Introduction and Stroker project

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bgmiller
Posts: 8
Joined: May 25th, 2015, 12:39 am
Vehicle Year: 1997
Vehicle Make: Jeep
Vehicle Model: Wrangler
Location: El Paso, TX 79938

Introduction and Stroker project

Post by bgmiller »

Hi Everyone,

I have a 1997 Jeep Wrangler (TJ) Sport with AX-15 and no AC. Here is our story. I was in the Navy station at Naval Air Weapons Station Patuxtent River MD and I had orders to the Pacific Missile Range Facility on Kauai HI. I had a 1970 Plymouth Fury III, 318 4 door avocado green. I got this cheap and it ran pretty good although I bent the frame when I hit a cement planter in a parking lot goofing off and I could not get aligned without spending 3 times what I paid for it to fix it. I sold it cheap to a buddy and bought my jeep in July 1996. I drove the Jeep to Jacksonville Fl for training and then to Alameda CA to put it on a cargo ship for it's voyage to Kauai, HI.

When I got to Kauai I put tube bumps on the front and rear and tube nerf bars. While driving on the beach on day I drove over what I thought was just some little plants they turned out to be Kiawe, Hawaiian Mesquite, and put holes in all 4 tires. I got new 31x10.5x15 BFG MT tires. I drove all over the beaches in on the trails in the mountains. I then got orders to Naval Air Station Sigonella Sicily Italy. My passenger side mirror paint was flaking off and it was replaced under warranty. 3 rear u-joints went out and they were replaced under warranty

I shipped the TJ from Kauai to Sicily, my next duty station. In Sicily I shredded my spider gears and replaced them with a Lock-Rite, lunch box locker. I also put on a Rock-It short ram intake and Air Raid throttle body spacer. I go a code from the PCM that said that my catalytic converter was bad and that was replaced under warranty at 72,000 miles. I drove many of back country roads and driving in the snow on Mt. Etna, active volcano. My a little jeep was one of the tallest, non commercial, vehicles on the road there and the Sicilians made way when my tires reach to the bottom of their Fiat, Lancia, and Alfa Romeo windows . Before I left Sicily I need new tires so I put on a new set of Pirelli Scorpion ATRs.

I shipped the jeep to Long Beach CA due to my transfer to VX-30 at Naval Air Weapons Station Point Mugu CA. There I was subject so smog inspections and identified a crack in the OEM exhaust manifold. I replaced the manifold with a Banks stainless steel unit and also put in a Banks Cat-Back exhaust. My alternator pulley bearings were going out, squealing a little and the pulley looked bent, so I replaced that with a 135 amp unit. There was a recall for the airbag and that was fixed under the recall. I sheared the output shaft of my NP231. I drove in 4wd on the front drive shaft only for about a 2 weeks until I had it replaced with a NP231 from JBConversions with all the HD upgrades and Super Short SYE, my speedo never work right again. When the transfercase was replaced I had the clutch replaced also. Then my rear u-joint went out on so pulled the rear drive shaft and shifted the JBConversions case to 4WD and drove home on the from axle. When I replaced the u-joint I shifted into 2WD but the unit would not disengage the front drive shaft(less than 3 months on the new t-case). I then had orders to Pensacola FL and I didn't have time to have a new t-case sent out so I had to drive cross country, second time cross country, on the front drive shaft.

I drove cross country on I-10 in July was hot, with no AC but It was ok, at least it was dry heat until eastern Texas. The owner of JBConversions had a friend in Ocala FL that fix the t-case, some pin got stuck and some grinding on the internals need to be done to free up the pin. It has worked great since.

I then got order to the USS George Washington, nuclear aircraft carrier, at Naval Base Norfolk VA. On the drive up the year pinion seal went out 3 hours from Norfolk. I pulled the rear drive shaft and dove up in 4WD again. I rebuild the Dana 35C with a Super Yukon kit with a Detroit locker. I also re-geared the axles with 4.10 gears. I saved up a bit and after about a year in VA I had a 6.5" Fabtech Long Arm lift installed by Pungo Off-Road in Virginia Beach VA. They did a terrible job and I do not recommend anyone to go there for anyone looking for jeep experts. They over inflated the new tires to 50 psi, routed the brake lines wrong they rubbed, sold me rims with the wrong back spacing that limited my turing radius because it rubbed on the lower control arms. I put on 35" Wrangler MTs. My transmission started to shift hard, acting like the sycros were bad, my gas gauge stopped working, front side marker lights would work when they felt like it, the heater stopped putting out hot air(warm at best). the water pump went out and I replaced it.

