aluminium head

[SilverXJ]

Sounds like they are mopar rockers... but I have seen Hesco with harland sharp roller rockers in a different color. Is the top of the rocker flat or curved? Really, the only way to figure your pushrod length is bolt the head on after you mill it (if you do) and then measure.

[SilverXJ]

I also forgot that if your serpentine belt goes in front of the t-stat housing you will also need Hesco's t-stat housing. http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=det ... 239&catId= However, if you need I have one that I will sell you.

[Flash]

The reason the aka manufacture want you to shave the head is that an alu head pulls heat out of the combustion chamber a lot more then cast.

Simple answer, you need 1 more point of compression with alum head then cast to make the same power(all other being equal )

Example, A stroke has a hard time not pinging with 9.5:1 compression. With the alu head, on that same stroker the compression would have to be raised to 10.5:1 to be in the same ball part of comparing apples to apples.

If your going to us this on you stroker..........I hate to say it,.........but you might be better off letting it collect dust on you shelf until your stroker is ready for it.

[SilverXJ]

If your going to us this on you stroker..........I hate to say it,.........but you might be better off letting it collect dust on you shelf until your stroker is ready for it.

Thats what I am thinking. If you are sure that there is a stroker in your future don't modify the head to work on your 4.0L. Oil it up and let it sit on the shelf until you build a stroker. Then modify it to work on the stroker. Thats a pricey piece to not be able to use it down the line.

[crustodd]

If you decide not to use it, do you wanna sell it?

[grim jeeper]

can any one tell me how much to shave off? you guys seem to have lots of specs which are not so easy to find over here so maybe some one could do the math for me.

[Muad'Dib]

We cant tell you how much to shave off.. cause honestly it sounds as if you dont event really know many cc's that thing is.

If it were me i would first figure out how many cc's i would like to end up with (Using the compression ratio calculator on this site). Then with that information, i would measure the combustion chamber volume.
The Cheep Jeep build shows how to do this pretty easily. Your going to want to watch video # 6 @ 7:30 if you dont want to watch the whole thing:

http://www.jeepstrokers.com/cheepjeep/

Then you will have your target cc spec, and your current head cc spec. From there you can tell your machinist how much to shave off to get your desired cc spec. For every .010 you shave, you lose 1.4cc's from the chambers.

[grim jeeper]

ok guys the head has 58cc engraved on hesco say i need 47cc for it to run on the 4.0, it was a very expensive stroker build which left a very very nasty taste in my mouth, the stroker never failed catastrophically (well not the last time anyway) i have all the parts just need a new block properly machined, BUT big but!!! i dont know if i will ever get the taste outa my mouth enough to start again with the stroker, and the parts by the time we get them here cost more than twice what you guys pay, so i am just trying to salvage something from the mess to stop my wallet crying every time i walk past the engine in my garage, hope you understand my winging a bit better now, all the parts except the block were supplied by hesco through a uk dealer the block was supplyed by the uk guy,who i am unable to disscuss or deal with (get the picture)it was also built to run an avenger sc wich i assume is why the compression rate is lower than standard. the sc never got fitted coz the darn thing didnt run long enough ,(10,000miles four rebuilds)peoples loyalty is stopping me getting specs parts or advice cant say any more than that.thanx again guys for your help nice to know some people are still about the passion and not just the bucks!!!!!!!

[gradon]

I've read that before about needing the compression to be 1pt higher to get the same power due to the heat(energy) it removes. So if I were using that head on a NA stroker, I'd use a piston with the smallest dish(along the lines of a kb945), zero deck(means you still gotta remove .030" from block), a low overlap cam, thinnest HG(.044") and then have the comp be ~11:1scr, 9:1dcr. I agree with not using the head on the 4.0 if you're gonna be stroking, cause you'll lose power unless you deck it .075"(which won't be good for the stroker). Oh aluminum head drama. . .

[Flash]

OK, if you don't want too "moth ball" the alum head, hers an idea that won't damage the head for the stroker, but still allow you to us in on the 4.0L.
I just did it real quick on the stroker calculator above. But,... if you bought a custom "4.0L" piston that was a flat top(or maybe just a vary small dish) then had the deck shaved .021" it would raise you compression close to 10.5:1.

Then if/when you decide to build you stroker, it will still have the stock cc that the stroker will like!

Actually, if you building a custom piston, then you can take up the .0215" that the stock piston sets below the deck with the custom piston.(Have custom piston make to create (0") piston deck height)