Which batch of parts should I use

[BillyC]

have been gathering things to build a stroker for several ( over 20 years ) and so now I have batches of parts. Yesterday I picked up a fully machined block and balance assembly and so now I have several directions I can go, which is confusing. ( I have all of these parts )I originally owned 2 jeeps and planned to do two builds.



Here are the parts I picked up. The guy was building a stroker for a 69 Rambler that was to be Turbo charged.



Block 1997 NVH, fully machined .030 over, decked for zero, line bored with main studs

Pistons AutoTEC Bore 3.905, CD 1.380, INV Dome -36.5 CC Pressed Pins

Rods Appear to be SCAT forged

Crank is a 4Counter Weight Short Snout

Rings Total Seal Gapless

Assembly was balanced



This will be going in a 1988 YJ with a 999 Automatic and Replacing a 4.2 with a 4.0 head and efi system. ( And V-BELTS )



I have 2 Heads that I have had done in Indianapolis. One my be ruined since the bag was cut that it has been stored in and it has rust on it. I was thinking that I might take this head and see if it can be milled and saved. It was ported and polished and had the Mopar performance oversized valves and springs installed.



Using the compression calculator on the strokers site I see 8.2 about for the compression ratio, which is about the same as a 4.2 Stock.



If the head can be saved and milled .060 would this be a decent build since the block is set up for this combination ? Also what cam would you recommend ?



My second option

Use the block from above



Pistons Ross Net Dia 3.90, CH 1.365, Pin .912 ( Full Float ) Dome CC -26

Rods Eagle H Beam 6.150

Crank HW 12 Counter Weight, Long Snout Casting 3214723

Rings Total Seal Classic

This assembly was spin balanced with weight added to the crank



Head

Indy Cylinder Head reworked, ported polished with Mopar oversize valves & Springs checked for a .486 lift cam

Rockers (Mopar) Aluminum fully adjustable ( I heard there are no good ?)

[BillyC]

CAM

LAZER Custom Grind 255/255 with 205/205 at .050 Lobe lift .290/.290 gross lift .464/.464 Lobe Separation 108 Degrees Centerline 104 Degrees. Built on a wide lobe blank



If the block would need to be touched up for this assembly I actually own a torque plate I purchased from Clifford when they did not need it. It was for a 258 but gas been opened up to do a 4.0 bore size.



Option 3



H802CP 030 Pistons mounted on 4.2 Rods ( Reconditioned / shot peened and ARP Bolts )

HW 12 Counter Weight Crank, Long Snout

Assembly Spin Balanced with weight added to or taken from crankshaft

Rings Sealed Power



CAM

Lazer Custom Grind 260/267 and 210/215 at .050, lobe lift .298/.275, gross lift .477/.440 Lobe Center Separation 112 Centerline 108





Any recommendations on which way to go ? I am using the Mopar harmonic balancer for a front trigger on the EFI setup.

[Cheromaniac]

I like option 2.
Option 1 yields a CR that's too low for decent performance, and option 3 uses the shorter 4.2 rods which yields a quench height that's too high for detonation resistance.