Jeep Strokers

John wrote:

Flash wrote:Here's the link that was given a page back............this is the company that make the lifters.........But i can't find then on the page!!!!!!

http://www.crower.com/misc/m_cat.shtml

Flash check the pages 140 - 155 and see the lifters.
John

That's real intesting, not only is it Crower thats the one that make the cam savers...........but they are the ones with the small hole in the face of the lifter(EDM OILING) on there extreme mechanical flat tappet cam.

For those that are interested, page 140, have the cam savers and the next page has the EDM oilers.

THANKS John

Flash

I ordered a set.They have a small flat spot down the side of the lifter that is supposed to give the came more oil. We'll see when it gets assembled and driven 25k miles. I ordered them directly from Crower for $105.44 shipped. The p# is 66031x3-12. Look here for a few pics: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=71&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=15

Frank, i was just reading up on you other Jeep sight, as I was reading of the description of the piston failure.................
Do you thing a bad injector could have compounded the situation, causing that cylinder to over heat..........
Not to give you reason to spend more cash on this project.


Flash

Sorry for the delay in responding, Been busy trying to replace my service van that caught fire.

No I don't think that the injector is bad but I'll keep an eye on it when I finally get the motor finished.

FWIW, my machine shop received the replacement piston last Thursday and was working on the machining last time I talked to them. I won't get it from him until I can pay him for everything. He's been very understanding and I insist on paying as I go, so to speak.

FrankZ wrote:Sorry for the delay in responding, Been busy trying to replace my service van that caught fire.

No I don't think that the injector is bad but I'll keep an eye on it when I finally get the motor finished.

FWIW, my machine shop received the replacement piston last Thursday and was working on the machining last time I talked to them. I won't get it from him until I can pay him for everything. He's been very understanding and I insist on paying as I go, so to speak.

Wow! Were you in it when it happen? What kind of van?
Flash

Started a different thread...
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=190

Progress..... wOOT!

Got my last piston installed.
All bearing caps torques down.
Girdle installed.
Cylinder head installed and new head bolts torqued.
Oil pan installed.

Checked the lifter preload and found that it's pretty darn high, around .150", it should be .020 to .060. So I'm now in the process of finding some push rods that are .090 to .130 shorter than stock. Anyone have a source?

FrankZ wrote:Progress..... wOOT!

Got my last piston installed.
All bearing caps torques down.
Girdle installed.
Cylinder head installed and new head bolts torqued.
Oil pan installed.

Checked the lifter preload and found that it's pretty darn high, around .150", it should be .020 to .060. So I'm now in the process of finding some push rods that are .090 to .130 shorter than stock. Anyone have a source?

So what cost it to change so much? did you go with some after market rocker arms this time...........or did the cam change, make that much difference

Flash

With original stroker build and Crane cam I was able to use some shims (approx. .030") under the rockers to obtain the proper lifter preload. The new cam has a higher lift (duh!). I checked the preload without the shims under the rockers and the amount of preload posted above reflects that.

Installing more shims is a band-aide that would also require installing a valve cover spacer...not something I want to do.

Check out 258 pushrods I seem to recall them being .1" shorter, not sure, don't have a set on hand to check.
John

After thought (AKA brain fart) Lee can furnish about any length you want.
John

Lee?

Bennie sent me a pushrodlength.doc that I can email you or if muad dib(I'm always saying Mobb Deep, lol) wants to host it in the parts/faq section then that'll be cool. The pushrods are made by Pioneer and Sealed Power, so they aren't hesco exclusive(they don't need our advertisements, but they will get our praise every now and then.).
I'll probably end up with the RP 3257's @ 9.602". You probably want the RP 3190 or 3197. I haven't tried to search for them on the net, but from hesco they cost 3x's as much as factory pushrods when you factor in shipping.
Edit:

Manufacturer Length Part Number Engine Year
Sealed Power 9.641 RP 3275 4.0L 1987-96
“ “ 9.748 RP 3276 4.2L 1989-90
“ “ 9.695 RP 3235 4.2L 1983-88
“ “ 9.622 RP 3200 4.2L 1981-82
“ “ 9.594 RP 3171 4.2L 1980

Custom Length Push Rods

Sealed Power 9.500 RP 3186
“ “ 9.513 RP 3190
“ “ 9.547 RP 3197
“ “ 9.620 RP 3172
“ “ 9.602 RP 3257

Manufacturer Length Part Number Engine Year
Pioneer 9.639 PR-437 4.0L 1987-96
“ 9.728 PR-399 4.2L 1989-90
“ 9.700 PR-353 4.2L 1983-88
“ 9.622 PR-333 4.2L 1977-80
“ 9.594 PR-301 4.2L 1972-76 Stamped Rocker
“ 9.656 PR-332 4.2L 1971-74 Cast Rocker

Custom Length Push Rods
Pioneer 9.500 PR-310
“ 9.547 PR-327
“ 9.560 PR-310A
“ 9.668 PR-303

Outstanding info!! That just saved me about $150!! Thanks!!

John wrote:This link might prove interesting. http://www.camshafteng.com.au/fail.htm Read just below the Bullet Major lobe tip wear, major follower wear on isolated lobes only:- Be sure to look at the photo of the lifter bottom.
Check out the home page and you will find it interesting too.

Check out this link to cam lobe tip failure photos. http://www.sacskyranch.com/camshaft.htm

John

Read the second link - the procedure to check the oil filter for cam lobe filings because oil analysis won't find them . . .

It seems rinsing out the filter media after it's cut open will allow using a magnet to find filings from the cam lobe. I know you can get filter cutters for a price to do this - but is may be easier to install a Oberg type screen, or other replaceable element to trap them and discover a bad lobe earlier. An easier location for filter changing wouldn't hurt, either.

The table on spring rates is also very helpful. I think I see a combination of performance parts that don't work well together - HV pump, out of spec spring rates, and inexpensive lifters on small lobes. I'm curious as to the spring rates on factory Magnum engine valve springs now, as they were recently mentioned as a possible option, and were also beehive pattern like stock, IIRC.