Basic Stroker project started
- Killman
- Learning to use the board
- Posts: 30
- Joined: February 15th, 2008, 1:08 pm
- Stroker Displacement: 4,6
- Vehicle Year: 1993
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Helsinki, Finland
Basic Stroker project started
This weekend I started my long planned stroker project. My rig is XJ -93 with AW4 and NP242. Initially I was forced to pull my engine out due to possible flexplate problem and I decided to go on with stroking at the same time.
Day 1. Stripped all connections, oil/fuel lines, drive shafts, starter, alternator, fans, radiator etc to be ready to lift engine out. Plan was to separate motor and AW4 before lifting, but obviously I did not have proper socket for upper 12-point (???) bolt heads of trans motor joint. My 10mm 12-point socket was close, but it lost a grip and now the only way is pull motor, trans and transfer case out in one packet. This I must leave to next weekend, I can work only weekends due to my work.
Does someone know what is the proper socket size for those upper bolts?
Day 2. I had to spend day 2 with donor to get the rods and second choice crank to machinist shop next week. Pulled donor 4.2 in parts. Now I have two options: to use the donor 4 weight crank or 12 weight where I have problems to find correct journal dimension for rod journals. viewtopic.php?f=15&t=139&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=15 . Most propably I go with 4 weight, I do not expect big difference in driveability since I have AW4.
Next weekend lI will lift motor out and dismantle motor to be abe to take block to machinist shop to judge what must be done for cylinder bores. That defines finally displacement of my project. Then I can complete also my shopping list, still to get are pistons with wrist pins, oil pump, injectors, all bearings and some gaskets.
Picts I will post later when there is something interesting to take pictures!
Day 1. Stripped all connections, oil/fuel lines, drive shafts, starter, alternator, fans, radiator etc to be ready to lift engine out. Plan was to separate motor and AW4 before lifting, but obviously I did not have proper socket for upper 12-point (???) bolt heads of trans motor joint. My 10mm 12-point socket was close, but it lost a grip and now the only way is pull motor, trans and transfer case out in one packet. This I must leave to next weekend, I can work only weekends due to my work.
Does someone know what is the proper socket size for those upper bolts?
Day 2. I had to spend day 2 with donor to get the rods and second choice crank to machinist shop next week. Pulled donor 4.2 in parts. Now I have two options: to use the donor 4 weight crank or 12 weight where I have problems to find correct journal dimension for rod journals. viewtopic.php?f=15&t=139&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=15 . Most propably I go with 4 weight, I do not expect big difference in driveability since I have AW4.
Next weekend lI will lift motor out and dismantle motor to be abe to take block to machinist shop to judge what must be done for cylinder bores. That defines finally displacement of my project. Then I can complete also my shopping list, still to get are pistons with wrist pins, oil pump, injectors, all bearings and some gaskets.
Picts I will post later when there is something interesting to take pictures!
- FrankZ
- Making Progress
- Posts: 93
- Joined: April 3rd, 2008, 6:44 am
- Stroker Displacement: 4.6l
Re: Basic Stroker project started
E12 I believe, reverse torx heads. I bought a cheap set at Advanced Auto for around $10-15 IIRC.
- Killman
- Learning to use the board
- Posts: 30
- Joined: February 15th, 2008, 1:08 pm
- Stroker Displacement: 4,6
- Vehicle Year: 1993
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Helsinki, Finland
Re: Basic Stroker project started
Thanks FrankZ, I'll get that in my toolbox.
- seanyb505
- Donator
- Posts: 447
- Joined: February 16th, 2008, 9:34 am
- Stroker Displacement: 280ci
- Vehicle Year: 1997
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: West Palm Beach Florida
Re: Basic Stroker project started
Yeah they gave me some trouble when I changed my transmission the other day. I think I used a 3/8 12 pt wrench, but I think they might be too boogered to do it again.
Now I can be like all those other awesome people with more than one Jeep in their sig, but now I have to say one of them is sold:(
97 XJ 4.6
90 MJ 4.0 - sold
I want to have as many Jeeps as children. DD, offroader, drag MJ and another one. 4=4
97 XJ 4.6
90 MJ 4.0 - sold
I want to have as many Jeeps as children. DD, offroader, drag MJ and another one. 4=4
- Killman
- Learning to use the board
- Posts: 30
- Joined: February 15th, 2008, 1:08 pm
- Stroker Displacement: 4,6
- Vehicle Year: 1993
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Helsinki, Finland
Re: Basic Stroker project started
Day 3-4
Final steps to lift motor out. After bolting brand new motor hoist together it was time to start.
