Jeep Strokers

How could i check this? I had to take a break from it all before i smashed it all with a BFH.

I guess the easiest (and least accurate) way to check this, would be to get into the "0 psi @ idle" situation, then shut down the engine and quickly go check the oil level with the dipstick.

if there is very little oil (or much less than if you let it sit for a few minutes) then the oil is pooling up somewhere...

its a long shot, as the pushrod holes allow for a LOT of drainback, but who knows, eh?

Ill give that a shot when i get off work and see whats up.

Again with this being my first rebuild (albeit half ass) does the engine really not have much power when the rings are seating?

It shouldn't be lacking that much power while the rings are seating.

Yeah something is seriously wrong with this build....

Have you made any headway?

Ive had to take a break from it all before i got too stressed. I even got sick for a few days with a sinus infection.

The first thing im going to do is budget out how much a stroker is going to cost me compared to just doing a rebuild. Then ill figure out what path im going to take. Either way the engine will be pulled and stripped.

I personally think two things are going on. The wrong size rod bearings were installed causing little to no oil pressure, and the cam is bad making a ton of top end noise.

Any recommendations on a stock replacement cam?? Or know of one that is very good shape??

Anyone got anything about the stock cam replacement?

Would a Comp 68-231-4 be good for a rebuild, or something more like the Mopar Performance P4529228ab?

Or even a sealed power CS809?

I'm running a 68-231-4. I don't have a stroker yet and I built it long before I found this site its .060 over. Cam is 4* adv. Don't know the springs (shop took care of that). Block was decked.030 and head .040 (supposed to be anyway) the only "porting" I did was to take the edge off the block where the chamber overhangs. It pulls real good. With cruise on 70-74 it gets about 20 mpg with a 3" lift and 275-60-15 tires. ONLY thing I don't like is the noisy valvetrain.

any other suggestions?

Depends what you want. all low end grunt, get the 68-231-4. Want more top end look for something with more duration. Its more like personal preference.

FWIW - I had this engine in my 5spd trk 1st now its in with a aw4. With the 5spd it'll make you grinn ear to ear when you get on it and you can go through all kinds of tires with the aw4 it'll still get up n go(and well), but you definitely loose some off the line grunt. I'd go with some more duration with the auto. Just some pennies for thought

SilverXJ wrote:Depends what you want. all low end grunt, get the 68-231-4. Want more top end look for something with more duration. Its more like personal preference.

Actually im thinking also along the lines of cheap as possible... more like not having to replace the springs / retainers / locks.. Just a stock replacement really.

I've been looking at Dino's cam spec page (I have an engine i need to rebuild fairly cheap as well) and i saw an erson cam E720112
It has 280/288 seat duration and 208/214 @.050 which should keep valvetrain quiet i think,.448/.458 lift that should work with stock springs,depending on what you read.and 112 LCA so vacuum should be ok. At least that's how i'm reading it.(please feel free to school me if i'm wrong)
However, I haven't found one yet.