Jeep Strokers

I'm guessing you weren't noting the ubiquity of Strohs as a sponsor of seemingly totally unrelated Jeep racing teams....

Anyway Dry sump system. Running off the timing set? maybe a gear drive with an extra cog for the multi stage oil pump (four stage pump it looks like) Hard to imagine they fit a timing chain setup inside that machined cover... its slewed over to the passenger side way more than a stock cover and doesn't look like there's much room for the cam's timing gear. The snout in front of the cover where the oil pumps are looks like a mechanical fan mount. Hard to make out whats going on with the distributor.

I could not tell from the photo if it was wet or dry sump, with a external pump. The Navarro motor ran external pump also. I have to wonder the effects of removing this load from the distributor shaft. If you look at the very bottom of the custom timing cover, it looks to join in at the same location as a stock timing set with the dark (pan) going on below. Might be enough room for a timing set in there, gear drive likely? Unless you was going to do a level II motor and rev 9k a wet system would handle our needs. I saved the photo and took it to photoshop for study.
John

Yeah I can't tell if its dry but I'm assuming... if you're going to go external pump then a dry sump is only one trivial step further.
Sure that cover may have enough room; hard to tell from the angle, however the cog for the oil pump and mechanical fan is taking up space that really isn't there with a conventional cam sprocket for a chain...

It's a dry sump engine

Here is a little teaser vid. Just got started mapping my Turbo 4.0.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWhaTvfG9I8

COOL!!!!

342HP & 450 TQ!!! And i thought i was having rear axle problems!!! Looks and sounds awesome!

What is the clutch/transmission/rear end you'll be have this mounted to?

It's going in a Spirit drag car. 904 trans, reverse manual valve body, 9.5" PTC 4000 RPM stall. 9" ford rear, moser axles and spool.
It's made 465 ft/lbs and 395 HP at 4500..then pushed the stock 60K mile head gasket out. Like I said this is just the first testing on the dyno.




There will be more to come.

How much boost did the head gasket take before it let go?

X2 very interesting... what kind of RPM did it make?

Tom is right, the last pic of the Hesco engine in the link is a dry sump. That oil pump unit is driven off of the gear drive. Specifically the cam gear. On the end of the pump is a SBC Pete Jackson gear that meshes to the cam gear, getting direct drive. Now with the cam running a 1/2 engine speed and a SBC Pete Jackson gearing being smaller than the jeep cam cam gear the pump is running about 40% or so of engine speed + or minus.

SIXPAK, thanks for chiming in on this thread, as it was mentioned earlier that you were turning more rpm's than most of us, I have to ask for your thoughts of the reported issue of harmonic issues with the I6. I had posted links to the Hesco page and earlier to the Navarro motors hoping to get feedback on this as a possible aid for many problems, Dry sumps are great for lowering the motor as well as controlling oil feed, improving reliability and reducing parasitic drag from windage issues. Besides I don't like speed on a oil slick if you put holes in your oil pan. But anyway are we over worrying this issue, any thoughts you can share on this would be appreciated.
John

Turbo Tom and I spoke of this a few weeks ago. The most I had to offer was that I too have been made aware of the issue. From my experience as Tom reported in an earlier post was that I have stretched many a Cloyes double roller chains. Once performance level of the motor dropped, I would pull it apart, replace the chain and go on with life. At the time the had a manual trans and would be launched at 6100, go through 3 gears in 300 feet. All this time working in the 5350-5750 rpm band. Accepting the fact that a gear drive eats a little power I switched from the Cloyes. These days the motor stalls at 5200, gets shifted from 5800 to 6500 depending on the track behind an Automatic trans. I have broken one crank where #5 rod journal of the crank COMPLETELY broke away--crank in three pieces. I removed another crank that I had been running for many years. When the motor was pulled down for a re-ring job and the crank was magna fluxed it was cracked in 5 places, 3 of which was by #5 rod journal. Motor showed no sign of any issue other than poor leak down. Now, the broken crank motor was not turned "excessively". Say, past 6100. But the crank that was crack in 5 places was at times abused in the mid to upper 7000 range. Current motor,Tom can verify, has seen many passes at 7000 in the traps doing the 1/4 mile. As of today, that crank is in the need of repair due to a balancer coming loose and damaging the crank snout. ALL ABOVE HISTORY is a stroker motor.

Other than Garth's motor, I have an freind who used to run e/ea NHRA with a 4.0 than spun his 9300--and a CLOYES double roller. I asked him when we met what he was using for a timing chain. I told him my experience and he sounded surprised that I ever had problems with making the double rollers last because he really never had an issue.

No real answers John, just experiences here. BTW, tell my 3 buddies I said Hi.

Thanks for the food for thought SIXPAK, very interesting experiences. The crankshafts, 4 CW cranks both?
John

Both were 12cw cranks. My current crank is a 4cw that has the bad balancer snout on it. I'm going to have it repaired and before I use or prep any more cranks in the future it will be standard operating proceedure to check the O.D. of the snout for proper size. I have good reason to believe that it was undersize causing a fitment propblem.