Due to last weekends trouble with E12 torx heads motor, transmission and transfer case had to come out in one lift. This did not happen without problems, though.
Ready to go, transmission dropped on jack.
And hoist fixed to motor.
Tight fit, mainly because hoist started to pull forward when it was lifted to maximum. Distance between lifting hook and upright is gettin smaller as you lift. This I had to learn hard way. I had to lower it back down and adjust lifting hook.
Hoist did not lift enough, so we got little more space by inflating tyres.
All well, motor ready for washing.
And when transmission and motor was finally separated the reason why I started this project now was clear, broken flex plate. This type of fracture is visible only after dismantling ands washing flexplate. Symtom is irregular loud knocking sound which dissappears when you shift to D or R e.g. there is moment over flexplate.
Then motor was ready in stand ready to take in parts.
I am going to port the head, but it is not much to be removed. Polishing work still, removing dents and other normal issues.
There were also casualties as in every battle:
- Motor ground strap was not removed so it broke. This however was lucky mistake, strap prevented before giving up H-balancer from embedding itself to AC radiator! At that moment I knew that it was still fixed but I figured better not to open it at that point.
- Temperature sender broke when I turned dismantled head around and forgot to remove it.
- I was not able to remove oil dipstick tube holder, and while trying to remove I cut the tube.
Now block is empty and clean to take it to machinist shop tomorrow for refreshing cylinder bores. When I know required new bore diameter I will order pistons. I will use standard piston where wrist pin height is a little lower than e.g. 667P piston. My static CR will be with 0.02 over bore and 0.045 head gasket around 9.88 and dynamic with Compcam 68-232-4 around 7,85:1 (calculated with advertised ABDC 50deg).
Comments and proposals most wellcome!
Edit:
One more thing, your opinion please. I measured gap in compressed valve springs and they measured around 0.1 in for intake and 0.17 for exhaust. Do you think OEM springs will work with new cam with 0,036 higher intake lift and exhaust 0,052 respectively. What is OEM rocker ratio?
Final steps to lift motor out. After bolting brand new motor hoist together it was time to start.
Due to last weekends trouble with E12 torx heads motor, transmission and transfer case had to come out in one lift. This did not happen without problems, though.
Ready to go, transmission dropped on jack.
And hoist fixed to motor.
Tight fit, mainly because hoist started to pull forward when it was lifted to maximum. Distance between lifting hook and upright is gettin smaller as you lift. This I had to learn hard way. I had to lower it back down and adjust lifting hook.
Hoist did not lift enough, so we got little more space by inflating tyres.
All well, motor ready for washing.
And when transmission and motor was finally separated the reason why I started this project now was clear, broken flex plate. This type of fracture is visible only after dismantling ands washing flexplate. Symtom is irregular loud knocking sound which dissappears when you shift to D or R e.g. there is moment over flexplate.
Then motor was ready in stand ready to take in parts.
I am going to port the head, but it is not much to be removed. Polishing work still, removing dents and other normal issues.
There were also casualties as in every battle:
- Motor ground strap was not removed so it broke. This however was lucky mistake, strap prevented before giving up H-balancer from embedding itself to AC radiator! At that moment I knew that it was still fixed but I figured better not to open it at that point.
- Temperature sender broke when I turned dismantled head around and forgot to remove it.
- I was not able to remove oil dipstick tube holder, and while trying to remove I cut the tube.
Now block is empty and clean to take it to machinist shop tomorrow for refreshing cylinder bores. When I know required new bore diameter I will order pistons. I will use standard piston where wrist pin height is a little lower than e.g. 667P piston. My static CR will be with 0.02 over bore and 0.045 head gasket around 9.88 and dynamic with Compcam 68-232-4 around 7,85:1 (calculated with advertised ABDC 50deg).
Comments and proposals most wellcome!
Edit:
One more thing, your opinion please. I measured gap in compressed valve springs and they measured around 0.1 in for intake and 0.17 for exhaust. Do you think OEM springs will work with new cam with 0,036 higher intake lift and exhaust 0,052 respectively. What is OEM rocker ratio?
- gradon
- Donator
- Posts: 1353
- Joined: February 13th, 2008, 5:33 pm
- Stroker Displacement: 4.6/280ci
- Vehicle Year: 1996
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: DC
Re: Basic Stroker project started
That's why I wasn't sure if I should take the block to my machinist before I bought the pistons, so I wouldn't order the +.020" pistons when the bores might need to be +.030" to clean up. It was an excellent running 122K 94 engine, so I doubt it--I could probably get away with a light-hone and re-ring for a 4.5l, but I kinda like the idea of a "square" bore&stroke and want some nicer pistons anyhow.
