lowering to see if it will run on 87. At the moment the display is saying I'm getting about 12mpg hoping it works it's way up.......LOL. Thanks for the responses and I'll keep updates coming in a couple days.