I retired from the Navy in December 2012 and got a job in Roxboro, NC which is about 25 miles north of Durham. The water pump cracked in 18 months and I replaced it again. I flushed and back flushed the heater core with water the second time I replace the water pump and it is working better but not as good as it should, at least it melts ice now. I had the axles regeared to 4.56, replaced ball joints, installed curried HD steering, installed new steering box, replaced all joint in the lift kit. My oil pressure has been dropping to ZERO when I drop below idle like when I start from a stop and that is making me nervous but the pressure returns as soon as the RPMs increase. Now I am living in Kannapolis, NC and working in Mooresville, NC. I was driving up to Norfolk trying to get everything moved down from up there an once I got to Norfolk I had a massive coolant leak it turns out it is from the freeze plug in the back of the head.

This brings me to today. I am having the Ax-15 rebuilt, 3 year warranty, right not and the mechanic said he can put a expandable freeze plug in the head without having to remove the head. Transmission rebuild and clutch replacement is $1600. Freeze plug is $250. Another shop, jeep specialist, said they had to remove the head to replace the freeze plug and that would cost $1000, transmission rebuild (1 yr warranty) and clutch would be $1600-$2000 depending on extent of transmission rebuild.

I figure it is time to do some engine work. I want more power I am tired of having to stay in 4th when going up hills to maintain interstate speeds , 75mph. The oil pressure issue and the inevitable next freeze plug failure is also driving this project. I want to build a stroker what can run on 87. Right now I priced parts from one of the build sheets + approximate machine shop fees + labor to remove and install and I am at nearly $2,900. I have not included the labor to build the engine, have to guess that would be at least $500. Now I am at the price of a prebuild long block which would come with a warranty (excluding shipping). I was I could do this myself but I don't have a garage/shed, cherry picker, or engine stand. Also since I am from California and I just moved to this new area I don't have any buddies around to let me use their garage or muscle. I have never pulled and engine before so I am lacking experience also. I do have most of the tools or can buy them and I am mechanically inclined. In the navy I was and Avation Structural/Hydraulic Mechanic. Since I have to have someone else do all the work I think I should buy a 4.6L or 4.7L long block and have that installed. Budget is a consideration. What are your thoughts.

Thanks,
Brannon
User avatar
Frankenstien
I think I'll order a "tab"
I think I'll order a "tab"
Posts: 46
Joined: November 15th, 2014, 9:14 am
Stroker Displacement: 4.6
Vehicle Year: 1972
Vehicle Make: jeep
Vehicle Model: Cj5

Re: Introduction and Stroker project

Post by Frankenstien »

http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/downl ... &mode=view

For Sale:
4.0 AMC Jeep Engine stroked to 4.7 Liters.

Fully machined and built, it has not been installed or run since being machined, or assembled.
Includes the 1996-97 4.0 block machined to .040" over and deck milled, cam bearings supplied and installed, all stroker clearancing has been done to allow the main girdle to be installed.
The early model crankshaft from the 258 machined and balanced.
late model rods w/ lightening and ARP rod bolts installed
Icon/KB forged pistons # ic944 roughly 9.6:1 compression
moly ring set from Mahle
Comp cams k kit 68-231-4 duration 250 in 358 ex lift .462 in .485 ex with Comp Cams timing chain double row.

Heads are pocket ported and valve sizes are increased to 2.02" and 1.6" 1 piece forged Stainless Chevy style valves with single groove locks and lighter retainers etc... Manley valve springs installed for the camshaft installed.

The rocker arms are the factory non adjustable style rockers w/ adjusting shims used to get the lash set. An extra selection of shim are also supplied [ Crane Cams part for use in the 5.0l Ford engines, works the same here.]

Includes the new Melling oil pump and assembly etc... Ready to drop in and bolt on your accessories intake and exhaust etc...