- John
- I love JeepStrokers.com!!
- Posts: 709
- Joined: February 13th, 2008, 8:35 pm
- Stroker Displacement: 4.6
- Location: West Virginia
Re: Basic Stroker project started
OEM rocker ratio is 1.6.
John
John
- Killman
- Learning to use the board
- Posts: 30
- Joined: February 15th, 2008, 1:08 pm
- Stroker Displacement: 4,6
- Vehicle Year: 1993
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Helsinki, Finland
Re: Basic Stroker project started
I have tried to find pistons with wrist pin but seems to be difficult. Summit has 667CP but delivery 11 May.
Can anyone advice net shop selling 0.03 over size standard piston with 13 cc dish or 667CP with 17,5 dish? Or any other suitable 0.03 over pistons? Delivery to Finland or to Fort Lauderdale to my friend. Payment by paypal or major credit card.
Can anyone advice net shop selling 0.03 over size standard piston with 13 cc dish or 667CP with 17,5 dish? Or any other suitable 0.03 over pistons? Delivery to Finland or to Fort Lauderdale to my friend. Payment by paypal or major credit card.
- seanyb505
- Donator
- Posts: 447
- Joined: February 16th, 2008, 9:34 am
- Stroker Displacement: 280ci
- Vehicle Year: 1997
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: West Palm Beach Florida
Re: Basic Stroker project started
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... &N=700+115 Not sure what the dish is, but I know you can dish them out a lot if needed.
Now I can be like all those other awesome people with more than one Jeep in their sig, but now I have to say one of them is sold:(
97 XJ 4.6
90 MJ 4.0 - sold
I want to have as many Jeeps as children. DD, offroader, drag MJ and another one. 4=4
97 XJ 4.6
90 MJ 4.0 - sold
I want to have as many Jeeps as children. DD, offroader, drag MJ and another one. 4=4
- John
- I love JeepStrokers.com!!
- Posts: 709
- Joined: February 13th, 2008, 8:35 pm
- Stroker Displacement: 4.6
- Location: West Virginia
Re: Basic Stroker project started
Good advice. That one is a classic builders delight.seanyb505 wrote:http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... &N=700+115 Not sure what the dish is, but I know you can dish them out a lot if needed.
John
- Killman
- Learning to use the board
- Posts: 30
- Joined: February 15th, 2008, 1:08 pm
- Stroker Displacement: 4,6
- Vehicle Year: 1993
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Helsinki, Finland
Re: Basic Stroker project started
Day 5
Since I have not succeeded to purchase pistons yet everything is waiting. Machinist wants to have pistons available quite rightly to confirm new cylinder bore dia.
I decided to make little polishing to ports just to do something. After removing valves I inserted old gasket to see the porting situation.
WTF??? Intake manifold did not match head at all. In below picture you can see how in lower part (in picture upper) intake manifold is exactly at the edge of gasket, sure some air leak has been there all these years I ‘v had this car. In fact this gaket matches to cylinder head.
This is how head looks with intake manifold matching gasket. It covers lower part of port by that measured 7 mm / 0.3 in .
I took pictures also from manifold side. This is old gasket “matching”. Also you can see how lower edge of manifold port is far beyond the edge of head port, I measured at least 7 mm / 0.3 in offset.
And below is new, matching gasket. Manifold and head intake ports are really different size. In head opening is much higher but widt is matching.e.g.
Now, question is which cylinder head I have? I guess intake manifold is original -93 HO model. In head casting is numbers 2886.
However, at the moment I am going to go with these components I have, just make them matching with new gasket as well as possible.
Any quess what components I have and proposals how to proceed?
Since I have not succeeded to purchase pistons yet everything is waiting. Machinist wants to have pistons available quite rightly to confirm new cylinder bore dia.
I decided to make little polishing to ports just to do something. After removing valves I inserted old gasket to see the porting situation.
WTF??? Intake manifold did not match head at all. In below picture you can see how in lower part (in picture upper) intake manifold is exactly at the edge of gasket, sure some air leak has been there all these years I ‘v had this car. In fact this gaket matches to cylinder head.
This is how head looks with intake manifold matching gasket. It covers lower part of port by that measured 7 mm / 0.3 in .
I took pictures also from manifold side. This is old gasket “matching”. Also you can see how lower edge of manifold port is far beyond the edge of head port, I measured at least 7 mm / 0.3 in offset.
