High Comp 4.6 Torque Monster

[mpgMike]

Started building this several years ago in New Jersey. Finished the build, but moved to Oklahoma before installing it. Good thing, too. The white '95 ZJ died of rust, transfer case & fuel pump failures. Replaced it with a red '95 from Missouri; some rust, but not structural. It now sports the new Stroker.

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The block is a '96 with the locator dowels in the block for the head, and the main girdle.

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Crank is brand new from Clegg's, with the forged 10.8 CC pistons. Cam is Comp Cams Rock Crawler: Intake lift 0.460", duration 250*; Exhaust lift 0.476", duration 256*; Overlap 26*. Cylinder head is a 2004 TUPY. I did a mild porting on the exhaust ports, mild port and Powre Lynz on the intake ports, Powre Ringz on the valves, and 3-angle seats. Combustion chambers were radically radiused, and Somender Singh Grooves were added. It was milled just enough to make it flat. Chamber volume is 60 CCs.

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Painted the block & head Ford Blue, because it matches my company's logo. I powder coated brackets and the valve cover.

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[mpgMike]

Initially I used the stock intake. I acquired a newer "horseshoe" version, which I blasted & powder coated. It features the Powre Lynz in the intake ports from the injector bosses towards the port.

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In order to use the newer intake manifold, I had to do something with the power steering bracket. The '96+ spins the water pump in the opposite direction. I acquired a '96+ PS pump bracket, which I powder coated. Decided to get it to work with everything else stock. The factory bracket has a tensioner pulley designed to run off the back of the belt. I found a Gates 38082 grooved pulley that lets me run it on the inside of the belt. A longer belt was needed; Gates K060990 was used, but it could stand to be a bit shorter. The stock pulley was pulled up. I needed it to pull down, which required a new bolt fed up through the bottom (had to drill the hole bigger).

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While doing the intake swap, I did a header wrap on the factory exhaust manifold. I've heard of injectors #3 & 4 failing from heat. Plus, with a 10.2:1 compression ratio, I had been getting detonation/pinging. The exhaust wrap made an extremely noticeable difference on pinging.

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[mpgMike]

Here are the parts I used for the intake swap:

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Vacuum ports are different between the manifolds. The old one used 1/4" NPT ports for screw-in nipples. The new one only had two 1/4" NPT ports, and 4 permanent nipples. Power brake was obvious. The IAT moved into one of the screw ports. I used the other for CCV/PCV. Had to get creative for the MAP sensor. One hose fits the port on the MAP, a bigger hose fits the port on the manifold. The 2 hoses fit snugly together.

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I added a catch can. The CCV/PCV uses 2 different barbed nipples; the one with the small orifice usually goes in the rear grommet. I swapped them. Also, there is a power brake booster check valve on the front one. The idea is to put manifold vacuum on the crankcase. Want to make more power? You can build more pressure on the top of the piston, or reduce pressure on the bottom; both work. Also, over time, vacuum on the crankcase will slow vacuum leaks. Instead of leaking oil out, it sucks minute amounts of air in. That silver canister inline on the front tube is a Smart Emissions Reducer (fractures and ionizes the crankcase gasses, making them more combustible).

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This is the short version of the build and integration. I have about 600 miles on the engine so far and am quite happy with the results. Very little throttle and it lunges forward. It pulls from just off idle to about 3500 RPM. By 3800 RPM it's done. This is what I was wanting -- incredible low-end torque for towing, and excellent fuel economy (which I am still working on).

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[mpgMike]

I have a more detailed build thread on the JeepForum; "High Fuel Economy Stroker Build" (https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/high- ... d.4467732/), with details of mods and upgrades to the rest of the vehicle; "Time to Trade In" (https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/time- ... n.4480984/).

[mpgMike]

Correction:

The belt I originally bought was the above-mentioned Gates K060990, which ended up too short. I remeasured and the tape measure still said it should work. I ordered a Gates K061031, which is on it now. That's the one that could be slightly shorter and work a tad better.

[mpgMike]

I have almost 2k miles on the new engine now. To do over, the one thing I would certainly change is my choice of piston rings. I opted for the "upgrade" Chrome rings. I wish I would have used the Molly rings instead. At <2k miles it still uses too much oil. There are no external leaks. I can see oil on the spark plugs. The chrome rings just aren't seating yet.

[mpgMike]

Due to the 10.2:1 CR, it would ping even on 91 octane fuel -- the highest I can find around here. I bought a rusEFI UAEFI stand-alone controller.

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Step 1 is to control ignition timing. Initially I built a custom LS coil bracket and used the 6 UAEFI ignition logic outputs for Smart Coils. It burned up the 3.3-to-5 volt translator chip.

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I replaced the surface mount part and it worked again -- for less than an hour. I wound up damaging the PCB trying to replace it a 2nd time. Fast forward a couple months, I bought a replacement (for around $200 US) and modified it to drive a single Dumb Coil -- the stock Jeep coil. It's been running for a couple weeks now. Initially I worked on populating the Ignition Table by driving it. As temperatures changed, it became obvious I needed IAT/CTS Compensation. I had to modify the board again to allow use of the stock PCM temp sensor pull-up resistors. Not accurate, but better than nothing. Still not what I call good. Added a knock sensor from a 2012 Dodge 3.6 engine, mounted to a coil pack boss between cylinders 5 and 6. The rusEFI has a dedicated input just for knock sensor.

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I turned off all authority to the sensor, but activated it for monitoring. I tweaked a few timing cells, then adjusted the knock settings: sensitivity, how much timing retard is allowed, how aggressively it retards, and recovery rate. I'm fairly happy with that first outing. The other 2 things I want to control with the rusEFI is fuel injectors and IAC. I realize sometimes it becomes necessary to swap back to stock temporarily, so I added a connector for the 6 injector wires, and one for the IAC circuit. This is 3 connectors for each circuit: from the factory PCM, to the injectors/IAC, and from the rusEFI. Simply unplug the factory PCM and plug in the rusEFI.

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Initially I want to get it running on the custom fuel table using the stock NB O2, but then swap over to a Bosch 4.9 LSU Wide Band O2. I ran the wires to where the Bosch connector will be installed.

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I want to do another 5-gas emissions test before starting fuel tuning, but while I had everything apart I swapped the stock PCM for one I replaced the electrolytic caps on. Even has the same part number. I will need a couple of thermal cycles for the LTFT% to stabilize before emissions testing.

[mpgMike]

Swapped injector control from the factory PCM to the rusEFI using the connectors previously installed. Fought with it for awhile and couldn't even get it to start. Broke out the shop scope and was able to get idle IPW pretty close to stock. Now it would start! Pulled it into gear and it died. The NB O2 just went out of range; no help whatsoever! So...

It took awhile to get the Bosch LSU 4.9 WB O2 properly configured in Tuner Studio, but I succeeded. Tuned all of the fuel cells I could reach from in the garage; idle, in gear, light throttle, heavier throttle... I quit because my laptop battery got low, and I could start to smell the cat overheating. Maybe tomorrow I'll take it down some local back roads and get low-load cells tuned. PROGRESS!

[mpgMike]

Built a custom set of Jacobs solid core 8mm ignition wires for the LS coils. To use solid core wires on a computerized vehicle you need an RF ring. In the pictures, it is a ferrite ring located close to the coil, around the secondary wire.

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