Originally built for a customer, who last heard was going through a divorce, and the engine was a project for her.... Being sold for balance due on the ticket. 2600.00

Feel free to call with any questions about the engine. It has been here for a couple years... time to get it gone. 702-375-8610 Scott

Buy this it's done and ready plus the costs you will save.

right here in the classifieds for sale
Best!
:D
Frankenstein
bgmiller
Posts: 8
Joined: May 25th, 2015, 12:39 am
Vehicle Year: 1997
Vehicle Make: Jeep
Vehicle Model: Wrangler
Location: El Paso, TX 79938

Re: Introduction and Stroker project

Post by bgmiller »

Frankenstien wrote:http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/downl ... &mode=view

For Sale:
4.0 AMC Jeep Engine stroked to 4.7 Liters.

Fully machined and built, it has not been installed or run since being machined, or assembled.
Includes the 1996-97 4.0 block machined to .040" over and deck milled, cam bearings supplied and installed, all stroker clearancing has been done to allow the main girdle to be installed.
The early model crankshaft from the 258 machined and balanced.
late model rods w/ lightening and ARP rod bolts installed
Icon/KB forged pistons # ic944 roughly 9.6:1 compression
moly ring set from Mahle
Comp cams k kit 68-231-4 duration 250 in 358 ex lift .462 in .485 ex with Comp Cams timing chain double row.

Heads are pocket ported and valve sizes are increased to 2.02" and 1.6" 1 piece forged Stainless Chevy style valves with single groove locks and lighter retainers etc... Manley valve springs installed for the camshaft installed.

The rocker arms are the factory non adjustable style rockers w/ adjusting shims used to get the lash set. An extra selection of shim are also supplied [ Crane Cams part for use in the 5.0l Ford engines, works the same here.]

Includes the new Melling oil pump and assembly etc... Ready to drop in and bolt on your accessories intake and exhaust etc...

Originally built for a customer, who last heard was going through a divorce, and the engine was a project for her.... Being sold for balance due on the ticket. 2600.00

Feel free to call with any questions about the engine. It has been here for a couple years... time to get it gone. 702-375-8610 Scott

Buy this it's done and ready plus the costs you will save.

right here in the classifieds for sale
Best!
:D

Thank you for the reply. My understanding is that the compression raotio is of 9.6:1 is too high to run on 87, If I am wrong please let me know.
User avatar
beater_renix
Making Progress
Making Progress
Posts: 73
Joined: February 24th, 2013, 6:57 pm
Stroker Displacement: 4.6
Vehicle Year: 1989
Vehicle Make: Jeep
Vehicle Model: Cherokee

Re: Introduction and Stroker project

Post by beater_renix »

Unfortunately my stroker experience was anything but college budget friendly. What I did to make it doable; was I stretched it out over four years. That provided me the means to purchase the parts and tools I needed to get the job done. Like you when I started I had never removed an engine before. I bought a used block and engine stand and slowly built form there. If I had to total how much I spent over that time it would easily eclipse the cost of a crate engine or even the $2900 number you quoted. But I payed for it in small increment, that wasn't a shocking to the wife and the kids and the college tuition. Not an option for everyone but it wasn't my daily driver then. Given your circumstance, I'd look hard into a long block crate engine. Once your done with that you'll have a block lying around begging you to build a 5.0L roller blown stroker.
-Awesome Quote...

Beater_Renix
bgmiller
Posts: 8
Joined: May 25th, 2015, 12:39 am
Vehicle Year: 1997
Vehicle Make: Jeep
Vehicle Model: Wrangler
Location: El Paso, TX 79938

Re: Introduction and Stroker project

Post by bgmiller »

I picked up the TJ today from the mechanic after having the AX-15 rebuilt, new clutch, and new front pinion seal installed (it was leaking).

The clutch peddle engagement range is extremely short and is nearly on the floorboard before there is any engagement. Can you think of a reason the new clutch is behaving like this.

Other than the peddle feel the AX-15 feels good.
User avatar
beater_renix
Making Progress
Making Progress
Posts: 73
Joined: February 24th, 2013, 6:57 pm
Stroker Displacement: 4.6
Vehicle Year: 1989
Vehicle Make: Jeep
Vehicle Model: Cherokee

Re: Introduction and Stroker project

Post by beater_renix »

I won't pretend to know much about the Ax-15, but I've owned several cars that had adjustments both in the linkage and in the pedal. Both of which could adjust that. Seems like your mechanic should have adjusted it, since most people prefer a pretty high clutch pedal.
-Awesome Quote...

Beater_Renix
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