And below is new, matching gasket. Manifold and head intake ports are really different size. In head opening is much higher but widt is matching.e.g.
Now, question is which cylinder head I have? I guess intake manifold is original -93 HO model. In head casting is numbers 2886.
However, at the moment I am going to go with these components I have, just make them matching with new gasket as well as possible.
Any quess what components I have and proposals how to proceed?
- gradon
- Donator
- Posts: 1353
- Joined: February 13th, 2008, 5:33 pm
- Stroker Displacement: 4.6/280ci
- Vehicle Year: 1996
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: DC
Re: Basic Stroker project started
That 2686 head is a renix era(87-90) and nothing like the 94 I have(esp. the intake ports), which should be the same 7120 casting. I might be able to get a set of the h802cp30s, h825cp30s, or 677cp30s w/ pins(do you need rings too?) and would definitely want to use paypal and send them to your buddy in Florida. Price would be $200-250 before s&h.
- Killman
- Learning to use the board
- Posts: 30
- Joined: February 15th, 2008, 1:08 pm
- Stroker Displacement: 4,6
- Vehicle Year: 1993
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Helsinki, Finland
Re: Basic Stroker project started
Thanks gradon, my friend will check first one local shop to get original pistons which I prefer because of pin height. Yes, I need whole package, pistons, wrist pins and rings.
Has anyone idea of combustion chamber volume compared to HO head?
Has anyone idea of combustion chamber volume compared to HO head?
- Killman
- Learning to use the board
- Posts: 30
- Joined: February 15th, 2008, 1:08 pm
- Stroker Displacement: 4,6
- Vehicle Year: 1993
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Helsinki, Finland
Re: Basic Stroker project started
Day 6
Just to do something I started to lap valves (correct term??) today. It was pretty straight forward thing to do and I did not get mentally overloaded. However, my Saturdays finding with problem with HO intake manifold and Renix head did keep me busy thinking what the f*** to do? So what, I think that because the motor was pulling nicely before and did not leave me in trouble during number of competitions within three-four years, intake-head mismatch must have worked at least somehow. So, I port it as well as possible and see next few years with this set up. And I don’t tell my friends a darn thing about it. They do not need to know, until I prove it is a decent match.
Meantime, I received duly from local customs my 24# Ford bluetops purchased from ebay and my trusted friend in Fort Lauderdale wired me good news that all except pistons are ordered from different stores.
Now I must focus on launching my yacht back into her proper element after wintering onshore. Below image of my other hobby apart my Jeep and offroad competitions.
Preparing her for the season will take rest of the month, but on the other hand, I do not have parts for my motor yet.
Comments / proposals still most welcome.
Just to do something I started to lap valves (correct term??) today. It was pretty straight forward thing to do and I did not get mentally overloaded. However, my Saturdays finding with problem with HO intake manifold and Renix head did keep me busy thinking what the f*** to do? So what, I think that because the motor was pulling nicely before and did not leave me in trouble during number of competitions within three-four years, intake-head mismatch must have worked at least somehow. So, I port it as well as possible and see next few years with this set up. And I don’t tell my friends a darn thing about it. They do not need to know, until I prove it is a decent match.
Meantime, I received duly from local customs my 24# Ford bluetops purchased from ebay and my trusted friend in Fort Lauderdale wired me good news that all except pistons are ordered from different stores.
Now I must focus on launching my yacht back into her proper element after wintering onshore. Below image of my other hobby apart my Jeep and offroad competitions.
Preparing her for the season will take rest of the month, but on the other hand, I do not have parts for my motor yet.
Comments / proposals still most welcome.
- Shark
- Consistent
- Posts: 268
- Joined: February 14th, 2008, 8:51 pm
- Location: Tampa Bay
Re: Basic Stroker project started
i would get a 7120 head especially if you arent getting and head work done. its a higher flowing head. you can get one out of any '91 - '95 4.0 XJ. grab one from the junkyard and have it checked for cracks and resurfaced.
'91 MJ 4.0 ax15 Resto-mod street truck project, stroker candidate
'93 XJ 2door 4.0 aw4 np231 7" lift 33's
'95 XJ 4door 4.0 aw4 2" 31's
'95 XJ 4door 4.0 aw4 np231 4" lift 31's RIP
'93 XJ 2door 4.0 aw4 np231 7" lift 33's
'95 XJ 4door 4.0 aw4 2" 31's
'95 XJ 4door 4.0 aw4 np231 4" lift 31's RIP
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